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Old 10-24-2010, 12:18 AM
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04 gto cruise control

Trying to diagnose a friends cruise control problems, i had printed off a wiring diagram and ran through some tests and traced it down to the switch not working. Well i got the switch and put it in this weekend but it still doesn't work. Sooo no alldata at home and i threw away the diagrams i had printed off earlier in the week so heres the question. Does anyone have any other ideas or testing i can do? The cruise control activates on the screen. As in it says enabled or disabled but it wont actually run the car. One of the tests i read and performed was to check for power on the (color) wires at the cruise module under the hood as the accelerate or decelerate was activated. So i didn't get power so i kinda jumped to conclusions i guess you could say and went for the switch but it still doesn't work. To me it seems like there wouldn't be power going to the module unless you are going over 35? or does the deactivation for speed or lack there of happen in the module? I would reall y appreciate any help or ideas from you guys, i work as a mechanic but im young and only starting to learn about wiring so i have basic understanding of how to test things just not the experience to really test them very well without diagrams. So anyways hope this isn't too confusing, if so i apologize, i am posting at 1 am lol. Thanks guys

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Old 10-24-2010, 05:34 AM
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My 2005 Chevy Uplanders cruise also conked out.......It comes on occasionally, but only works for a few seconds and quits. The mechanic I talked to also said the switch, but I dont think so......Where is this cruise module you speak of?
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:33 AM
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Its under the hood. Im talking about the electric motor that actually holds the speedometer cable in place when you activate it.But there are several posibilities. There is the multifunction switch. kill switch on the brake of course there is also one on the clutch a relay and a fuse or the module under the hood. My friend told me last night that the car has been wrecked and they had to remove the steering column for some reason? So im thinking that there may be a broken or pinched.
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:35 AM
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But the way you describe it, it does sound like the switch. I had the same problem on my 96 firebird. It would work occassionally. Easytest is to keep fiddling with the switch and see if eventually it comes on, that tells you right there its the switch. Also if you look around on ebay or junkyards for a used switch you will save lots of money
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Old 10-24-2010, 02:19 PM
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Sounds a bit goofy, but check your 3rd brake light bulb and make sure its working. Pontiac used it as a ground path to cancel the cruise and if the bulb was open then the cruise wouldn't engage.
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:25 PM
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I think the 04 is a drive by wire system and there is not a cruise control module, have not been any speedo cable since mid 80s
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blyne3
I think the 04 is a drive by wire system and there is not a cruise control module, have not been any speedo cable since mid 80s
Pretty positive my Uplander is too.......
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:41 PM
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If the uplander was working every now and then and then stopped usually that means its the switch, unless the computer has lock it out for some reason that usually has a check engine light if computer done it.
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:54 PM
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Well i will check the third brake light bulb. As far as the module. This is not a fly by wire system. It has mechanical cables to pull the throttle and it uses an electric motor to operate the cables for the cruise. You are correct in saying that it is not activated by the speedometer cable. it uses an electric speed sensor as most newer vehicles do.
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:33 PM
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I see where i threw the confusion in now. When i said speedometer cable i meant throttle cable....sorry for teh confusion, i seem to do taht a lot
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Old 10-24-2010, 06:30 PM
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Brake light issues will affect CC operations. So will ABS or ECM issues.

However, you dont usually get 'enabled' when this happens. you just get nothing.

A no set complaint usually boils down to a switch, wiring (to include clock spring), or the module.

Since it enables (aka, its seeing the 'ON' switch), the wiring and clockspring are likely fine. Because all switches use the same 2 wires. this is easy to confirm if you get the wiring diagram, and at the module, remove the connector, and connect a DVOM to the 2 switch wires on the 'ohm setting'. hit the buttons. record results.

Again, ABS and ECM issues can cause this as well, so check for codes in those systems.
Take a DVOM set on Ohms across the 2 pins at the connector for the CC motor for the switches. Hit all switches, make sure you get some sort of impedence when switches are pressed. Should normally be Open or 'OL'. could have a bad switch or sticky switch. make sure you use a small paper clip to probe the terminals so as not to damage them. Spread terminals will have you chasing your ***. if one switch wont read, replace switch assy.

While you are in the connector probing, look for corrosion on the pins of the motor and connector. If you find some, better just replace both. You can try cleaning it, and/or just replacing the connector. your mileage will vary on that.

Verify you dont have ABS codes.

There should be a self-test button sequence on the 04's. Run that as well to test the motor its self, and to make sure its getting vehicle speed data.

If its coming on, its not likely a brake/clutch switch, but run those down just to be sure.

The cruise control system is an Electro-motor system, i.e. it uses a stepper motor to control vehicle speed. A throttle relaxer servo is fitted as part of the traction control system to provide engine torque control. The throttle relaxer momentarily reduces the throttle opening angle when traction loss occurs. There is no electronic interface between the throttle relaxer and the cruise control module.

The main components of the Electro-motor cruise control system are:

* Cruise Control Module
* Switch Assembly - Cruise Control
* Brake pedal stop lamp switch (Switch A)
* Brake pedal electrical release switch (Switch B)
* Clutch pedal switch and patch harness (manual transmission models)
* Cruise control cable
* Electrical wiring (incorporated into the main wiring harness)

The cruise control module also uses an output from the powertrain control module (PCM) for vehicle speed, and provides an input to the instrument cluster for cruise control status indication.

When the cruise control module is powered up via the cruise control ON/OFF push-button switch, the cruise control module activates an input to the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster sees this line as active and sends a message to the Multi-function Display (MFD) to turn its CRUISE icon on.
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Old 10-24-2010, 07:37 PM
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So i still don't have a diagram as i don't go back to work until monday. But im sitting here trying to do some testing on the old switch to make sure it was faulty. I have a total of four wires coming from the cruise portion of the multifunction switch. Being that is has three functions, accel, decel, and on/off switch. My guess is one of these wires is a power and the others are for each seperate function. If im thinking right the wires should ohm out? with the power wire when the switch in cordenance is applied? I'm sorry this is all confusing to me but like i said im just learning all the electrical stuff
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Old 10-25-2010, 07:28 PM
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I know I'm not much help and can't exactly remember this particular model but what I remember on the 04 is two separate clutch position switches- one for the starting circuit that detects when the clutch is fully depressed or barely depressed as if you ride the clutch, and another for the cruise control at the top of the pedal travel. Make sure you are testing the right one, and if necessary replacing, the right one.

Unless you have already done the appropriate testing, there is no way to know that the switch is causing your problem without a code.

There are other components involved in the starting circuit that may be at fault including the switch, starter relay, starter, battery, ECM, and wiring.

Look for this code - DTC 0833 - Clutch Pedal Position Sensor, our 04 had a bad one clutch sensor, the internal contacts were filthy, we cleaned and we were on on our way.

Believe it or not; the computer checks the resistance in the taillamp circuit, and if it does not fall in the proper range, such as too high for a burned out bulb or too low for a short, or the wrong bulb period, it will prevent cruise control from enabling to alert the driver that there is a potential problem.

Sensors that can disable Cruise Control:

Brake lights/brake pedal switch/brake pedal position switch
Clutch switch/clutch position switch
ABS Wheel speed sensors and reluctors
OSS (trans speed sensor)
TPS/throttle position sensor
Cruise control actuator and cable/ throttle cable (LS1 only, obviously)
Multi-function (wiper/turn/ cruise) switch
The fuses and wiring for all of the above.

Thats more or less in order of likely hood, as well. Clearly its not the MFS, as if the light on the dash comes on. Its not abs, if you dont have the ABS light. same for OSS, as ABS uses that input too. TPS malfunction usually sets a DTC. That leaves the pedal switches, bulbs , wiring and Actuator if LS1. We replaced all the vx tails bulbs in another with stocks and took care of cruise and t/c.

I had a diagram but cannot locate it at the moment, I'll try to post up something tomorrow..
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Old 10-25-2010, 08:06 PM
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I appreciate all the help man im going to look at it tomorrow, its not my car just a friends so ive just been studying up haven't actually had the chance to look at it again yet. Didn't get to get my diagrams today either, we were busy. Definetly good to be busy this time of year though lol. Anyway you are correct there are two clutch switches. and i havent tested it. what drew me to the switch was the diagnostic aid from all data, but this wouldn't be the first time it was wrong so who knows. I'm definetly going to check the tail lights and go from there. But i'm still confused because i clearly remember the diag from all data saying to check for power at the module under the hood when applying the accel or decel switch. I was not getting any power, it said it should be at least 4 volts if i remember correctly. On the other hand i didn't know if it would actually send voltage since the car isn't moving. The aid did offer a self test for the cruise which i couldn't get to work correctly. Something about holding the on/of button while turning on the key and waiting for it to flash. Whatever it said it would do it didn't is all i remember lol. Like i said i appreciate the help and ill let you know what i find out tomorrow on it.
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Old 10-25-2010, 08:08 PM
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Also he is bringing his car by my shop tomorrow for an alignment so i'll hook up the scanner and do an all systems scan. Maybe that will give me an easy start
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