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Old 11-08-2008, 11:55 AM
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.060 block 350 any problems

I can get a block that is just back from shop that is a 350 .06. will I have any problem with heat or anything else?

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Old 11-08-2008, 01:25 PM
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Shouldn't have any problems!
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Old 11-08-2008, 02:47 PM
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I agree with Mark. There must be thousands of 0.060"-over small block Chevys out there working every day and not giving the owners any grief.

Tom, just so you know....sometimes there is core shift when a block is cast. This results in thin and thick sections of the cylinder walls. If the block is bored far enough to create really thin walls in those already thin areas, then the piston rings skidding up and down the bore will create vibrations that are then transferred to the other side of the cylinder wall into the water jacket. They vibrate the water, separating out little air bubbles that then cling to the cylinder wall on the water jacket side and prevent cooling water from getting to the cast iron to carry away heat. The result is an overheating motor.

Smokey Yunick said in his book Power Secrets that the walls ideally should be at least 0.135" thick in all areas. This amount of meat in the walls will quell the vibrations and prevent the formation of these little air bubbles.

Many engine builders will have the cylinder walls sonic checked for thickness before ever starting on a block. Oftentimes, you can get a clue by looking at the front of the block where the cam bore boss is. If the bore is centered in the boss, there is a good possibility that the cylinder walls will be more uniform than a block in which the cam bore is off-center in the boss. Also look at the core plug holes and see if they are centered in the bosses at the sides of the block. Scroll down here and look at the Rocket Chevy block front view. It may just be the way the camera shot is positioned, but it looks to me like the core plug holes at the outer edges of the block have been bored high in the bosses. It also appears that the cam bore is a little high in its boss. Might just be the camera angle, but I think you understand what I'm saying here.
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DN
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Old 11-08-2008, 03:36 PM
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Sonic testing is the only real way to tell if the cyliders are good, We have quite a few blocks in the shop with pefect core shift but thin cylinders on one side, On the other hand we have seen block with a lot of core and the cylinder wall thickness was fine.

If we could only go by core shift it would have saved me about 1500 dollars on a sonic tester.

I have alway been able to prove that core shift method as being bad advice and we sonic test ALL OEM blocks that go through our shop.

I haave one with perfect core shift but the thrust side of one of the cyliders is only .123 and at .060 over it would only be .093 which is not enough if your building a performace engine.
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Old 11-08-2008, 04:18 PM
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Thank you for the real story. We used to use the core shift method before sonic equipment was even a gleam in the eye of the inventor. Just goes to show you we were just howlin' at the moon.
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Old 11-09-2008, 05:47 AM
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I can sure tell you have never sonic tested a block Further more the wrist pin side of the cylinders are the thinnest part and giving lame advise on going by core shift is just wrong. this is 2008 you have to get with the program here and do things right

Go by core shift WOW

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Old 11-09-2008, 01:23 PM
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I hope they are including the pistons with that block. Otherwise who knows what your sidewall clearance will be and that can lead to all kinds of problems especially on coated pistons and certain keith black pistons that really stress how important piston clearances are.

The best would be if the block was .055 over and then the machine shop could hone it to your piston size.
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Old 11-09-2008, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNC BLOCKS NE
I can sure tell you have never sonic tested a block Further more the wrist pin side of the cylinders are the thinnest part and giving lame advise on going by core shift is just wrong. this is 2008 you have to get with the program here and do things right

Go by core shift WOW
You're being a little too presumptuous in assuming that I've never beeped a block. I came into posession of a tester in 1991 when I was beeping roll cages for NHRA as a chassis cert tech. I used it to beep blocks for myself and buddies until I quit NHRA several years later. At that time, beepers were $2000. Since then, I've relied on the owner of a local shop to do them for me because I don't do enough motors to justify the cost of one.

Had I not brought up the core shift method, someone associated with this young man most certainly would have and he may have taken it as gospel.

You'll notice in my post that I said "used to". That means in the past, before this equipment was available. Right or wrong, it was the way everybody did it then and I don't think you're being quite fair in your assumptions. I guess I am guilty of not making the connection between core shift and beeping the block, but once the equipment was available, I didn't correlate the two as you have.
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