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Old 10-14-2008, 07:15 PM
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1/4 mile opinions on setup ?

Alright, I wanted to discuss if this setup would be good in a 1985 Chevy Silverado 1500 at a quarter mile
The trucks weighs 3890 alomst 4000, the motor is a 383 with a 700 cfm double pumper holley, A edelbrock Rpm manifold, a summit cam with 498-510 lift with 282 292 adv duration, Edelbrock Rpm heads, and Flowtech headers, forged bottom end assembly, stock th 350 tranny with 3.73 gears.
I was wondering if anyone would have a clue to this setups speed and adavantages and disadvantages at a quarter mile. I do not have the forged assembly but thats all I need. Estimates on time and advice welcomed.
I was hoping this it would be around 14-12 seconds, with drag radials
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Old 10-14-2008, 07:44 PM
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15-16 seconds would be a little more realistic.



Larry
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Old 10-14-2008, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldknock
15-16 seconds would be a little more realistic.



Larry
That seems to be a bit on the slow side.
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Old 10-14-2008, 08:18 PM
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Maybe so but it's what I've seen hundreds of times, with engines a lot larger and more potent than his. There's no need to blow smoke up a fellas tailpipe only to have him beating his head against the wall wondering why it isn't as fast as everybody on the interweb said it should be.



Larry
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Old 10-14-2008, 08:22 PM
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a friend of mine was running a very similar setup, you didn't mention what torque converter u were running but the best he ever got out of the truck was a 13.9 with a 2500 stall on a 700r4 which has deeper first gear
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Old 10-14-2008, 09:17 PM
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I'll say hi 14's...if you step up the rear gear to a 4:11 or higher.

Thats a heavy truck and most of the weight is in front, getting her dialed to leave without spinning will be the hard part.
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:19 PM
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assuming 420hp at the crank, 340hp at the wheels. then a 3900 pound truck with 200 driver should run 102mph in the 1/4 mile.

this could be a mid 13 second run with the right gear, stall, limited slip diff, and a good set of tires.

However, start subtracting et because the stall is stock, gear should be 4.11, most likely not a lsd, and tires over a year old get slick. Plus stock trucks don't transfer weight very well. I would guess you will lose over a second of et and 2 mph due to the above mentioned stuff.

I'm guessing 14.7 to 15.0 at 100mph.

You could get that second back if you set the truck up for the 1/4 mile. Like get a lsd, 4.11's, 3000 stall, 28 x 10 inch drag slicks, skinny tires up front, relocate the battery, drag stocks up front, and some kind of bolt on traction modifier for the rear.

Or just power through it with a 125hp shot of N02 and run 13.5 at 111.
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Old 10-15-2008, 02:54 PM
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1/4 Speed

Well I was thinking about A 6 speed tremec with 4.11 gears with a 150 shot of nos with a upgrade to a 750 carb
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Old 10-15-2008, 03:03 PM
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If you've already got a 700 cfm carb I would save the money and not go out and buy a 750, probably won't notice the ET difference.

The 4.10 gears now, there's money well spent.

You may want to look into taking a leaf spring out to soften the rear up so long as you can keep the springs from wrapping with some suspension work - I assume the truck doesn't do any hauling duty. Some weight transfer would work wonders.
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Old 10-15-2008, 03:46 PM
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The problem with a car transmission in a truck is the shifter position and length. If you want an OD, get a gear vender on the end for your trans or maybe use a 200r or 700r trans.

To get weight transfer, lighten up the front and use soft front springs and drag shocks. Making the rear end squat is not weight transfer. The trick is to get the front end to lift and the rear stay level. A car that squats in the rear while the front stays level looks very similar to a front lifting car but has very different weight transfer characteristics. If the back squats at take off, it is not holding the weight of the car, thus not putting down all the load it can on the tires.
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Old 10-15-2008, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 454C10
To get weight transfer, lighten up the front and use soft front springs and drag shocks.
I agree, drag shocks and long/light springs would be the correct way to go although they'd handle poorly on the street.

I notice that the truck owner's age is posted as 15! Removing a leaf might be more along the budget.
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Old 10-16-2008, 07:21 AM
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When I first did a V8 conversion in on old 71 240Z (about 16 or 17 years ago), the rear end would squat like crazy. And lot of wheel spin and some wheel hop. Looked like the car was weight transferring great, since the back was so much lower than the front. But it wasn't, since the front didn't lift and the back was collapsing under the attempt of weight transfer (too soft to hold the weight of the front and back).

I finally realized that squatting in the back looks very similar to lifting the front due the the same relative movement of the car. So, I install very stiff springs and struts in the rear and put back the stock front springs and an old pair of worn out struts up front.

Dropped a 1/2 second in the 60 foot after those mods (2 to 1.5). Hardly any wheel spin with 5000 rpm clutch drops with slicks.

I'm not a drag racing expert but making the rear end soft doesn't seem like the right direction to go in. I understand he is 15, but he might as well try to do go in the right direction. When I was his age I was flying blind and had no input from anyone plus had a fear of library's (bad combo). But, this internet thing makes it so easy for young guys to get information. Therefore, it will put him ahead at least 10 years.

Handling will not be bad. In fact it will help. When a car/truck plows in a turn (understeer) the fix is to soften up the front and stiffen up the rear. And I think a truck typically understeers.

Last edited by 454C10; 10-16-2008 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 10-17-2008, 08:37 AM
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1/4 speeds

Thanks guys for all the advivce,

Would this combination run better,
The same Double pumper but 750 cfm, the same edelbrock rpm manifold, a compcams thumper cam with 530 500 in-ex with 300 adv duration, flowtech headers all on a 383 stroker, with a 150 shot of nos with forged pistons, A 6 speed tremec tranny, with 4.53 gears to improve allitle at the 1/4 mile softer more squattier read rend but not to the point where I understeer. Drag slicks or anything that will stick real hard, a slapstick for faster gear switching,and could someone help me maybe lose 200 500 pounds to the truck if thats possible ?. And would a 6 speed tranny and 4.53 gears still do 80 mph on the highway not overwraping 3000 rpm ?. An deep pan with a high oil volume pump so I can run down the strip with proper lube, Could this maybe run in the 13s 12s now or do I still have to do modifications ?.
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Old 10-17-2008, 08:55 AM
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The t56 is a very high-geared tranny. 4.56s seem like stock gears because if the double OD ending with .50:1. Seriously; 4.56s gears behind a t56 is the same as 2.28 gears behind a TH350 on the highway.

Here is an example for you... I have a 4L60E with 3.08 gears. Final drive ratio is 2.156. I'm swapping for a T56 and 4.10s. Final drive ratio will be 2.05. I will have LOWER highway RPMs with the T56/4.10s than I did from the factory with 3.08s.

Now look at first gear. In the 4L60e/3.08, final first ratio is 9.42. In the T56/4.10 with its tall 2.66 first, it will be 10.91. So, I get a slightly lower first gear with a very similar top gear.

So you see you can't assume anything when changing between trannys. If 4.10s were going to be correct for an automatic tranny, then switching to a t56 will require a LOT more gear than 4.53
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Old 10-17-2008, 09:03 AM
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1/4 Speed

Okay Im a little ingnorant On the numbers side of this so Im not following what would I need to to use 4.53 gears nd have insane times with the setup, or could I build the th 350 with 4. 53 gears and have a reall jumpy truck ? Can you alter the gears in a tranny so that its really good at the 1/4 mile ?
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