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Old 08-30-2009, 12:57 PM
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10 bolt to 12 bolt driveshaft length

Well I am building the 12 bolt right now the car is up on jacks. I was wondering if the driveshaft needs to be shortened? Ive read that it needs to be shortened an inch and Ive read that its the same length so which is it?


Shorter or the same???

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Old 08-30-2009, 04:09 PM
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It would depend on the length of the yoke I would suspect. I broke a 12 bolt under my Chevelle ( 1970 -454 - 450 HP 4 speed LS - 6 ) and all I had was a 10 bolt from a old 69 El Camino. Bolted right up and used the same driveshaft.

Of course ... in two weeks or less I had KILLED the 10 bolt
But by then I had the 12 bolt fixed and ready to go under the Chevelle again.
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Old 08-30-2009, 04:34 PM
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Cool that saves me the money of having the work done to the driveshaft.

Now is it really worth it (i mean really worth it) to upgrade from 1310 to 1350 u-joints. I mean everyone says bigger is better when it comes to u-joints.

Would the 1310 u-joints hold up to 430hp soon to be more (after I build the 12 bolt Im buying new heads and a bigger cam). A firm th350 and 4.10s with streetable cheater slicks???
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Old 08-30-2009, 05:00 PM
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Solid body 1310 (no cross drilling for grease zerk) will hold fine without a trans brake, but at the power level you are getting up to the stock driveshaft isn't very good, it is just made out of welded seam(muffler tubing)tubing. You should be okay until you step up to 475+ hp, then start looking to get a race shaft made, and if you get a new shaft made it would be kind of dumb to stay at the small 1310 joint size then, so plan the full upgrade in the future.
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Old 08-30-2009, 05:59 PM
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The driveshaft broke a long time ago and I had to buy a new one. At the time I didnt have much hp and I didnt know much about the drivetrain so I had it built with the factory size u-joints but the driveshaft was built to 3 1/2in.

My 1310 u-joints are solid spincers and from what Ive heard they are the best.

So I should be just fine when I hit the track for some weekend fun???
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:35 PM
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I would expect you to be fine now until you go over 550 hp or go to a trans brake.
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Old 08-31-2009, 07:21 PM
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very cool saves me from getting driveshaft work done. that just puts more money into the 12 bolt build
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Old 08-31-2009, 08:02 PM
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Unless you put slicks on the car you should be fine. I might worry about it when you put your cheaters on and you get some good traction. If you expect to throw more power at it, you just might save money on the long run by upgrading before something breaks. I've seen some bad things happen to transmission's when a joint breaks.

Driveline tube and muffler tube are not the same stuff. If your driveline stuff you have will work,you can always save up and upgrade later.But by the sounds of your goals, I would try and do it sooner than later.
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:15 AM
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well i just got off the phone with the place that built my driveshaft. they said the size i have they cant convert it to 1350 u-joints they have to build a new drive shaft.

they said for a 3 1/2" tube, solid 1350 spicers and slip yoke it will cost around 400 bucks.

im thinking of just using what i have now for a short bit then upgrading to the 1350 setup.

i would only be out the cost of the new 1310 pinion yoke that i have to buy right now IF i dont do the 1350 setup now.

so IF i were to just use the 1310 setup i have now buy a new 1310 pinion yoke (because i dont have one for the 12 bolt) and drive the car till i have the money to upgrade to the 1350 setup. is it easy enough to change the pinion yoke to the 1350 style? it just unbolts and bolts on right? no tricks or anything?
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Old 09-04-2009, 12:16 PM
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Didn't you already have 3 1/2 tube?
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:11 PM
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i thought it was but i was mistaken. my driveshaft is 3" the guy at the shop looked up the part number that is on my drive shaft.
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elcaminodragster
i thought it was but i was mistaken. my driveshaft is 3" the guy at the shop looked up the part number that is on my drive shaft.
You must have .065 wall tube and not .083. 3x.083 DOM tube in 1350 series would be plenty strong with your power level and lighter than the 3 1/2 tube. Honestly,most of the big HP syuff we build, we use either 3 x 083 or 3 x .095 DOM. In a street car, the 3 1/2 can cause some exaust clearance problems, especially in chevys running a full system when the exhaust comes pretty close to the D/L.

Ask your driveline shop if you have 065 or 083 tube.
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:30 PM
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i would have to call them back and ask them im not sure how think the sidewall of the tube is i belive its 65 if i remember.

i do not have any clearance problems with my exhaust system i have plenty of room.

but for a lot of street and some fun on the strip with either cheater slicks or sticky slicks what would be a tuff size for a steel driveshaft?
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elcaminodragster
i would have to call them back and ask them im not sure how think the sidewall of the tube is i belive its 65 if i remember.

i do not have any clearance problems with my exhaust system i have plenty of room.

but for a lot of street and some fun on the strip with either cheater slicks or sticky slicks what would be a tuff size for a steel driveshaft?
Check on what thickness you have now. I would want at least the .083 in the 3 inch. You should be able to get a 3 X .083 shaft for under 300.
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:44 PM
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well the price of 400 includes the slip yoke and both u-joints. ill call them again on monday
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