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Old 06-26-2006, 11:37 AM
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10bolt GM rear end question

I am new to this forum but have noticed a wealth of knowledge and some really great people here as I lurked on the sidelines. So here is my first Newbie question. I have a 3.73 posi rear from a '84 suburban,10 series. It has the 5x5 wheel lugs. I want to convert it to 5 x 4 3/4 wheel lugs to match what will go on the front wheels. Overall the axler is only 1" wider than what is currently in my 59 chevy truck. Does anyone know if there are axles that could be installed to make the correct wheel lug configuration? Or would I be best to move the guts of the rear end to a another 10bolt with the correct axles and length? This rearend is in good shape so I would like to keep it along with the tranny (700 4r) and the 350 engine. I think it would probably yield decent fuel economy if I don't mess with the ratios(Please correct me if I am wrong on this). Thanks in advance for your help. Tom

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Old 06-26-2006, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom'48
I am new to this forum but have noticed a wealth of knowledge and some really great people here as I lurked on the sidelines. So here is my first Newbie question. I have a 3.73 posi rear from a '84 suburban,10 series. It has the 5x5 wheel lugs. I want to convert it to 5 x 4 3/4 wheel lugs to match what will go on the front wheels. Overall the axler is only 1" wider than what is currently in my 59 chevy truck. Does anyone know if there are axles that could be installed to make the correct wheel lug configuration? Or would I be best to move the guts of the rear end to a another 10bolt with the correct axles and length? This rearend is in good shape so I would like to keep it along with the tranny (700 4r) and the 350 engine. I think it would probably yield decent fuel economy if I don't mess with the ratios(Please correct me if I am wrong on this). Thanks in advance for your help. Tom
Do you already have your wheels or could you just make it easy on yourself and get a wheel with both patterns which is what I have I can use the same wheel front back and on my coke cooler trailer. Just my idea
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Old 06-27-2006, 09:12 AM
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I used a 87 gm 10 bolt out of a 4x4 in my 58 but I use the 6 bolt pattern as it matches my stock pattern.I think you will find the 3.73 to tall for the 59 unless you are running a short tire. I work my 58 and sometimes pull a car trailer so I opted for 4.56 gears and 31x10.5 tires so I am turning 2650rpm at 70 in overdrive I also have a 700r4 auto.As for the axles if it is a 10 bolt I believe the car axles from a similar year will have the bolt pattern you need just pull a axle and take it with you to the wrecking yard and match them up or order new ones. WWW.moserengineering .com or www.nolimit.com I got my 2 inch leaf pads to weld on to the rearend so it will bolt up to the stock springs from no limit.I just took the parking brake cables out of the old rearend and swaped them out onto the 87 rearend.you also have to relocate the tab for the breakline to the drivers side and replace the brakelines.I used new lines from NAPA but you can use the ones off your old rearend if they dont break when you take them off.Do you have any pictures of your 59 to post?

Last edited by DOUBLEDICK; 06-27-2006 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:47 AM
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DoubleDick, Thanks for the info. I will check the site for spring pads. You are confirming what I thought would work. I am planning to run a 15 inch tire with aftermarket rims.
What are you using for brakes in your '58? I want to replace the front drums with discs and so far have only found one source for a kit (from Chevy Duty) to replace drums on the stock axle. Do you know of any other way to go? How 'bout the master cylinder,any suggestions? Your ride sounds like the real deal (being used daily&pulling a trailer) and so this is why I am asking you for suggestions. Thanks for any further help you can give.
I will post some pictures of my '59 as soon as I get one of my kids to help me figure out how to to do that. Tom
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Old 06-28-2006, 02:05 PM
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I use the kit for disks from Brothers Trucks I also used the power conversion kit and the roller bearing kit.Every year Brothers has a sale and I do my major purchases then.I run a 31x10.5 tire on a 15 inch slotted mag rim but I have to put the balance weights on the far inside so the disk caliper doesn't knock them off.so you shouldn't have any problems running a 15 rim.There are several companies that make these kits but the service I get from brothers is worth the couple dallors more than other companies.The couple times I got Little things that were wrong they just sent me the right one out that day and they tell me to keep anything that is cheaper than freight.I even got a custom auto sound system from them for less than the other companies wanted.You can Email me direct with any questions at dickdick@sbcglobal.net I check that daily when I am at home but I only get hear 2 or 3 times a month
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Old 07-09-2006, 03:42 PM
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weld stud holes shut in the shafts and drums and drill the 4 and 3/4" pattern into them

thats how to do it the quick easy way with factory stuff,


watch out on that posi, it is a grenade-lock


good luck
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Old 07-09-2006, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast68
weld stud holes shut in the shafts and drums and drill the 4 and 3/4" pattern into them thats how to do it the quick easy way with factory stuff,
Because they are both 5-lug there should be no problem just drilling them to the right pattern. You won't have to do any welding.

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watch out on that posi, it is a grenade-lock
aka Gov-Lock because it is a locker with a governor in it.
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Old 07-10-2006, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triaged
Because they are both 5-lug there should be no problem just drilling them to the right pattern. You won't have to do any welding.

aka Gov-Lock because it is a locker with a governor in it.
Thanks to both of you for the replies. Sounds like an inexpensive fix and something I had not considered. Can you tell me more about the Gov-lock and why I need to be cautious. Also is it a good reliable unit? Thanks Tom
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Old 07-10-2006, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom'48
Thanks to both of you for the replies. Sounds like an inexpensive fix and something I had not considered. Can you tell me more about the Gov-lock and why I need to be cautious. Also is it a good reliable unit? Thanks Tom
You can get some good info searching both here and on google. However the short version:

1) It isn't a limited slip. It is a locker.
2) It acts like an open diff just about all the time.
3) When one tire gets spinning more than a certain RPM faster than the other it will lock solid; with a thud.
4) It won't stay locked at more than about 40 MPH.
5) Because of how it locks the shock loads often crack the case (the weakest part of the Gov-lock).
6) When/if the case cracks it often takes out the entire rear end (R&P, housing, bearings).

It is a good diff for a truck that stays on paved roads most of the time but might drop one tire into snow/ice/sand every once and a while.

If you upgrade the diff it would be a good idea to go to 30-spline axles as well.
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Old 07-11-2006, 12:07 PM
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Just redrill the axles Tom48 - the Moser's I've been buying for G-bodies have two sets of 5 on 4 3/4's already drilled in them so I think you'd be ok hammering studs into a new set of holes.
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