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Old 10-14-2008, 05:26 PM
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10si wire help

hello , I search thru some posts and found some of what i needed . But i want to be sure i get this right . My car had a one wire alt on it ( from what i could tell ) anyways the 2 plug wire harness that goes into the alt. was no longer there . I bought a replacement for that . But stlll can't find the wire that comes from the gauge cluster for battery / light .
So, I ran a wire from the battery to the BATT post on the back of the alt. then from the post to the # 2 part of the plug. Since i can't fiqure out the gauge / light for the other wire , i read to get a diode from radio shack . either rs # 276-1101 or rs # 276-1144 . Do i wire that directly to the wire on my new plug ?( number 1 ) or do i still need to run it from something switched then to that part and then into the number one lead ?
I tried without anything and it did not seemed to charge .

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Old 10-17-2008, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by monte ss
hello , I search thru some posts and found some of what i needed . But i want to be sure i get this right . My car had a one wire alt on it ( from what i could tell ) anyways the 2 plug wire harness that goes into the alt. was no longer there . I bought a replacement for that . But stlll can't find the wire that comes from the gauge cluster for battery / light .
So, I ran a wire from the battery to the BATT post on the back of the alt. then from the post to the # 2 part of the plug. Since i can't fiqure out the gauge / light for the other wire , i read to get a diode from radio shack . either rs # 276-1101 or rs # 276-1144 . Do i wire that directly to the wire on my new plug ?( number 1 ) or do i still need to run it from something switched then to that part and then into the number one lead ?
I tried without anything and it did not seemed to charge .
The #1 terminal on the 10SI is for the light. If you don't wire the light you need to provide switched 12VDC through a resister not a diode, which will simulate the light. I'm not sure what size resister, but I'm sure someone will post that knows.

The #2 terminal is for voltage sensing. You can run it to the BAT. terminal but actually it needs to be run to the circuit in your car that draws the most current. Or to the distribution point on the firewall. Or you can leave it un connected.
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:39 PM
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The Gauge can be hooked to ANYthing that is a hot wire, The main hot wire is suppose to be directly to the batt, the clip w/ two wires comin out hooked together, now fire it up and take a batt cable off, if it stays running its chargin, if it goes dead its not. You may want to give it a couple revs ''then'' check it.... let me know how this works out
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Overdriv
The #1 terminal on the 10SI is for the light. If you don't wire the light you need to provide switched 12VDC through a resister not a diode, which will simulate the light. I'm not sure what size resister, but I'm sure someone will post that knows.
A 35 ohm resistor will do it. I find it hilarious that now that the aftermarket has convinced everyone to use a one-wire alternator and eliminate the idiot light, Ron Francis has come out with a "voltage sensing module" that replaces the lost idiot light function.

Anything to make a buck, I guess...
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RoyCarterChevyFan54
... now fire it up and take a batt cable off, if it stays running its chargin, if it goes dead its not. ....
Good way to fry an alternator, or more specifically, a diode trio, That worked back in the days of 35 and 65 amp alternators, although even then it wasn't a good idea.
One wire alternators were never a good idea, but they were an easy way out for folks that didn't want to get involved in wiring an alternator up properly.
Monte SS, what kind and year of gauge cluster are you working with?
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:11 PM
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this is a two year old thread and somehow I doubt he's still trying to figure out the alt wiring.
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:26 PM
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Doh!!!! I didn't even think to look,
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