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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2013, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Gary View Post
Played with some Wallace numbers tonight.@ 3500lbs just short of 500hp will get me where I should be with this car.
My 78 Malibu with BBC (Steel heads), no ac/heat, no fiberglass body parts, full interior (race bucket seats, no rear seat), 6 point roll bar (.134 mild steel), 9'' Ford rear, stock suspension, 3,410 lbs without driver.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2013, 07:26 PM
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16/18/29
all that I said reflects your last post
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2013, 08:07 PM
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Absolutely.Torque curves apply even more so in the 1/8 for the all important 60'/330' times.Unlike street cars,you want those curves in race applications to be higher in the RPM range for a smooth transition from torque to hp for gear changes.I used hp as a term that most relate to...........
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2013, 05:08 AM
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But the thing is let's say I am holding.020 on .020 light or better.I might be racing 330' times and never test and tune at the tracks I regularly race at so no one knows what the car will do.You just need to cut good lights and pick your spots on the track and make good decisions to take the stripe or not.

The 9.90 cars we have owned before all would run in the range of 9.00's or alittle better...............won a national doing that.
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2013, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Gary View Post
But the thing is let's say I am holding.020 on .020 light or better.I might be racing 330' times and never test and tune at the tracks I regularly race at so no one knows what the car will do.You just need to cut good lights and pick your spots on the track and make good decisions to take the stripe or not.

The 9.90 cars we have owned before all would run in the range of 9.00's or alittle better...............won a national doing that.
in other words , you want to build a sandbagger. to go rounds,
instead of being able to dial.
are you at least gonna drive the car, or is this going to be another lame @_$ electric box /throttle stop cars?

guess the art of knowing your package and running an honest dial is a thing of the past.
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:32 AM
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At my level racing only a two step is allowed.So knowing your package is more critical to run your dial.Even the 9.90 cars with every kind of electronic you can think of,if you can't rt and cut a light,your not going to win.
I have yet to meet a fan that wants cars to run out the back door that is willing to put greenbacks in my wallet for wear and tear and breakdowns.

No sponsors at my level of racing either.The 9.90 cars we went only three yrs without one total.But the class I want to run there is none.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2013, 12:06 PM
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I just hate see'n a car dive at 1200
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:49 PM
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Yeah,but I have been in the bracket trenches for a very long time.You learn quick."It's better to build enough to cover a number than not build enough"!!.
I race myself first and then the track.I'm in it to win it.
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:37 PM
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where you go, leborn n.y.
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Old 05-29-2013, 07:54 PM
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I never heard of that before.Maybe you mean here??.

Lebanon Valley Dragway???.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2013, 02:24 AM
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Once I get this thing together,I'll be testing and tuning for 60'/330'times for both the 1/8 and the 1/4 for a very long time on a out of way track.The chassis test and adjustments for consistent times first.Then seat time for me to cut good lights and get used to the car.

In a 1/8:
60':1.64
330': 4.74

In a 1/4:

60':1.57
330':4.54

Of course engine,trans,etc,adjustments with a detailed log backed by a weather station.
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