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12 second Malibu's??.

15K views 70 replies 6 participants last post by  1Gary 
#1 ·
The good about OEM'ed framed/uncut floor boards trailered drag race only two door Malibu's and the bad.Comments encouraged.
 
#4 ·
Kinda like asking, in a world where things go from one to ten "what's the advantages/disadvantages of the number five?" :D

Between the choices of low-cost, low-speed and subtlety...and high-cost, high-speed and outrageousness...where is your particular comfort zone? Hey, I know a guy who had that 12-sec Malibu, then cut it up to make it run 8's but there it sits. It was faster when it was stock than sitting now in the garage waiting for some $2,000 engine part.
 
#5 ·
I kind lightening the car,a combo that I'm not buzzing to the moon for reliability and less maintenance issues,being in the top(low ET wise)dominating the class.Say target for a number like 12.10 with a car that could run like 11.80.
I come from yrs in 9.90 cars and a partnership of yrs and the most current car is in a RED with a driver that best was 4.56@150mph in a 1/8.Just want to compete in a slower class having fun.
 
#6 ·
so whats the ?
you know how to build an engine, low12's high 11's are not hard on that plateform thats basicly unchanged for 30 years..
g bodys are not heavy.. my SS is 3300lb and it's loaded..
a stripped malbu should be 3100 or less..
I'd think a low rpm(relative) n/a 355 or a s/c 355/383 would be able to go the whole season with nothing more than valve springs..

or, cheat and build a rock solid lower end and spray your way to glory..

the leak link is the upper link crossmember,
 
#7 ·
Well the question is mainly about the car/frame/suspension.Of course I need to decide if it going to be a BBC,LSX,or SBC.................
I want to start collecting parts.Saw some V6 front non A/C springs listed in Craigslist for $50 for the pair.
 
#8 ·
reinforce the rear link crossmember,
adjustable upper arms
maybe add lenth to the lower links mounts to change the mounting points,
guessing you'll have a cage or at least a 10pnt roll bar..
if not,cage, add boxing members to the frame ends, as both ends of frame are open and not connected to each other..
add g/p body braces,
you want nose up, so sbc or lsx
motor plates will help frame strenth..
some have added a crossmember where the frame kicks up in front of rear tire..
box the center unless running a roll bar/cage
 
#9 ·
I had a '78 with a mild 460 BBC. Comp cam 292H, Edel RPM, 9.5 compression, 781 oval ports (2.065 intake), 6 point roll bar, 3.89 gears, Mc Creary DOT tires. Car ran 12.0's easily. Wouldn't 60' with those tires to save its life, but ran 116 mph out the back. These cars need to be stiffened up (a 6 point roll bar wont do it). After every pass I had to tuck the rubber filler strip back under the front bumper.
BTW, 2 door Malibu is hard to come by around here. The 83/84 2 door Olds make a nice looking drag car too.
 
#13 ·
Think I'll stick to a 2 dr 79 to 82 Malibu.

Did search for curb wts.I know it isn't accurate,but it gives me a feel for it.

Malibu: 3254

Cutlass: 3263

Regal: 3600
they are all the same car... the only one thats a tad heavier is the g/p as it has extra bracing..
my monte SS on the NHRA scales was 3350 with a 3/4 full tank
and it's loaded..
I highly doubt a regal has an extra 250lb of sound deadner..
and that half vynil roof isn't that much lb's

finding a 78-82 malbu good luck
finding a 78-88 cutlass much easier..
same with the regal
the g/p and g.n. have more body mounts.. most have them there but no rubber mount in place..
unless you are stuck on the look of the malbu.. no need to pay the extra the chevy will comand because it's a 2door malbu
 
#15 ·
malb is 193"
cutlass is 199"(83 up) with that just being the difference of the malbu flat grill and tail over the cutlass angled grill and angled tail lights..

malbu 3362 lb (5.0v8 auto)
cutlass 3397lb 5.0v8 auto)

at 30 lb's difference, I'd call that moot..

as the 83 up cutlass areo is better..
and fyi the 78-81 cutlass is the same length and weight as the 78-81 2 door malbu..
 
#17 ·
I'm toying with the idea of running a BBC with steel aftermarket heads to on purpose add 150lbs back into it to help slow it down,but hook like a raped ape for great 60' times.The steel heads too help hold down costs.

A glide for consistency is a strong for-runner under consideration.
 
#19 ·
I'm toying with the idea of running a BBC with steel aftermarket heads to on purpose add 150lbs back into it to help slow it down,but hook like a raped ape for great 60' times.The steel heads too help hold down costs.

A glide for consistency is a strong for-runner under consideration.
I don't know man, it's a 12 sec car, I'd build with alum heads,,
and add the 150 lb where YOU want it..
2nd, you can run pump swill and drive it around, don't know how far tracks are from you, but towing can get old, and not really needed on 12 sec car..

if my SS wasn't so clean, I'd build a monster.. but I think it be a 5.3 or 6.2 lsx as they make silly power with a turbo, cheap easy power..

but if you have a bbc part and only need machine work.. go for it..
or p.m. me and buy my 489 just needs heads and intake, and to be machined all new everything.. don't want it to sound like an add so I'll stop there..
 
#24 ·
Where this gets more involved is I.R.H.A. sportsman goes as deep as 11.50 and N.H.R.A. cuts it off at 12.00.So for me to cover both at the bottom of the class is going to take some figuring.Yeah I know nitrous but I was trying to avoid the costs of refills on the bottles.
 
#27 ·
One of the reasons to consider a LSx is the EFI.But because they seem to be a hp engine,I have doubts about their 60' times/ET potential.Well unless you really get after it.So I am thinking with a LSx it might very well end up being a mph car.And all the LSx parts like heads are as expensive as some of the BBC stuff.The development of the aftermarket parts for them is still yet to have come in full circle.
 
#28 ·
Looking at some numbers for a 11.30's car.Plugged in a range from 3,000 to 2,700lbs and it looks like just a shade short of 500hp at the flywheel.N.H.R.A. is a 12.00 and I.R.R.A. is 11.50.The one track I would run most of the time runs on a index of 7.50,a 1/8 and the other is 13.50,a 1/4 mile.Two steps allowed at both and both loosely being run under I.H.R.A. guide lines.Breaking out of the class means I would be run down my potential 9 second cars and diffidently don't want to do that.

Looking more and more like a BBC choosing my weapons(parts)carefully to hold down costs.Calling in some favors and hitting the auctions when auction season opens up.
 
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