[whatwouldscoobydo]

subframed my stude with 75 nova installed 350 and rearend and complete wiring harness.Keeping my stock heater core and motor which is 6volt.Bought a voltage reducer from Napa,connected it before the stock heater switch. but when i turn on the heater switch I notice a little smoke coming from the voltage reducer!Don't know what the amp rating is for the heater motor.Only tried it once.Didn't want to see a big smoke show.also using the stock gas gage and gas tank how do I wire this, I don't believe afull 6 volts goes to either of these. Thanks Tom

[willys36@aol.com]

Voltage reducer is probably just burning off a little varnish or oil from the factory. I wouldn't worry about it. They get VERY hot 'cause they are burning as many amps as your motor uses. Those little motors use about 7 amps at max speed. I often use a 10watt, 1ohm resistor from Radio Shack (couple of bucks) for them.

[packratwrecker]

You can change the voltage, by using those reducers in series or parallel circuits. They are not a "1 size fits all" affair. The amperage of the heater motor, is more than the single reducer can support.

I fought a similar problem in my 49 Chev wrecker.
This may sound a little cheesy, but i used a GM pickup blower resistor, and played, until I found the combo that gave me the right speeds. I installed it in the airflow path that is not interupted, when I switch to defroster. It cools the resistor, whenever the heater is on. I ran power to the resistor. Then each speed setting to a 4-position rotary switch. Then switch to motor hot wire. I have low, med, and high, and still use the 6-volt motor. This is the 2nd winter, and no problems, so far. Everything is hidden behind or under the dash, except the selector switch.

May not be the "vintage air" method, but it was cheap, and it works.

[whatwouldscoobydo]

I wondered if it was just warming up, burnin things off. It is a 2 speed and seemed to work just fine for the short time I ran it.How wouldI know the correct number of voltage reducers to use?Anybody any ideas on operating the gas gauge?Thanks for the help.The stude was originaly a wrecker in oregon.

[julmer]

I'd take a hard look at the heater motor. If it looks like a fairly normal one, I'd take it to my parts counter and try to find a 12 volt replacement that was pretty close.

[jimfulco]

The resistor should have the same resistance as the motor itself, or very close.

[red65mustang]

ask Santa for a digital volt/ohms meter. $30 at Harbor freight or Sears basic model is all you need

a good meter used to cost $$$

not any more, "made in China", it's a throw away item now.

Proof: got a Harbor freight as a gift for my son, tested every range against my Fluke, same values for all, has all the same test functions.

[willys36@aol.com]

Originally posted by whatwouldscoobydo
I wondered if it was just warming up, burnin things off. It is a 2 speed and seemed to work just fine for the short time I ran it.How wouldI know the correct number of voltage reducers to use?Anybody any ideas on operating the gas gauge?Thanks for the help.The stude was originaly a wrecker in oregon.

Like I said, a 1ohm 10watt resistor will do the job on those motors. That's what I used on my '53 Chevy pickup for 10 year before I upgraded to an Old Air AC/heater unit and it's what I use on my Willys heater. You can barely see the aluminum bracket I wrapped it in just behind the rounded case of the heater. I put it here in the air flwo of the blower to take advantage of the heat it generates.

[red65mustang]

the pic doesn't show the "Sparkomatic" radio.....

merry xmas to all

[willys36@aol.com]

I know, I know. I'm slumming with a Audiovox. But I do have my good old $10 HiTech 4" speakers. That has to count for something!

[whatwouldscoobydo]

The heater core is the round style and the motor is in the center of this and seems to be soldered to it.don't think they will have that at the parts store!Thanks for the help.