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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2013, 10:02 AM
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I wouldnt need an engine that is good for traffic or cold weather. This would be a cruiser/street racer. I dont think I want to take apart this combo. The only thing I wanted to do was replace heads to help with detonation. I didnt know if these heads were any good. I wouldnt want to trade anyone for a stock type of motor. 500 hp would be perfect for what I want to do. In fact if what I use is 500 hp is would be the least powerful of the muscle cars I have (2 SuperBees and Shelby GT500). I was just not in love with needing 110 gas.

What do you think this engine combo carb to pan is worth complete?
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2013, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawnb View Post
Is there a way thru compression testing I can calculate the the actual compression ratio?
If you divide the compression lbs by 14.7 it will be a rough guide
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Well a stock super bee and stock gt500 dont make close to 500 hp. I would think this motor is pretty strong compared to the gt or the 426 hemi.

Price would need to be added up and parts priced. Then add in the machine work and builder time. Add all together and cut it in half since the motor is used and that should be around your price. Or between 2500 to 5k depending on the guts. New with forged internals and all the right toys 15k.
Did you actually see a Dyno sheet for this engine. There have been many a 500HP engine sold that were actually closer to 300
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:21 PM
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?????? Who said anything about "a stock Super Bee and stock GT500" ???????? 1969 1/2 A12 six pack Super Bee Hemi orange restored 6/2012. 543" ci stroker, Edelbrock heads, 3.5" hookers, 3 worked holley 500 cfm carbs, hydraulic rollers cam, lifters, rockers+++ Dyno done 4/2012 715 ft lb torque. Thats the orange Bee in the pic earlier in this post.

Oh ya "stock GT500" Ford racing 2.3L TVS supercharger, Kooks 3" race headers and exhaust, high flow elbow + twin TBI. VMP performance underdrive supercharger pulley kit 2.59" boosts 18 PSI (double OE). Eibach lowered suspension. +++ too much to list here. Above are the highlights. Yes I have the engine and chassis dyno with many pulls. Videos too. All 3 cars are in previous pics in this post.

Most of my performance experience is in Mopar and Ford. Thats why I was asking you guys what you think the 355 Chevy as I posted the specs prior is worth. ?????? Any other ideas of value?

But I agree, 500 hp is much more than "STOCK" Super Bees and Shelbys...
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:32 AM
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Hook up a battery and run a compression test. Cranking compression over 215 or so will be hard to get by on pump gas. You can either swap heads or run a cam with more duration or a tighter LSA. Increasing overlap will lower the dynamic compression.

Russ
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:59 PM
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The info is helpful. I think based on what I've read it sounds like the set up I have is a good engine. I dont think I want to mess with it. I think that I may try it in a car and have a careful tune and mix some 110 with the pump 93. Worst case it pings and I pull it and sell it. Or I may sell it as it is and buy/build another. I knew the compression may be a factor when I bought it. I bought it @ Iola old car show the last day of the swap meet. He did not want to bring it back home. I may not be a Cheve expert like some who have responeded but im not new to muscle cars amd HP motors. I wouldnt have bought it if it didnt sound/run right. Its solid.

You made mention of if the guys were idiots they woudnt have used those quality Bow Tie heads 2.02. Whats different from these to any other chevy small block 2.02 head?
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:35 PM
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So based on the specs of the engine carb to pan ready to run with all accessories what would you sell it for. Anyone chime in. Im not sure???

thanks in advance.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:02 PM
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Not trying to "market an engine". Marketing it would include including my contact info, which I wont do. Ive never bought or sold a used engine. Im also not familar with GM or high compression race gas engines. I bought it based on the idea I would modify it to run on 93. Based on responses from people like yourself it sounds like its not a good idea to take it apart. Thats why Ive used this forum for advise from others with more experience like every other person who has posted a question looking for help here. Chill out.
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:16 PM
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Sounds like you already buy race gas by the drum. What's one more? Me, I hate to admit I've made a serious uncorrectable blunder. Now, with that said, it doesn't sound like you have the skills or the inclination to fix this problem yourself. If you did, you would pull it apart on the stand where it sits and see what you got. Most folks I know would never buy a used race engine from anything less than a reputable engine builder. So...that leaves you with the option of breaking it down and selling for salvage the parts you don't use. Use the block, the rods and crank and buy new parts that fit what you intend to do with the car. 500 HP on pump gas is not difficult with a 355 if you use a set of AFR or comprable heads and a hydraulic roller cam. It's at the upper range of what you can expect without power adders.
Maybe the guy you bought it from will buy it back at a discount you can live with.
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