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14010207 Good Block for boost?

26K views 66 replies 8 participants last post by  johnbob 
#1 ·
I finally pulled apart the engine out of my plow truck with less than 50,000 miles and wow oil changes make a hell of a difference, I was shock at how clean it was inside compared to outside and no ridge on cyl to speak of. Now my question is will this block and bottom end hold under moderate boost like 10psi or so, it is a 4 bolt and will the notches in the piston on the squish band cause issues with detonation(see pics)? What compression ratio will it need to be for 10psi boost, what heads?

going to run it with th400 and 3.73 gears in a 85 c10 2wd turbo blow thru carb and unsure what ignition to use, suggestions please

engine is from
86 c20 heavy duty
block 14010207
heads 462624, 462626

I'm sure I'll have more questions since I have never played with turbos before other than diesels. And I'm trying to do it on the cheap if I can.
 

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#2 ·
to be safe at 10psi I would run about 8:1 compression, and intercool it.

Are you running stock pistons? you didn't show a picture of them.
Are you planning on freshening the short block or running as is?
What turbo are you looking at and what other engine modifications?
Expected power out put?

If you're going to try to make your own blow through carb, be very diligent with data logging and start tuning with high octane gas (100 or better).
 
#3 · (Edited)
pistons

Here is a shot of the slugs stock I think 0.025 in the hole you can see the notch in the forward direction is this going to be a problem. I'm honestly not sure to go with a turbo or supercharger the latter might be funner on the street, was thinking a 144 weiand possibly but not cheap. I'm sure 8psi would be enough to net me 450hp with a carb on it. Planning on doing a quick deglaze and rings and bearings if their poor. Not sure about other mods, is there something I should be doing?

how about these heads they seem reasonably cheap and would put me around 8.6:1 http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/bro-1028100-1/overview/make/chevrolet will these get the job done for me
 

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#4 ·
1000 per head? lol that is not cheap. not to me anyways.. if spending money like that on heads you should be able to get 450 hp n/a 650+++ with 8psi.

you could probably make 450 on 8psi with stock heads and a cam swap.

biggest issue is going to be cast pistons. youll need to be very very careful on the tune and dont nail it til you have it perfect. cast pistons dont like detonation very well
 
#6 · (Edited)
1000 per head? lol that is not cheap.
Sorry no it is not, I mistook the price as being a set. I just didn't think my heads are very good and would like aluminum anyway. What is a cheaper aluminum head that will get the job done? I was thinking that a blow through would be problematic as well. And what about ignition? can I still run hei or does it have to be electonic. Would it be possible to get 450hp from the stock bottom end N/A
 
#5 ·
if money is tight (I guess that's relative with $2K for heads?) then just freshen your stock short block, add a mild cam, and get the 144 supercharger, you can get around 450hp at 8psi as you said. A turbo could make more power and be a little cheaper, BUT tuning a blow through carb is not something I'd recommend to beginners, a draw through setup with a blower is much easier.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Johnbob, the problem with attacking anything new like this is that you don't know what you don't know. That means that there are details to bolting a blower on that you couldn't possibly know from talking with us hooligans on this site. We would have to write you a book and that is not in the scope of what we're doing here. I strongly suggest that you read through one of the offerings from authors who can explain in detail what you are up against. Pat Ganahl is a good read and buying used will save you some shekels.....
Amazon.com: Buying Choices: Street Supercharging: Roots, Centrifugal & Twin Screw Superchargers (S-A Design)
 
#10 ·
Pretty much cheapest way to 450hp, I was hoping I could get away with supercharging stock bottom and buy a mechanical carb. But if I need forged pistons and a long list of other stuff it'll be too much right now. I could spend about 2500 and maybe a little more. And has to run on pump gas.
 
#11 ·
cheapest way to 450 hp I see is find a strong used 454,probably $1000.
Put in the biggest cam the compression ratio will tolerate,used rpm or W/E intake and 850 cfm carb and headers.
or find a roller 350 that runs well,install new/modified vortecs,as big of cam that matches your compression ratio,vortec rpm intake,750 cfm carb,1 5/8 long tube headers and thats what you get(maybe 400 hp)
 
#12 ·
to do this cheaply and with new parts I would do this:

have your block honed with a torque plate and install new flat top pistons with the proper compression height (not the cheap ones that are short).

install a set of Assault heads, SBC Chevy 200cc Bare Aluminum Cylinder Heads 64cc Straight Plug Small Block 350 | eBay

And a roller cam: https://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1989&gid=289

Get the proper springs to match it and a decent set of rockrs- Scorpions are good and affordable.

Used RPM intake, used headers, and a rebuilt 750+ carb or a new one if you cant find a decent rebuild. If you go with a new one then I'd run this: Demon Fuel Systems -1903 -750 Street Demon® - Ball Burnished Aluminum

Match that with a recurved HEI unit.

you'll be around 10:1 compression

This would be a good match for a moderate weight car with a stick or moderate stall- which may be nothing like what you are planning. If its heavier or a stock stall you'll need less cam.
 
#16 ·
Actually, Assault heads (not ProComp) have been found to have excellent guides, Dart however has not... AFR and ProFiler are great heads though, no arguing that.

AFR has a great product and customer support, but the cost is about 4X as much, guys like myself who have to work for the money they spend tend to notice a 400% price increase.

The Jegs housebrand heads are Profiler's and are a budget conscious way to get a great American made head, if that matters to you. Frankly it doesn't matter to me one bit but I can respect people finding value in different things.
 
#18 ·
The parts listed in a build will come out close to 2500. And it'll deliver over 450hp. Your camel humps won't.

Heads-400
Cam and springs- 500
Intake-100
Carb- 400
Pistons- 200
Ring and bearing kit- 100
Rocker arms- 300

That's 2000 leaving 500 for the rest of the little stuff.
 
#26 ·
You could run stock rockers too if you want to be real cheap about it. And good 400 blocks are hard to find around here, I don't know about where the OP is at.

The point is 2500 can actually buy you a lot if you know where to shop.
I'd square the block first.. aline bore and deck it.. (after you have pistons and rods in hand)
take the oem rods, bush small end polish beam and resize big end and good arp bolts,
nice forged pistons.. lighter the better,, spend the money in malory metal..
you are aline boring it, now is the time to add main studs.. as you'll need them in use when they aline bore it..
same with decking it, have the studs in hand ( I' like arp)
an oil pump with the bypass spring reworked..
and you have a solid short block to work with..
this will eat a good chunk of 2500.00 (figuring 225 for the studs, 400 pistons/ 250 balance as it'll need malory/600 for the machining/ )
I'd call this stage I... then bolt on what ever he has now and run it..
and the last of that 2500.oo in a roller cam set up. flat tappet is cheaper, but it's not worth it anymore to chance it.. they are only 300.oo more when you add it all up.. (flat tap cam/lifters/springs/etc)
then when he has the funds to do the top end.. have at it,, better heads and intake and cam..

everyones that done the down and dirty el cheapo builds, run them for a season and then sell them, not many keep them.. that is telling..
 
#24 ·
actually I can get a 400 with blown head gasket for $400 with 50,000 miles.It is from my boss and he said we can tear it down if I want but not sure if I would catch a problem with the naked eye or not. This would make my goal easier to obtain but my 350 botom is in such nice shape and I already own it. The problem with my camel humps is one is a 461 and the other is a 462 now the only difference I can see is chamber size which I already started on. and 1 pulled stud, now would these screw in studs be better than driving the one stud down and pinning them. I was think I would build a jig to fit drill press to hold head strait while I drilling and try to be careful while tapping. And remember I'm not trying to cut corners or be cheap just making due with whats available to me. The closest machine shop is in usa and I'm in canada and they won't let me cross-was near jailed last time I tried so not much of an option for me. Where am I going to find decent heads for $400 I think aluminum is the way to go then I can run more timing and if I get some bad gas it might hold up.
 

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#27 ·
#28 ·
My initial thought was a turbo from a 5.9 cummins or 7.3 powerstroke cause I may be able to scoop one off a parked truck , and build my own piping and have a guy near me that can autocad plasma my flanges and would buy a build your own header kit for the nice bends. I don't mind working at it a bit and may do it over the winter.
 
#29 · (Edited)
. Did you check the turbo header prices at that link? Didn't that picture of a twin turbo engine cause you to cream your jeans... LOL ... picture it in your rig... as the article says, two 4-banger turbos make a V8 turbo... and smaller turbos with lighter turbines give better throttle response, less turbo lag, gentler, smoother boost build... here's the turbo car I drove in the mid 1960's...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iieDedNEYuI
.
 
#39 ·
those are NOT LT1 pistons, the factory LT1 pistons were made by Mahle and were actually really good flat top pistons. If you can find a set with little wear they are a good cheap upgrade, and if the bore shows little wear I'd even think about reusing the rings, they are thinner than the older style of rings and cost a little more to replace. I'd thoroughly check the rings over before you reuse them though. If they used a good oil with frequent changes they should show little to no wear.
 
#44 ·
those are NOT LT1 pistons, the factory LT1 pistons were made by Mahle and were actually really good flat top pistons. If you can find a set with little wear they are a good cheap upgrade, and if the bore shows little wear I'd even think about reusing the rings, they are thinner than the older style of rings and cost a little more to replace. I'd thoroughly check the rings over before you reuse them though. If they used a good oil with frequent changes they should show little to no wear.
who do you think owns speed pro
 
#46 ·
This is what it is for but it is much lower now. I want to run the 700r4 that I have now and 3.73's 26" wheel.. but boss also has a camper special with a th400 2wd if I start to make real power. I will also tear down the 400cid and he'll want to aswell since he built it, I know I would want to see how it held up.
 

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#47 ·
straight to the 400 /th400
don't waste your time with the 350/ or the 700r4

not say'n a 350 can't more that out.. but the 73-87 wasn't light
my 71 is just under 4000 lb

if you drive it enough that you have to have o/d then plan on spending bucks on that 700r4, I'd grab the th400 and all that goes with it...
 
#63 ·
it may be a lot easier and not that much more expensive to just buy a crate engine. Not being able to get any machine work done is going to be a real hassle and you'll either pay for it in seat time and gas reciepts or shipping fees.

that's just the unfortunate thing about living away from civilization.
 
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