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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2013, 07:13 PM
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Ok guys when porting these heads can I smooth these round humps down so its nice and smooth or do I need to keep these there???
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2013, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Ok guys when porting these heads can I smooth these round humps down so its nice and smooth or do I need to keep these there???
Yes make them flat they are just casting marks.

Best way is to shave a little off at a time so you can get them dead flat without cutting any metal around the area since you want it as flat as possible.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:37 PM
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Thanks guys. What is the common wall side
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:15 PM
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14101083 Cylinder Head

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Originally Posted by 1Gary View Post
Yeah,that's the link I posted earlier in this thread.
You must have this thread mixed up with another one. You must have got excited at the chance to argue with F-Bird'88 that you thought you posted a link to the flow bench. I only see the link for a flow bench once in post# 51.
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:28 PM
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Thanks for the info. Greatly appreciate it. Can you point me in the right direction on some bits to use for porting. All I have is the port and polish kit from jegs which is ok but not efficient. I need something about six inches long id say and one maybe three inches long. A good carbide bit I guess. What do you suggest
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2013, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
None of this general porting on this stock SBC head requires a flow bench. You got to put some air in a tire first before messing with the tire gauge.
A picture says a 1000 words.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...0&d=1347916622

i did not do this head. Buts a really good pic of the desired finished form. Look at the chamber too.
Congratulations,you have just discredited the whole foundation the aftermarket bases it's self on.......................

Now that just doesn't make any sense.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2013, 09:19 PM
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We all know as casted OEM heads are all the same.Right??. I'm call it BS. So to follow the same pattern reaps the same results without a flow bench to check if your just hacking away at a pc of metal or really doing better or worst. Taking tech back to what amounts to caveman times is illogical.

The first set of heads done right usually the response is OH!!!. That's what I have been missing..........
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:33 PM
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1gary,do you have any experience with super stock engines? How do you measure cfm flow on stock castings
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:06 AM
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Hey F-Bird check out these bits. will these work ok. They are similar to what you have below.

I guess these are made for cast iron??? I have no idea.
http://www.goodson.com/5_Pc_Set_of_L..._Rotary_Files/
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Hey F-Bird check out these bits. will these work ok. They are similar to what you have below.

I guess these are made for cast iron??? I have no idea.
GOODSON : Engine Building Tools and Supplies
Check this out >>> GOODSON : Porting & Polishing : Rotary Files <<< it shows the difference between rotary files for iron versus aluminum. Iron uses a finer flute than those for aluminum. This is because aluminum melts into the clearance between flutes plugging and gumming them up till they won't cut. Iron just makes solid chips that fly off the cutting face.

You can use a coarse aluminum bit on iron all that will happen is a rougher surface finish from some chatter the wider flutes create, but they'll cut just fine. Aluminum will gum up the smoother fine iron flute almost instantly. You can kind of get away with the fine flute on aluminum if you frequently run the bit into a piece of bar bath soap. This lubricates the flutes preventing the aluminum from sticking. Same thing if you're cutting aluminum with a rotary stone or drum sander, run the stone or drum sander into piece of bar soap every few cuts and it'll stay pretty clean of imbedded aluminum. This of course leaves your bits and stones smelling clean and refreshing.

Bogie
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