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Quote:
"All I know is what I learn from talking to the engineers and racers who run this stuff. Blower Drive Service says that they have consistently had better results on gasoline with a 110 LSA, so that's the info I pass on to others who ask. They say that you may want to open up the LSA for alcohol, but tighten up to 110 on gasoline." You posted my quote, but erased my screen name from the top of it. What kind of nutball does that? Quote:
All I'm asking is that you LEAVE ME ALONE. Post what you think to be the truth and I'll do the same. I have never jumped into the middle of your stuff, unless it was to defend myself from one of your scathing attacks. Perhaps not. Perhaps you're too damned stupid to understand how to get along on this site. Just live and let live. Mind you own damned business. Quote:
You're a freakin' ding-dong. Nobody has done everything themselves, not even the premier engine builders and certainly not you or me. Quote:
Quote:
I'm asking only one thing. LEAVE ME ALONE. It's no fun to have to answer your attacks instead of helping the younguns on here who ask for help. Last edited by techinspector1; 01-06-2013 at 08:05 PM. |
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Also makes me wonder why bother w/any small displacement engine to build, boosted or not unless that's absolutely all there was available, or if it was original equipment in a car, like the 5.0 Fords.
I guess some do it because they think it'll be cheaper starting w/an engine they may already own. But buying a suitable core is the cheapest part of the build- even throwing out an ill-suited engine and starting fresh would be a better choice in many cases than building up an engine that was short on displacement. I do not subscribe to the whole "bolt a blower on a cammed-up stock short/long block and when it blows, go get another one to blow up the same way, repeat as needed" theory. Nor does it always have to be a top-shelf build in every regard although it would be nice to be able to do that, budget be damned. If a guy chooses his parts carefully, looks for deals, and doesn't hurry into too many mistakes or follow poor advice, a decent engine can still be assembled using good parts that'll perform great and not break the bank. And I draw the line at 305 heads. For me installing 1.94" valves is the deal killer. In a tight budget situation I'll still port the old fuelie heads, but only because I have all the templates and valves I made to use as tools to get a semblance of uniformity between the ports. The labor to port a cast iron head is much the same regardless of what head it is. I'd rather have a stock L31 Vortec head than any of the others, anyway. They have no shortcomings for use on a performance 350 that cannot be dealt with cheaply. That said, there are guys who won't even mess w/fuelies OR Vortecs. And that's OK by me. On a final note, I'd like to say that oversimplification and 'one size fits all' "advice" helps VERY little and may well cost a lot more in the long run. And unfortunately it's always the new inexperienced guys who buy into this type of short-cut advice, because it makes it sound so damned easy. It's what they want to hear, not what they NEED to hear. The net result of this is often going to be disappointment when it's found that it takes some actual thought and understanding of the fundamentals- and beyond- to get as good of a result as the oversimplified short-cut answers promise. In other words, building a street/strip engine correctly for the application might not be rocket science, but it sure as hell isn't THAT simple, either. |
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