[northeastvic]

I am currently working on installing a 1964 1/2 260 v-8 out of a mustang into a brand new Brookville full fendered 30/31 chassis. Brookville built the chassis to match the 260 drive-line I planned to install. The drive-line consists of 260 v-8 mated to a c-4 automatic to a c-4 1970 mustang automatic transmission.

During the process I am finding out that this installation as in any hot rod process is becoming more custom than anticipated.

Water pump challenge issue1:

I am unable to use the stock front water pump as it protrudes to far forward. I realize there might be an alternative water pump, ford Motorsport or even electric. Does anyone have any advise on the route to go or has anyone done this before?

Firewall issue 2:
Does anyone know if the firewall has to be modified for the 260 block? I'm under the impression the 260 v-8 is the same dimensions as the 289 (distributor up front). Any firewall recommendations would be appreciated.



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[northeastvic]

Also having intake manifold bolt clearance issue.

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[techinspector1]

Scroll down here for a shortie water pump...
http://www.snowwhiteltd.com/products.htm

[timothale]

I bought my A as an unfinished roller. with 302, auto. the builder recessed the firewall, not enough for the aluminum valve covers I want to use. How's the oil pan clearance? if you need more room you can get either a Bronco (expensive) oil pan and pickup tube , or 80's mustang V8 pan and tube parts.

[timothale]

The 260 is part of the the small block ford family 221 260 289 302 then modified for the 351 W, dimensions are the same except the 351 is a little taller and wider and not a lot of 351 parts interchange. the 221 and 260 have a different bell housing pattern, the valves are smaller. most people stay away from 221-260 unless they are doing a restoration. they are a good engine in a light car like your A good milage and plenty of power for a driver.

[oldbogie]

Originally Posted by northeastvic

I am currently working on installing a 1964 1/2 260 v-8 out of a mustang into a brand new Brookville full fendered 30/31 chassis. Brookville built the chassis to match the 260 drive-line I planned to install. The drive-line consists of 260 v-8 mated to a c-4 automatic to a c-4 1970 mustang automatic transmission.

During the process I am finding out that this installation as in any hot rod process is becoming more custom than anticipated.

Water pump challenge issue1:

I am unable to use the stock front water pump as it protrudes to far forward. I realize there might be an alternative water pump, ford Motorsport or even electric. Does anyone have any advise on the route to go or has anyone done this before?

Firewall issue 2:
Does anyone know if the firewall has to be modified for the 260 block? I'm under the impression the 260 v-8 is the same dimensions as the 289 (distributor up front). Any firewall recommendations would be appreciated.



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The Chevy/Harley Davidson orange Ford stopped me in my tracks! What were you thinking?

You'll hate yourself in the morning if you don't do something about that back bolt, like pulling the motor forward so you can get a wrench on that. Short water pump like in the link Techinspector provided will help a lot with not pushing this lengthy motor through the radiator while being able to get at the buried bolt. Murphy's Law insures that if you leave this like it is, the first thing you'll have to do after it's all built and polished up is pull the intake and there will be that bolt as defiant to removal as possible.

Bogie

[LATECH]

you could machine (or grind) the boss on the back a little to clear a slightly shorter bolt or you could put a torx headed bolt (button head style torx) in there as the head would be a low profile and may clear pretty good. There isnt a good option for clearance to remove the intake in the car as it looks,unless you chop cut rebuild that area.something you may or may not be wanting to do.
I see now that it is on the drivers side of the motor ( i saw the number8 there) that side will tend to lift as you accelerate so any clearance you gain would be good. Of course I might just be preaching to the choir here.

[LATECH]

You may want to eliminate the Oil pressure switch extension also as it looks as though it will interfere with the steering shaft. Just noticed thought it was worth the mention.

[northeastvic]

Originally Posted by oldbogie

The Chevy/Harley Davidson orange Ford stopped me in my tracks! What were you thinking?

You'll hate yourself in the morning if you don't do something about that back bolt, like pulling the motor forward so you can get a wrench on that. Short water pump like in the link Techinspector provided will help a lot with not pushing this lengthy motor through the radiator while being able to get at the buried bolt. Murphy's Law insures that if you leave this like it is, the first thing you'll have to do after it's all built and polished up is pull the intake and there will be that bolt as defiant to removal as possible.

Bogie

Thank you for your input. I realize I need to modify to allow easy access to that bolt. The motor COLOR however is a FORD red as labeled on the Armour paint can and the pic is lighter than it should be making it look more like orange. Thanks again. Vic

[northeastvic]

Originally Posted by latech

you could machine (or grind) the boss on the back a little to clear a slightly shorter bolt or you could put a torx headed bolt (button head style torx) in there as the head would be a low profile and may clear pretty good. There isnt a good option for clearance to remove the intake in the car as it looks,unless you chop cut rebuild that area.something you may or may not be wanting to do.
I see now that it is on the drivers side of the motor ( i saw the number8 there) that side will tend to lift as you accelerate so any clearance you gain would be good. Of course I might just be preaching to the choir here.

Good advice and you are not preaching. Always open for other's experience and help. Thanks again. Vic

[northeastvic]

Originally Posted by latech

You may want to eliminate the Oil pressure switch extension also as it looks as though it will interfere with the steering shaft. Just noticed thought it was worth the mention.

Have not purchased a Steering column as yet. I may also need that room when mounting an Alternator. Thanks. Vic

[Irelands child]

Welcome to the world of Brookville.

Now, let's see what has to be modified to make a SB Ford fit:

- Firewall. Unless you opt to run the late model serpentine belt arrangement and short pump, that firewall will need at least their 3" recessed version, and even with that set up, probably needed anyhow. The 5" will be better as it will give you even more engine room but might kill your foot room. You can also cut their motor mounts out and move the engine back - use the stock/standard pump along with the mechanical fuel pump (which will not work with the serp arrangement)

- Bolt/intake interference - yep, intake as well as the bell housing will need some clearancing regardless of the transmission used.

Here are some photos of mine which has an even greater setback, killing my foot room, but can be worked around.

This is a Brookville body, TCI chassis:

http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...t=DSC_0076.jpg









This is a 3.5" recess with an additional 2" deep lower recess to clear the bell housing/bolting

It is not a difficult project, but you do have to do some planning as well as taking the time to do a good fit.

My engine trans combo is a 302-5.0/C4 which dimensionally is identical to your 260, using a stock length water pump, tho a Stewart's NA$CAR version and with my setback, could have used a mechanical fan

Other photos available if you need them for a "guide"

Dave W