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Old 11-24-2010, 06:50 PM
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1930u Panhard bar geometry?

Does anyone know how to measure up to make a panhard bar. I have limited chassis to rear tire clearance and want to install a panhard bar to prevent lateral (side to side) movement of the differential housing. I'm running a ladder bar set up. I suppose if it's to long, or to short the suspension travel would force the rear end one way or the other.

Thanks in advance.

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Old 11-24-2010, 07:19 PM
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A pan hard is as easy a item as you are going to get when it comes to suspension geometry.

The basics are:

1. As long as possible.
2. The mounting (Pivot) points need to be as close as possible to the same height.




There you go, that is it, that is all there is to it. It can be bent in any configuration you want, as long as the pivot points are at the same height you will not have any side to side movement to speak of. The longer you make it the less a little difference in height is going to make.

The 25.5" is simply the one from this Speedway kit. Click here. It doesn't matter how long it is, but the longer the better.

Brian
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Old 11-24-2010, 07:39 PM
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It's been a while since I've done the math, but Brian is correct. A 25" panhard will have roughly .120" (1/8") side to side "pull" in 2.5" of upward or downward rear housing travel( 5" total travel) if set up level at your ride height. The longer you can make it and still fit it under the car, the less it will move side to side. A 30" panhard will only move axle .100" in the same suspension travel.
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Old 11-24-2010, 07:47 PM
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Here is another link to some good info. Click here

Brian
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Old 11-24-2010, 09:03 PM
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Thanks guys...I can do this. Here's a PIC of what I'm working on. I will have to bend the rod over the Olds housing center section. Only way to keep the mounting points at the same height.

Thank you so much!
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:55 AM
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One more consideration is the height of the bar. The higher the bar in the chassis (over the rear axle for example) the higher the roll center of the rear suspension. I like to install mine typically at the axle centerline behind the axle housing. Installing them this way it is a lot easier to build them as long as possible and keep them level.
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:59 AM
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That is exactly right, I had mine on my truck mounted there. Are those joints you are using designed to be "pulled"?

Brian
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Old 11-25-2010, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
That is exactly right, I had mine on my truck mounted there. Are those joints you are using designed to be "pulled"?

Brian
Yes... They are a prototype joint I put together for supension links. Zero slop, full rotation and minimal maintenance.
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Old 11-25-2010, 12:33 PM
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This is how I set ''all'' the cars I do.. Work's great.. When I look under the back of a car I like to see shock's and a rear end ''only''.. That me..
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Old 11-25-2010, 01:04 PM
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Yep, it's simple and gets the job done. I had the same in my truck. I used a tie rod and bolted a steering arm off a spindle to the frame rail.

Brian
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Old 11-25-2010, 01:44 PM
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You are right NEW INTERIORS, it will work just fine. Like I stated, it just makes for a higher roll center and you won't be able to make the bar as long.
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Old 11-25-2010, 01:48 PM
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What I am thinking, I ran it below the frame and the mount was below the rear axle as well, sorry.

Brian
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Old 11-25-2010, 02:09 PM
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I don't have the frame anymore where I had this set up but I have the bar! Here it is clamped up on my "new" frame. It put a rubber bushing on the other end and had it bolted to a mount on the rear end. Sad part was it was a 67 Camaro 12 bolt and I cut off half of the traction bar mount and bolted this pan hard on the upper portion that I left. That kicked the crap out of the value of the rear when I sold it a few years ago.

Brian
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Old 11-25-2010, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aosborn
You are right NEW INTERIORS, it will work just fine. Like I stated, it just makes for a higher roll center and you won't be able to make the bar as long.

I agree with what your trying to say.. But the way I see it.. unless your building a rock climber or a road course car.. The longer bar isn't needed... On a everyday street car.. You can get away with it being shorter... a street car has very little movement up in down, That the side to side movement won't chance enough to be worried... That's why I do every car the same.. Never had any trouble yet.. If it isn't broken,, I don't fix it... Keep it simple..

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Old 11-25-2010, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
I don't have the frame anymore where I had this set up but I have the bar! Here it is clamped up on my "new" frame. It put a rubber bushing on the other end and had it bolted to a mount on the rear end. Sad part was it was a 67 Camaro 12 bolt and I cut off half of the traction bar mount and bolted this pan hard on the upper portion that I left. That kicked the crap out of the value of the rear when I sold it a few years ago.

Brian
That is cool... Thinkin' outside the box!
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