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Old 04-04-2010, 11:01 AM
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1932 Ford 5 window front suspension

Hello

I have a -32 ford 5window with mustang II front suspension and 9" Ford leaf spring in the back.

Now i need some spacers for the wheels to get that "wide" look

But, anyone know the bolt pattern?

I measerud i i think they are 4.25".. Im i wrong, cause i cant find any spacers with that pattern.

I think maybe i have 4.5" pattern..?

What do you think?
And where should i buy spacers? I have only looked on ebay

Thanks for any answers

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Old 04-05-2010, 08:17 AM
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Below is a diagram as to how to measure the bolt circle and also how to measure the backspacing of your wheel. Left click for a larger view.

I'd suggest that you avoid running any wheel spacers between the hubs and the wheels. You should consider using a different backspacing to achieve the stance or 'look' that you wish.
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:23 AM
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425 spacing

4.25 was used on small mopars of the 60's for a few yeas. Valiant, Dart, etc. I also have a set of steel artillery wheels from the 30's that used that spacing. most Mustang II brake kits use either ford-later mopar 4.5 or camaro 4.75 rotors.
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frisco
Below is a diagram as to how to measure the bolt circle and also how to measure the backspacing of your wheel. Left click for a larger view.

I'd suggest that you avoid running any wheel spacers between the hubs and the wheels. You should consider using a different backspacing to achieve the stance or 'look' that you wish.

How other metod is there to use?
Switching rim are not an option..

Im thinking of spacing about an inch on all wheels..
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32ford5
How other metod is there to use?
Switching rim are not an option..

Im thinking of spacing about an inch on all wheels..
There are two different style of wheel spacers.

Both are available from several aftermarket auto parts distributors. Summit, Jeg's, and Speedway Motors are a few.

One is nothing more than a thick "shim" that is slipped over the wheel studs and is held in place by the rim when it is tightened. Longer wheel studs will usually be required to utilize any spacers of this style.

Another thicker spacer is either made from billet aluminum or cast aluminum and have secondary studs pressed into the spacer. It is installed by using the existing lug nuts and wheel studs to bolt the spacer to the hub. This spacer has it's own studs to bolt the rim to. This style is not recommended for use by me. It often will have excessive run-out. It can easily crack and enable the tire/rim to come off the vehicle. The inner lug nuts will often come loose and cause the tire/rim to wobble.

Below are three photos of wheel spacers of this style.

The point of contact when drawing an imaginary line thru the kingpin to the ground and another from the center of the wheel to the ground should meet at the ground level. This is a built in design and is the result of the kingpin inclination angle.

When using spacers on the front end of any vehicle, this point is no where near correct. The spacing will cause the imaginary point to be BELOW the ground level. This will cause steering problems and possible dangerous/hazardous driving.

Switching rims may not be the option you wish, but it is the safest option available.
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Last edited by Frisco; 04-06-2010 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 04-08-2010, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frisco
There are two different style of wheel spacers.

The point of contact when drawing an imaginary line thru the kingpin to the ground and another from the center of the wheel to the ground should meet at the ground level. This is a built in design and is the result of the kingpin inclination angle.

When using spacers on the front end of any vehicle, this point is no where near correct. The spacing will cause the imaginary point to be BELOW the ground level. This will cause steering problems and possible dangerous/hazardous driving.

Switching rims may not be the option you wish, but it is the safest option available.
Just a quick side note. What you are describing is the scrub radius in the spindle. In actuality, very few front suspensions have zero scrub. That is where the two lines meet at ground level. Most have positive scrub where the vertical centerline of the tire is outboard of the pivot of the kingpin. Take a look at any straight axle hot rod and you can visualize what I am talking about. Most have a couple of inches of scrub radius in them. Positive scrub radius can help with steering stability much like positive caster will. Many FWD cars have a negative scrub radius.

Andy
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