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Old 12-15-2011, 06:28 PM
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1932 roadster: wall behind seats?

What material is normally used to create the wall between the interior and the trunk. I am using bomber bucket seats so there needs to be a barrier. I figured I would make some oak braces to smooth out the shape and provide something to mount it to. Then attach some sort of stiff but pliable material to it that can then be covered to match the door panels. Would it be thin wood/luan? foam board? Heavy Card board? Sheet metal? It's a roadster so I want to use a material that wont warp if it gets wet (which we all know it will eventually). Also some help with where I might find the material would be great.

Also how is this panel normally atached? Spring clips like the ones used on door panels or velcro or something altogether different?

Thanks,
Jim

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Old 12-15-2011, 09:16 PM
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What you use and what you attach it with are really up to you. My choice for panels is PVC foamboard. This goes by the brand names Sintra, Komatex, CelTec, and Palight. It is available from sheet plastic suppliers and from upholstery supply shops and sign shops. For smaller panels like door panels and kickpanels, 1/8" (3MM) is fine. For a larger panel like you will need, 1/4" (6MM) is probably the way to go. If you need easy access behind the panel, Velcro is your best bet. Otherwise, metal door panel clips work really well. I used to prefer the Au-Ve-Co spring clips like the 10780 or 2385, but more and more I prefer the 12134 "Ford" clip. Take a look at this thread: CLICK HERE also, do a search for door panel clips to see pictures of all three kinds of clips. The plastic "Christmas tree" type of clips get brittle with age,so I wouldn't recommend them.
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:51 AM
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Thanks for the great material info. How pliable can I expect 6mm / 1/4" board to be? What's the best way to get it to bend to fit the curve of the compartment behind the seat? Heat? Gentle persuasion? Or will it be easier to work with than I expect and once its fastened down it wont be an issue? I would like to avoid creasing the material.

Can you buy this stuff in a big enough sheet or will I need to combine two panels? How to make this seam durable?

I'm assuming I would then glue the foam to the board and then glue my final material to the foam. Are there any worries about the material eventually letting go on the inside part of the panel curves? Should I consider using some sort of button pattern to mechanically retian the material instead of relying on the glue (and good fortune)?

Thanks also for the detailed info on panel clips.

Jim
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:44 AM
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The best part of PVC foamboard is its versatility. You can heat it with an industrial heat gun and form it to the shape you want. You can't crease it without breaking it, and that takes a lot. If you make a mistake,you can heat it and re-do your mistake. It can be glued together, sewn through, and it can be shaped with common woodworking tools. I have purchased this stuff in 5' by 10' sheets if you need it that big. 4' by 8' sheets are common.

If you use the right glue, ( I use DAP Weldwood spray grade HHR Top and Trim contact adhesive) you will have no problems. When gluing the foam to the foamboard, scuff the surface of the foamboard before you glue to it. If you use closed cell foam, scuff the surface of the closed cell foam also.

Here's a Wiki article on the correct glue to use and how to use it: CLICK HERE

The pictures are of two different kinds of industrial heat guns. You can get one for a good price at Harbor Freight and other tool web sites. The PVC foamboard in the other two pictures shows two pieces of 1/8" glued together and then shaped with a heat gun. This took about a minute and a half. A hair dryer will NOT create enough heat to shape 1/4" foamboard. It may work on 1/8", but not on 1/4"
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:24 AM
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I read the glue article you pointed me to. I hate to ask but are there any glues ready to go in an aerosol can that would also work well or would you strongly advise on skipping the shortcut and getting the harbor freight spray gun and the good glue referred to in the wiki article? (we're always looking for shortcuts huh). By the way... good advice from someone who's been there and done that, trumps a shortcut everytime. Also aren't we always looking for a good excuse to buy a new tool

I have the heavy duty heat gun so I'm good there. Thanks a ton for the example photos. It looks like the stuff is perfect for the application.

Scuffing surfaces before spraying the glue is a great tip. I know it's a required step in painting but it didn't occur to me to do this for gluing up panels.

I really appreciate the time you take to hlep us interior newbies sort out these details. Sharing good info that eventually makes to another car nut helps to keep our awesome hobby alive.

Jim
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:20 PM
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Yes, there are a few aerosols that will work for you, but you're probably going to need 6 cans and that will run you about $60 to $90. You could get a gallon of DAP Top and Trim and an HF spray gun for $50, but it's your choice. Here is an aerosol I've had good luck with: CLICK HERE

DO NOT use 3-M 74 or 77 aerosols, they just plain don't work. 3-M 90 or 8090 will work, but they're also more expensive.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:24 PM
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I looked at ordering PVC foam board and similar materials and they all seemed a bit pricey. I know, whats a few extra buck when you're in to it this far right. But I just need to stop the bleeding somehow. So here is what I ended up with. I found a product at Lowes that called FRP. (fiberglass reinforced plastic) Its basically a bathroom wall product. You might find this stuff covering the walls in your favorite gas station bathroom. It has kind of a pebble surface on one side ans mooth on the other. A 4x8 sheet of this stuff only coast $24 (nice). Anyhow, I transfered my posterboard template to the sheet and used a jig saw to cut it out. Then I clamped the center and began to heat up the material in the corners using a heat gun. I think it turned out pretty nice. I let it cool overnight and then removed the clamps. The shape held. I can remove it form the car and re-install it with very little fussing around. Its nice and stiff once the panel clips are used to secure it.

I do have one question... Can I expect standard upholstery glues to stick to this material?

Let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Jim
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:51 PM
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There's no way to know if standard upholstery glues will work with it because what you used is not a standard upholstery product. You will have to try trial and error. There are reasons why the guys who do this work for a living recommend certain products. It's because we know that it will work and you can use standard upholstery glue, and standard fasteners.

If standard upholstery glue won't work on this stuff, or even worse, melts it, how much will you have saved? I would have wanted to know the answer to the glue question long before I spent one minute working on the project. I also would have wanted to know how regular panel fasteners worked with it. Will the fasteners break it while attaching it to the car? Also, will road vibration break it and it ends up in pieces on the floor of the car?
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:47 AM
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Dan, I certainly see & understand your point. I did spend some time trying to locate the stuff you recommended but just happened to see this stuff when I was passing through Lowes and thought I'd give it a try. The price was acceptable enough to take a chance so I went for it. So far so good. The material doesn't seem brittle at all so I don't expect to have problems with fasteners or durability. If I do I'll certainly warn others against it's use. I understand that you simply don't know what will happen and I can accept that. I was excited about the way it turned out and just wondered what others would think about it.

I want you to know that your guidance does not go ignored or unappreciated. Thanks again for all your assistance.
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Old 04-28-2012, 07:28 PM
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I hope you understand that I'm not upset with you, I just have no knowledge of the product you used, so I am in no position to give you any advice, nor is anyone else on this forum. You took the rest of us out of the equation, and all we can do is wish you good luck and hope it turns out for you. I would just use standard upholstery contact adhesive on it and hope for the best.
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