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Old 12-12-2010, 02:57 PM
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1934 Steel Ford - evaluating it for rust

Hi,

Looking into buying a 34 steel Ford (all metal except for running boards and rear fenders). Being from the northeast (NY), I'm deathly afraid of rusting on steel cars and accordingly have been restricting my search to fiberglass cars.But I've come across a steel car that appeals to me, it's outside of Houston.

How would you guys evaluate a steel bodied car ? Use a weak magnet and run it all over the car to detect where the car has had bondo applied ? Anyone have experience on where 34 Ford 5 windows generally rust ? I would think the bottom of the door panels and the lower exterior door panels ?

Any precautions you guys in the snowy latitudes take in storing a steel car ? e.g raise it above the garage floor as I understand most moisture is within 6 inches of cement ?

Thanks in advance for you advice.

Joe

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Old 12-13-2010, 07:32 AM
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What is acceptable ?

Hi Joe,
I'm with you on this one, as I am also looking at a 48 Chevy pick up, and what worries me the most is the spots that are very hard to reach, like inside the doors and overlapping panels. Hopefully someone has gone as far as cutting the doors open and then fixing the rust, or dismantling the whole body, treated and reassembled it. What would be the route to take and when do I know it's just not worth it.

As I am very exited about this project and think my personal objectivity may be a little too positive.
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Old 12-13-2010, 09:46 AM
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'34 rust

my brother has a '34 in his basement for almost 20 yrs now.. and ya they get there share of rust,cancer.. but there are patch panels... if u want a project thats alot closer then TX drop me a line. he got it in hopes of rodding it, but i doubt thats gonna happen.... bill
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:06 AM
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Most of what you want to look at is under the car, get it on a lift and start looking for signs of panel replacement and how well the job is done, if at all. Check around the rear wheel wells, the floorboards, rocker areas where the running boards would bolt up, bottom of the cowl, trunk area. Fiberglass fenders kind of tells you that A. It had issues at one time. B The fenders were stolen, lost, or sold. It's very rare anymore that an older car will have no plastic used for repairs, those days are long gone, with the exception of the finer resto shops in the country, and you couldn't afford a car from them.

Don't let this scare you away from buying a car. Rust can pop it's ugly head up at any time, no matter how well the car was completed. The market is a buyers market at this time, a guy with a few bucks in his pocket can realize his dream car, and maybe even make a few bucks on it when/if he sells later.
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Old 12-13-2010, 01:17 PM
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Dinger,

Thanks, you're comments regarding the rationale/reasons for the rear fenders being replaced with fiberglass were excellent, it's food for thought. The current 2nd owner of the 34 Ford is looking for the contact info for the original owner and builder, so if I can contact the builder maybe he'll be honest with me about the car, as he no longer has a vested interest.

I have no illusions about profiting on a car, at best I hope to buy one and break even when selling. I'm not certain car values will ever reach the level they had attained in the past given the long-term American economic climate, but it does seem to be a buyers market, prices are still falling.
Joe

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Old 12-13-2010, 01:27 PM
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Thanks Guys

Currently in South Africa, a pre 1950 vehicle is very hard to come by. So I will just have to deal with the rust. I am going to cut the doors open and then treat them. floorboard are going to be replaced in any case.
thank you
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