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1940 chev coupe

897 views 6 replies 2 participants last post by  39 master 
#1 ·
Bought a 40 chev coupe that I tried buying before and finally got it this past wk end. I need to do a front suspension, it has a nova sub on it now. The S10 looks like the right width, which I have, but they seem to crowd things up. What's the most reasonable deal out there now? I done have a 8.8 explorer rearend, narrowed 3 in on the long side, disc brks and 31 spline axles. It has the 4 1/2 bolt pattern still. Any ideas?
 
#2 · (Edited)
40 Chevy coupe

Just finished a '39 Chevy. Used the WELDER SERIES Mustang II style front end. Used a 1979 T'bird power rack because it was cheaper had more turns lock to lock (non-sport) and works well with the GM power steering pump without a pressure reducer. Steering does not "dart". Because your front frame has been cut off you may need to build a new set of front rails. I used 2" x 4" 3/16" rectangular tubing. I widened mine a bit to get the A/C compressor mount low (LSX). Also used an Explorer 8.8 rear and air bags on the back. Parallel leafs give a good ride but takes lots of lowering blocks. Coilovers require adjustment if someone sits in the back seat but bags adjust with a push of the finger. I would also add a "K" member to further stiffen the frame. Bags are a cheaper way to go and good enough for motor homes and dump trucks.
 

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#3 ·
I was planning on narrowing the stk frame in the rear, it's really solid. If I can afford it, I'd like to go the route you did. Looks really nice. I have a 6.0, S475 BW turbo, 400 turbo trans and a explorer 8.8, 56 1/2 total width. Thanks
 
#4 ·
1940 Chevy

Over in the projects section I did a thread on building the frame. Actually the price, including welding materials should be well under $500 for the perimeter frame. You will have lots of HP so make sure you at least add a "K" member to counter frame twist.
 
#7 ·
1940 Chevy

Good for you, a score. Recommend you mock everything up to make sure the wheels are in the center of the opening and sits right. At ride height the crossmember should be level. Can't stress enough about getting everything right before welding. Good luck.
 
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