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Old 02-08-2008, 09:18 AM
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1940 Ford - Mustang ll suspension

I have a 1940 Ford Coupe with a progressive automotive front cross member, stock mustang ll upper & lower a frames & brakes, & a power rack. I bought the car 20 years ago, put the crossmember in, put a 10 bolt chevy rear in it & then due to a lack of time & money let it sit until 3 years ago. I cut out the bad floors & trunk & put in all new sheet metal and stripped the car to bare metal. I've spent 1-1/2 years on the body as a first time body man & it came out nice. I got a set of Billet Specalities Vintec wheels (15" 3-1/2 backspace) for it & put them on now that the fenders are on. Here's the problem the outside edge of the tires (195/60-15) are just about even with the edge of the fender & look like they will rub in a turn. Anyone know of a brake rotor kit or a frame set that will bring the wheels inboard about 1".
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Old 02-08-2008, 09:34 AM
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Brake tech solutions has a kit with 11" rotors that will return the hub to hub width to the original MII width, if the MII kit came with the 11" brake upgrade. I just put one on a 40 ford with a MII that had the stock 9.25" MII rotors and it didn't move the wheels out at all.


ECI has a similar kit.

If you have the stock brakes on the car now, I don't know of anything that will help..But give BTS a call, those guys are sharp with stuff like that, and may be able to set you up with some kind of solution that isn't normally available as OTC kits.

Hope this helps, Mikey
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Old 02-08-2008, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtbillr
Here's the problem the outside edge of the tires are just about even with the edge of the fender & look like they will rub in a turn.


Just another reason I prefer to keep a straight axle under a early Ford ...





Powerodsmike has covered your question better than I could ...

I actually owned two 40 Ford coupes at the same time. The black standard coupe above and a Blue 40 DeLuxe coupe with a Pinto/Mustang II IFS under it. The black standard with a dropped axle and a few leaves out of the springs actually rode and drove better to me. When I decided I did not need two 40 Fords at one time ... I sold the one with the IFS and kept the black one above.

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Old 02-08-2008, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtbillr
I have a 1940 Ford Coupe with a progressive automotive front cross member, stock mustang ll upper & lower a frames & brakes, & a power rack. I bought the car 20 years ago, put the crossmember in, put a 10 bolt chevy rear in it & then due to a lack of time & money let it sit until 3 years ago. I cut out the bad floors & trunk & put in all new sheet metal and stripped the car to bare metal. I've spent 1-1/2 years on the body as a first time body man & it came out nice. I got a set of Billet Specalities Vintec wheels (15" 3-1/2 backspace) for it & put them on now that the fenders are on. Here's the problem the outside edge of the tires (195/60-15) are just about even with the edge of the fender & look like they will rub in a turn. Anyone know of a brake rotor kit or a frame set that will bring the wheels inboard about 1".
You might need wheels with a 1" deeper offset. Use the attached handy dandy wheel worksheet (got this one off the Wheel Vintiques website) to figure out what you need, then contact one of the major wheel manufacturers to get what you need.

Hope this helps.

Antny
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File Type: pdf wheel_fitment.pdf (85.9 KB, 200 views)
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Old 02-08-2008, 11:22 AM
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THE TCI MII IFS (how's that for a whole slew of TLA's in a row) for 35-40 Fords come with 5/8" narrower A frames. I don't know if you could buy their arms and install them on your crossmember or not but might be worth looking at.

Cam
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Old 02-09-2008, 03:41 AM
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Remember, if you choose to put narrowed a arms(there are many manufacturers that make narrowed tubular a-arms for the stock small-base lowers with strut rods), that is not all you will have to change! You will: have to cut the ends of the steering rack and re-dress the threads,you may need to re-orient the front brake hoses-as they will now be closer to the frame or other abrasion points, and your sway bar(if so equipped)links will no longer be parallel-as the mounting points are now closer together! chassis engineering makes a narrowed sway bar for this application though! Your question,then is if it would be cheaper to buy a different offset wheel,or"re-invent the whole front end!!"
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Old 02-10-2008, 08:20 AM
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Patience is your biggest asset when building a street rod. Also, when it comes to fitting wheels and tires under a 35-40 Ford street rod front end, things are not always as they appear. Chances are, you will not have a clearance problem because when you turn your wheels, they tend to get farther from the fender vice closer. I have found that too much back spacing, which moves the outside edge of the tire inboard will cause the inside edge to get too close to the frame or contact the strut rod if you have those installed. Before starting to make changes, I would make sure the car has the final boarding weight resting on the wheels and make some turns to determine tire/fender clearance. My 36 coupe and my buds 41 business coupes both looked as though there would be a problem, but at the end of the build, there is plenty of clearance and both have been on the road for about 8 years and lots of miles. I am running 205 75 15s and he is running 205 70 15s.
Both have GM 11" rotors and our back spacing is 3.5" and 3.75" back spacing respectively.

My thoughts on this issue are only valid if the cross member installation was correct. If it was installed slightly forward of the design intent, all bets are off.

Trees
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