Hi guys I have a couple questions about my 1940 ford pickup project. This site seems to be a great source of information so I thought I might try posting a couple questions. I recently purchased a pickup box kit from "Last Refuge" and was wondering if anyone has any lessons learned or tips for assembling the box together?

I also have questions on the doors. Does anyone know of a company that makes door bottoms for ford pickups? Mine are see through. Does anyone have suggestions for getting the "tar" out of the inside of the doors? Any suggestions on aftermarket electric windows?

Here are some pictures of my project. One pic is of my 351w all built up, the other is of my 3 year old son helping me on the frame rails, and the last pic is of my crusty doors in question???

Thanks for all the help

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Should be able to get door skins from EMS out of Ohio.We had the "tar" problem on my daughters 37 Chev coupe and after some thought, I used a propane torch to just warm the gook up a little and scraped it out with a putty knife.

I agree with Don. The torch and putty knife was about the best way of doing my '46 as far as the the heavy stuff goes. Once I got most of it off with the torch I finished it off with aircraft paint remover. Put lots on and cleaned it off. If the original owner still owned the '46 I would buy shares in the tar company.Oh yeah, and when the hot tar falls on your arm don't try and wipe it off. It just makes the water blister twice the size. Just grit your teeth and swear like ***.

Thanks for the response guys. I did call EMS this morning and the gentleman said they did not do anything for Pickups. The search go on.

Thanks again

Northern Classic Truck parts can fix you up.

http://www.northernclassictrucks.com

Thanks for the link. Sheet metal will be ordered tomorrow.

If you can use the torch on the outside of the panel it will heat the surface of the tar that touches the sheetmetal enabeling it to be scraped off making much less smoke than if you apply heat to the tar directly. Just make sure you move the torch around and don't hold it in one area to long to avoid warpage.

The bed was probably made by a company named Mack Products and sold by Last Refuge.
http://www.mackhils.com/mack_products/
we bought an unassembled bed for a '32 from them, (Mack prod), and it came with no instructions to assemble it. Mack would have assembled it for us for 600.00 then shipped it whole, but they could supply us with no instructions. They wouldn't let me talk to the guy who assembled them either. We had a complete bed from a 34 to look at which helped some but the supporting frame was different enough to have us scratching our heads some. ( to further complicate matters we were putting the 32 bed on the 34 frame. No, they are not the same frame or bed). My advice to you would be to find a stock bed without the wood to look at the various part locations and attachment points. With our "kit" we got a bag with 45 million assorted rivets in different counts, shapes and sizes that seem to have no direct relationship to the panels they are supposed to fasten. ( ok, slightly less than 45 million) We temporarily put the bed together with 1/4 bolts to get an idea of how it goes together and which rivets to use. I have also found that setting rivets does require some skill to keep from dimpling the panel. I had better luck with a heavy bucking bar that I made out of a 8" piece of 1 1/2 X 2 steel bar and a rivet setter that goes in a air chisel. I have not finished this job yet so I too would be interested in any information regarding assembly details. I hope you find this at least a little helpful.

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