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Old 09-14-2010, 08:43 AM
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1941 - 1948' Chevrolet With Camaro Crossmember

First question, does a bolt on Camaro front cross memeber exist for the 41-48 Chevrolet?

I was originally going to use a S-10 frame (its already shortened and tacked together) but due to a lack of fabrication tools and knowledge I would be there for a decade and then there is a possibility that I may be forced to put the original frame underneath by provincial laws. (also why all mentors and teachers assure me its just spring sag, i'm pretty sure the frame is twisted slightly. So to avoid that hassle I would just like to a find a bolt in Camaro cross member similar to the mustang II with drop spindles I see everywhere. This however does not mean I'm going bolt on for everything. I just think it would be better in the end if I taught myself how to fabricate on items not so vital to vehicle saftey and operation,stuff like custom lights, dash, tilt front end and so on!

Second question, I have a ford 9 inch from a 80's f-150 with 3.70 gears. What is the best way to go about updating the rear suspension to attach this rear end?

I plan to correct the length by off setting the rims and widening the rear fenders.

Third Question, Are there kits available for x-ing and strengthening the frame? Or am i on my own for this one?

I've spent the last week's worth of evenings researching these topics since semi giving up on my S-10 frame and have drawn a bunch of blanks. ANy information helping me move forward with my project before the snow hits would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you in advance!

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Old 09-14-2010, 09:32 AM
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I know of one guy who was building crossmembers using GM components but he is in Oregon and you are in Winnepeg..communication may be an issue here..your car has paralled leaf springs does it not? then mounting a new rear end is not all that hard to do..Now if you are not confident of your own skills I believe that you can find someone with a chassis rack in your area that can straighten your chassis and install a new crossmember and rear for you..

I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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Old 09-14-2010, 10:10 AM
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Getting the pieces up north wont be a issue as long as they can be shipped to North Dakota, I have a friend who makes weekly runs down to his own warehouse for tools and car parts as part of his business.

Thank you for the imput!
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:32 PM
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No bolt in that I know of. You will need a 67-69 Camaro or a 68-? NOVA. You have to cut a couple of inches out of the center of the crossmember and weld it back together. Then you have to weld it to the frame. You may also have to go with narrowed A arms. You will have to move the motor mount locations. Camaro headers may not work since you narrowed the frame.

These cars are narrow. Mine had a 79-81 Camaro sub-frame under it. At full spring compression, the front wheels had to point straight ahead or you would rip the fenders off.

I ended up going to a salvage yard and getting a frame out from under a 4 door. I put a TCI MII in it. I will be adding plates putting the lower a-frame bolts in double shear.

If you want bolt on, check this out.

Unless the body is twisted, I doubt the frame is twisted. There are 22 (count them) bolts holding the body to the frame. That does not include those which hold the front clip on. Set the car on jack stands at the cowl and just before the front spring perches and start measuring. A plumb bob, tape measure and square will tell the story. Take measurements in X-patterns at as many locations as you can from side to side. And measure to the ground at various points. They don't have to be perfect. My guess is that when the car was new it probably had 1/8" tolerances at points.

Spring sag. One of two reasons you don't want to use the stock rear springs. The other is the locating bolt which will position a regular rear end too far forward. They usually have at least one broken leaf. They were designed to only hold the weight of the car up. The torque tube controlled the torque. Springs on an open drive-shaft rear end control the torque as well as hold the car up. This is a nice kit. Have one in my 41. http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/page27.html

If the stock K-member is solid, you probably don't need to do anything else. If you want to, you could run some round, square, or rectangular tubing from the tranny mount to the frame just at the front spring perches. My k-member is rusted out, so I will be building one out of 2x3 rectangular tubing. I have yet to decide about putting rearward tubes on it. Again, there are 22 bolts holding the body to the frame. The CE rear end kit adds a crossmember that the original lacks. (BTW you lose the spare tire well with this).
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:21 AM
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For your 41-48 suspension knowledge

Hey, just to let you know, I am building a 47' Stylemaster sedan and I've installed a bolt in TCI Mustang II front crossmember. Lower bolts directly into the original suspension bolt holes, upper hats simply need to be measured, lined up and welded in. Also for rear suspension I'm installing a bolt in kit for new two inch wide leafs that comes with shocks, mounts, leafs and the necessary hardware to install the rear diff. The kit is from Heidt's. Both kits are available through retailers in Canada. Mine are from The Old Car Center in Langly B.C. and Through KMS Carparts in Coquitlom B.C. With dropped spindles the front end is lowered about 6-7 inches, the rear with added lowing blocks will be down between 5-6 inches. Also rear diffs from capice classics of the 70's and 80's are 1/2 an inch wider than the stck 47 rearend.

Just thought I'd pass on the info.

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