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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2012, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
With the amount of work involved, I'd dive right in and start a chassis from scratch.

No better way to learn than that.

There also comes that nice fuzzy feeling you get from doing it yourself.

How do you address the bends needed to form the rails over the rear end and where it narrows in front? I don't have any equipment or press that could be used to form the bends?

Do you not worry about them and just build a straight rail frame? Not afraid to try something new and not one to shy away from a challenge, but not sure what is a proper way the ensure safety and decent ride height.

Thanks for all the tips and ideas, I am really appreciating the help.

Dennis

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2012, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacktail Sniper
How do you address the bends needed to form the rails over the rear end and where it narrows in front? I don't have any equipment or press that could be used to form the bends?

Do you not worry about them and just build a straight rail frame? Not afraid to try something new and not one to shy away from a challenge, but not sure what is a proper way the ensure safety and decent ride height.

Thanks for all the tips and ideas, I am really appreciating the help.

Dennis
Here's a thread for my first chassis build.
None of the bends were done with a machine of tube bender.
I have worked with metal for a long time but if things are done right, there's nothing to worry about.

Chassis

A couple of pics below showing how to make a bent tube.
I wouldn't attempt stainless but mild steel all MIG welded and using fish plates on the turns would be plenty strong.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2012, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Here's a thread for my first chassis build.
None of the bends were done with a machine of tube bender.
I have worked with metal for a long time but if things are done right, there's nothing to worry about.

Chassis

A couple of pics below showing how to make a bent tube.
I wouldn't attempt stainless but mild steel all MIG welded and using fish plates on the turns would be plenty strong.
VERY COOL! Just finished reading through and want to say that every one was right, that is beautiful work!!

I appreciate the pics and advice.

Thank you, Dennis
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2012, 07:27 PM
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Ithought you wanted a frame that would include all the things that you need.
Suspension
brakes
engine
tranny
steering
I was looking at craigslist at a 99 Dakota that is complete . Will run
He wanted $600. Something like that would be a great start.
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
The camero might be too wide, usually early nova rear steers work best. use later gm disc brakes. We built a rotisserie a few years ago and put a 48 jeepster on a 78 blazer frame LOTS and LOTS of work, rework to the jeepster floor, had to move the engine back in the chassis. that means rework clutch linkage, drive shafts, body mounts gas tank bumper mounts steering probably easier to build a new frame than all the rework If you were lucky you might find an olds frame of similar years, there is one on a neighbors farm but we have had trouble with his cows getting into our farm.
What year Nova does the rear-steering come in? I found a 72 Nova locally that me be reasonably obtained, 4 -door, six cylinder, kinda rough, but daily driver. Would make a great doner if the subframe is workable.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2012, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cape Cod Bob
Ithought you wanted a frame that would include all the things that you need.
Suspension
brakes
engine
tranny
steering
I was looking at craigslist at a 99 Dakota that is complete . Will run
He wanted $600. Something like that would be a great start.

What area posting on craigslist??
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2012, 12:34 AM
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It would be helpful if you posted your location.
For example, there is someone around my area trying to sell a complete 54 chevy frame roller for $200. I don't know if that would work for you, but I am sure if people knew where you are they would be able to give you some leads.
Russ
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2012, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russ69coupe
It would be helpful if you posted your location.
For example, there is someone around my area trying to sell a complete 54 chevy frame roller for $200. I don't know if that would work for you, but I am sure if people knew where you are they would be able to give you some leads.
Russ

Sorry about that! I put that info in when I registered I thought. Can't figure out how to get it to show here at the top either.

I am in Yelm, WA., near Olympia.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2012, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427
Considering the way the rearends sit about 1.5" forward in the rear wheelwells of a '41 I'd go slightly longer, not shorter. A wheelbase that centers the axle in the rear will give a nicer looking rod when finished.
I'd not start from scratch with a frame unless you really feel comfortable doing so. The rear is not as hard, but getting the geometry correct and square is important, and using a donor front frame will ensure it's not only right, but it will use all factory parts when you need anything later.
I'd go with any GM front frame or subframe that is the right width, and mate it to your stock frame. In the rear I'd use the stock frame, but build new spring perches to locate the axle center, and use an axle and springs from a donor car to fit to your modified frame mounts.
Sorry, didn't see this post till now. Problem is I do not have a stock frame, purchased the body only. That is why I am trying to come up with something workable.
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:44 PM
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If you don't have a stock frame it still doesn't mean you don't want to adjust to keep the wheels centered in the wheewells. I'd measure from wheelwell centers and then see what might be close.
As for building a frame, I'd not worry about bending, unless you were building a round tube frame. I'd use box tubing and cut it to form the offsets to go over the axle.
I you want to use a donor frame like a S10 then you have chices, as the S10 came in about 4 wheelbase lengths if I remember corectly. Find one that's long enough, even if it's a little too long. Then you can cut a section out and make it shorter to it. Plate the frame where you wled it together to add strength.
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
If you don't have a stock frame it still doesn't mean you don't want to adjust to keep the wheels centered in the wheewells. I'd measure from wheelwell centers and then see what might be close.
As for building a frame, I'd not worry about bending, unless you were building a round tube frame. I'd use box tubing and cut it to form the offsets to go over the axle.
I you want to use a donor frame like a S10 then you have chices, as the S10 came in about 4 wheelbase lengths if I remember corectly. Find one that's long enough, even if it's a little too long. Then you can cut a section out and make it shorter to it. Plate the frame where you wled it together to add strength.
Thanks, not so much worried about the centering in the wheelwells as I was figuring on having to blend a couple frames together anyway.

Just looking for a donor frame with proper paperwork. Plenty out there, but nobody seems to bother with titles or other proof of legal ownership papers.

Will have to pass a Washington State Patrol inspection and have to have proper documentation or will have wasted time and effort and not be able to register it.

Still holding out hope though, sooner or later something will turn up that has the proper paperwork!!
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:34 AM
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for ease of work, I'd look for a stock frame and go from there.
the 40 truck I'm working on had a frame that someone tried to add a 74 nova front sub.
Was an ok job but looked like it would be lots of work to hang the sheet metal.
I went and found a used frame and added a MII front and new springs in the rear.
Now i have a spot for the rad and all the body mounting points are in the right place.
just easier in my opinion.
On a nother note, i went to Washington and had a look at a nice 53 Chevy 1/2 ton. it was a resto mod with a 350 engine.
he said he had a title but back then when they titled it they used the engine block serial number.
guess what- the dmv said when he pulled the 6 cyl. block out, his title was null and void.
he had to get a custom Vin/title number for it and was told the truck couldn't be sold out of the state for 3 years! he can sell it with a bill of sale to someone in Washington but not out of state let out of the country. LOL
I have a little over 2 years left to wait lol.
so you might have to get it inspected for a custom Vin number but it will be worth it in the long run.
Keep looking. i'm sure one will surface.
In the mean time you could start on the body.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2012, 10:41 AM
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Not sure about Wa. regs, but in Oregon we just need receipts for all the pieces for a builder's title. So if you had receipts for the bady, frame, etc. (major components) then a builder's title is a snap here.
First thing you need to do before going in any direction is to contact the inspecting agency (DMV or state police) and see what they are going to ask you to show them. After that you can decide whether you can even start with a body that just has a bill of sale, or not.
I built my car from a titled vehicle, so that always makes everything easier. Took mine to DMV initially on a trailer and told them I wouldn't be saving anything but the bare shell, so they started by issuing an Oregon assigned VIN number, and putting it in a location that wouldn't be disturbed. After that it was just demolition and rebuilding.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2012, 11:15 AM
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Not sure about Wa. regs, but in Oregon we just need receipts for all the pieces for a builder's title. So if you had receipts for the bady, frame, etc. (major components) then a builder's title is a snap here.
First thing you need to do before going in any direction is to contact the inspecting agency (DMV or state police) and see what they are going to ask you to show them. After that you can decide whether you can even start with a body that just has a bill of sale, or not.
I built my car from a titled vehicle, so that always makes everything easier. Took mine to DMV initially on a trailer and told them I wouldn't be saving anything but the bare shell, so they started by issuing an Oregon assigned VIN number, and putting it in a location that wouldn't be disturbed. After that it was just demolition and rebuilding.
I have already done so, Washington is a titled state, and the frame is what is titled. The body/shell is just sheetmetal parts and I have the proper paperwork they said I needed for it.

But, if there is ANY part of a vehicle frame involved, no matter how small (this is from a face-to-face conversation with the Trooper who does the inspections), there must be a title, Release of Interest from owner, tow company AVR, or law enforcement issued hulk permit.

One basic thing that it boils down to here is that to legally sell something that is required to have a titled owner, you must be the person whose name appears on that title. Otherwise, it cannot be legally sold until the proper legal process has been followed, it can be done, costs a few bucks and takes some time. And, if the vehicle is listed stolen, it will be impounded by law enforcement and the seller gets nothing.

All these guys on craigslist for example, that are selling "Parts cars" with no title or just a bill of sale are doing so against the law, they are either just unaware of what is the legal way to do it, too lazy to take the effort & time or maybe trying to get a few bucks from a stolen car.

I don't want to waste time, effort, and money just to not be able to register and drive and enjoy it.

So, still plodding along trying to find something that will work. Sooner or later something will show up.

Thanks, hope you have a great 4th of July!

Dennis
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2012, 02:50 PM
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Washington's system seems to bring up all sorts of flaws in my mind. If you built a car using that system I would have a title for the body and frame, and then when the frame was removed and a donor frame used, I'd have to have a 2nd title for that frame.
At this point I guess the state would determine which title was used to make the new title. But if frame and body were separated, then both used on other projects, which one would get the title?
That's some crazy stuff there!
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