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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 11:54 AM
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Great snag man, thank you for saving that from the shredder. I hope you stick with it and build it. anyway here are some s-10 numbers for you. If the cab came with a title, I'd rock that and use an s-10 frame. I personally like the narrower aspect as you can add wheel spacers to get your desired tuck. also they are super easy to lower and get parts and are cheap and plentiful. You could always extend or shorten a frame if you have the proper welder and skills.

S-10
Regular cab short box - 108.3"
Regular cab long box - 117.9"
Extended cab short box -122.9"

Track width

reg 54.4"Front 54.6"Rear
4x4 is about 57.2"F 55.1"R

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 12:46 PM
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You can do it!

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Originally Posted by OneMoreTime View Post
You may wish to consider fabricating a frame..I would use the front crossmember from an S-10 and then use box tubing for the rest of it..the rear portion of the S-10 with the axle and spring hangers may work for you as well..the main difficulty with the S-10 chassis in the stock form is that it has a lot of curves and such which make life difficult in th mounting of the body and the wheel base may not match up..

Sam
x2 Don't worry so much about bending the tubing and such, compound cuts and some geometry will get you what you need.
I have a 47 fleetmaster. I plan on using the stock frame for simplicity but i realize you don't have that luxury. I wish you best of luck!
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 01:30 PM
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If it was me, I'd find a junkyard Jag XJS or XJ6 and grab the suspension both ends. Then, build a new frame from 2x4 & 2x6 tubing.

I'm building my 2nd such right now, for a 57 pickup.
I'm very tempted to throw in a Jag 6 with triple carbs & dual exhaust..
The glorious sound would fool the troops until you stood on it.
And, if anybody remembers, an early XKE would run right with a FI Vette...
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 02:09 PM
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'40 Chev Chassis

I have a 40 Pontiac (same body as the Chev, just a little longer in the front sheet metal) and installed a 68 Camaro front sub frame (rear steer) but I narrowed it 3" to bring the tires into the fenders, stock width is too wide if you want a low car. Use 3" masking tape to mark the width and use a Sawzall to cut it. Cut the steering center lin and sway bar the same way. Weld back together (yes, you can welld a sway bar) Be sure to attach the sub frame to the stock frame back away from where the A-arms are located or the car will sit too high. You should be able to find articles on how to subframe a car using a Camaro or Nova sub.

For the rear I used the stock springs (got plastic inserts rather than the stock metal ones for the front and rear eyes) The axle is from a '67 Camaro and has lowering blocks to set the ride height.

Car drives, rides and handles great. Sits right too. I'll try and download a picture so you can see how it sits.


Dale
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 03:41 PM
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41 chevy

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Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
Considering the way the rearends sit about 1.5" forward in the rear wheelwells of a '41 I'd go slightly longer, not shorter. A wheelbase that centers the axle in the rear will give a nicer looking rod when finished.
I'd not start from scratch with a frame unless you really feel comfortable doing so. The rear is not as hard, but getting the geometry correct and square is important, and using a donor front frame will ensure it's not only right, but it will use all factory parts when you need anything later.
I'd go with any GM front frame or subframe that is the right width, and mate it to your stock frame. In the rear I'd use the stock frame, but build new spring perches to locate the axle center, and use an axle and springs from a donor car to fit to your modified frame mounts.
I did a 40, 2dr. sedan, I used org. frame, I redrilled the rear spring and move the tie bolt in the springs to center the rear end. I notched the front end and welded a mustant front end in place of the old 1. you can buy a cross frame that will bolt or weld inplace, and just use the parts from the mustang to save money. I used chevy rotors and got bearing that fit the spindles and rotors made the brackits to put on chevy calipers (which you can buy an bolt on) you can use dropped spindle if you want it lower in the front. I made a tape or building it,pass it on with the car. you might see my jounal. ton-of-luck. where's the spelling check button?
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 04:40 PM
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If you go to:
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...l_measurements
You'll find are wheelbase, Front track, Rear track for multiple vehicles.
For your car I would suggest looking at a 94-96 Chevy Caprice Wheelbase, 115.9 Wheelbase, 61.8 front track and 60.7 rear track.
I bought a similar Roadmaster for donor parts and it runs great.
These are full frame vehicles and with different wheels and tires I think this may work for you.
The cars can be found with a LT1 V8 9C1 Police Sedan or Wagon, and 4 speed automatic trans.
Depending on how wide your 41 is, you may have to narrow the frame at the mid section, so check that out before you buy.
If you want OB2 diagnostics, then get a '96, the first year for that.
I considered a frame swap, as well, but I have a good frame and my car has a longer wheelbase, so I'm just using drivetrain, brakes, seats, and elect.
Check out ratrodsrule.com and killbillet.com, as well because guys on those sites do frame swaps all the time.
Mutt

Last edited by Mutt's37Buick; 07-11-2012 at 05:10 PM.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 09:56 PM
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How the heck did I miss this thread???
some good reading...
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2012, 12:13 AM
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Never ending

Hey, Dennis just found UR recent request asking fo ideas about putting Ur 41 together. I'll start by informing U its up to UR budget and skills about frabrication, (doing it yourself). I have a 47 Chevy fleetside 4D business man/family coupe, (same frame used on forty GM cars) and I installed a stock 78 Camaro (front steer) clip to mine and wished I had gone another way, because the front clip is too wide, limiting my choice of rims and tires. I made it worked because the clip was bought very cheap. Made my own cross member for the turbo 350, and used a set of rear leafs from a 77 Ford Granada with front and rear hangers, (re-leafed and teflan sleeves installed). And shochs from a mid seventies half ton chevy p/u. Did not like the ride height, stiffness and the looks for the 77 Caddy Seville disc brake rearend. So I got to looking @ the trianuglated suspenion system on mid 70's to 80's Ford and Chevy system. So I decided to go that way, but designing my own in the process. After looking @ the trianugulted system availiable from the market, the only company came close for a kit is AirRide Techlogies, (air bag, or not) for the forties GM chassis. But that kit was still beyond my budget. So, back to the junkyard with my tape. And now I have made my own triangulted system, using late 80's to mid 2000 forien car systems, (very lowbuck) and rod ends from Speedway motors. Keep in mind, I have been working on this car for 9 years, building it my way using parts from what already has been made from the manufacturer, saving me a ton of money. Also during that time I have been stricken with prostate cancer, for which I beat, but took 4 years out of my life during the process. I have a total of 3,500 tied up in funds on it. If U would like for me to send pic's, I need your email. Goodluck...Colorodan
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2012, 11:51 AM
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Hi
Just read this entire thread. Some things to take into account. Unless you've built a frame before, or have lots of welding practice and tools, you may find building your own way too complex for your first build. Frame swaps then become a little easier, but again require alot of modifications. Buying a frame made for the vehicle then becomes the easiest of the three choices. Ultimately projectas like this start off with a thought, heck I only need to do this, I could pick something used up and make it work. Years later those projects are getting ready for the scrapper, and someone else comes along to buy them.
I don't know if this is your first project or if you've done this before, that makes a huge difference on what path to take. Experience does too. Most of the hard core hot rodders have done this stuff all their lives, so to them it's easy to fabricate, weld, paint, wire, plumb, do sheet metal work, and they can keep their costs way down by doing it all themselves. But if this is your first venture into a project like this, making it simple as possible will equal a better chance of completing it.
I don't say this to upset you or try to disuade you from whatever approach to this you want to take. I've been working on a 48 ford truck for almost 5 years. It came with lots of stuff already done and lots of parts. All I had to do was convert the front brakes to disc, replumb all the brake line, put a new rear axle that would work with my engine, and rebuild a motor, and transmission. The problem starts when you deviate from the normal parts list. Then you start searching for other that have gone that route.
One thing I wish I would have done from the beginning was buy a whole new rolling frame( I just couldn't afford it!). When you look at a sticker price of ten grand you think, I'm not spending that much. But as you work on what you have over the years time, money and frustration start to add up to, in the end it sometimes comes out better to not to try to reinvent the wheel in the first place.
I think starting with a donor frame from the same model and year would be a good inexpensive start. Doing the 350 chevy v8 and matching tranny another good choice. One question to think on is what am I willing to spend time wise and financially for this car? All of us who are honest will tell you in this economy you can buy a used project in progress or one running for a lot less than you can build that same project for! If you love the 41 bodystyle that is a good start.
I hope you don't take this posting the wrong way, it's just alot of us wish someone would have pointed out certain stuff to us too at the beginning.
All of that said, it's a great learning process, the pride from figuring out something yourself, or doing the work yourself, it a great reward. I personally have little experience in this hot rod world, but have learned a ton from forums like this one, with lots of good folks there to offer advice, and solutions.
If you have experience in this area then please ignore everything I have said, I just wanted to say that it's a long process and no matter how much you can do yourself, it is not inexpensive. I look foward to following your project and see that 41 running on the road again! Steve.
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:44 PM
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41 chassis

The way I addressed the 1.5" forward set of the rear axel is I drilled offset holes in the lowering blocks and shifted the rear axel towards the back to center the wheels.

Dale
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2012, 03:47 PM
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Mutt's37 has a good idea about the Caprice/Impala frame. I have a complete chassis from a '95 Impala SS, including engine, trans, wiring harness, brakes, wheels....everything except the body. But, I'm in Texas...no help to you. However, I can get measurements, etc if you need and decide to try one of these swaps. Bill.
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Old 07-12-2012, 04:13 PM
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What have you lokked at so far? It should probably be a truck as that would be more likely to have a full frame.
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Old 07-12-2012, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssimpala View Post
Mutt's37 has a good idea about the Caprice/Impala frame. I have a complete chassis from a '95 Impala SS, including engine, trans, wiring harness, brakes, wheels....everything except the body. But, I'm in Texas...no help to you. However, I can get measurements, etc if you need and decide to try one of these swaps. Bill.
Real rough, round numbers, the front track width is about 4" too wide.

I have found two that will work, with some modification for mounting, one being a 1955-57 Chevy car wheelbase @ 115" with the 41 @ 116", the front track is 58 16/32" on 55-57 & the 41 is 57 21/32" with rear track is spot on @ 60" for both.

I do have a 55 frame with broken rearend, front steering & suspension still attached waiting for me to pick-up. It is free, but 75 miles away.

The other one, and what I am currently looking for, reasonably priced, is the 1978 & up Chevy El Camino. Wheelbase is just over 117", so the centering of the wheels in the rear wells will be solved, the front track is 58 16/32", the rear is a tad narrow, but those in 60" lengths are easy to find.

Bonus on the El Camino will be in the suspension, engine mounting, etc., already set up for a V-8. Now just shopping around my area for a reasonably priced, V-8 car in complete or mostly complete condition to use as the donor. But, I do have the 55 frame as a fall back if necessary.

Thanks, Dennis
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2012, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kittypancake View Post
What have you lokked at so far? It should probably be a truck as that would be more likely to have a full frame.
Most of the GM, mid-size rear wheel drive cars from about 1987 or maybe 88 back have full frames, Malibu, Regal, Cutlass, etc.

Working on finding a 1978 & up El Camino, as I said in my reply above, the numbers just work out real good for a match.

Thanks, Dennis
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2012, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvsapp View Post
i have to disagree with this. my 63 nova i know exactly where the VIN is stamped into the body(being that it's a unibody with no frame). and it does match the vin tag on the firewall as well as in the door jamb.

as for the rear steering nova's you want the first gen 62-67 setup(but it's not very great with geometry) personally i'd recommend MII and a rack.
I was referring to cars from the 20's thru 40's...
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