[Mojo56]

Originally Posted by Blacktail Sniper

True, especially on those older ones. But I have located a 1955 Chevy frame, most measurements are close enough to use it as a start, then graft a newer front clip on it. I just need to get there and pick it up...about 75 miles away, but free is a very good price.

And, yes, while it is just a bare, but roller frame with no body or firewall, it does have the VIN stamped into the frame rail, as do a lot of cars & trucks. So I can obtain the proper paperwork from that and get a registration with no hassles.

I appreciate everyone's comments, tips, thoughts and sugguestions, now...on to the next step in this little adventure!!!!

Ahhh... but won't the title then say it's a '55 Chevy? Just asking... do you attend any swap meets? have you asked about finding a frame on the Antique Automobile Club of America site? Or Chevy Talk - Chevy / Chevy Message Boards for the Chevy Enthusiast

I'm vending t a swap this weekend... over 4400 swap spots... you have to get out and find what you need.

[Mojo56]

late 1930's 1938 38 ?? chevy Frame Chassis Undercarriage vintage | eBay

[timothale]

That E bay frame has way too much rusted out cancered places Only good for a pattern If you are making a new one.

[Mutt's37Buick]

Still recommend taking another look at 92-96 Chevy Caprice, Impala SS, or Buick Roadmaster.
These cars have a front track of 61.8 & rear track of 60.7 with center line wheels.
If you go to:
5x5 Bolt Pattern Compatibility List - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
you will see that 99-06 Jeep Cherokees have 5 x 5 bolt pattern and they a have high negative offset on their stock wheels of 1.75" per wheel.
Using wheels for a Cherokee on a Caprice style chasis will result in a front track of 58.3 and rear track of 57.2.
A 41 Chevy is not listed, but if it is close to the 42 Chevy then it would be 57.6 front track and 60 rear which is pretty close.
I recommend that you find out the actual inside to inside clearance of the fenders on a same year as your car because most had have lots more clearance built in than current rodders want.
Still not saying swap will be easy, in fact experienced rodders I talked to said it was far from it because of all the fab required to hold everything in right place.
Ultimately one of the main reasons I stuck with the original frame is I did not want to end up with an old body bolted to a new car chassis.
Just did not have the same appeal to me.
But everyone should build their car the way they want.
One of the coolest things about this craft is the variety and originallity.

[Blacktail Sniper]

Originally Posted by Mojo56

Ahhh... but won't the title then say it's a '55 Chevy? Just asking... do you attend any swap meets? have you asked about finding a frame on the Antique Automobile Club of America site? Or Chevy Talk - Chevy / Chevy Message Boards for the Chevy Enthusiast

I'm vending t a swap this weekend... over 4400 swap spots... you have to get out and find what you need.

No, they just want to make sure that there is proper documentation from where all the major parts came from. When inspected by WSP, they will issue me a new VIN and it will be registered as a 1941 Chevrolet.

RCW 46.12.711: Street rod vehicles.

http://apps.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=46.12.695

[deadbodyman]

Here in Ga. You dont need a title until 85 and newer just a bill of sale ...unless you TELL them you swaped the frame with an frame thats 85 or newer.then (what most guys dont know) all you have to do is go to the sheriffs dept and have them take the ID #'s of the frame AND the body to see if its stolen,it takes about 30 minutes and if alls good, they give you a piece of paper saying its ok to register it...its free..
On 85 and newer if you dont have a title (lets say you lost it or bought a parts car without one) you can get a bonded title for 100.00,you do the same thing (no charge) and you just pay the ins.co. 100.00 for a bonded title ,go to DMV and your on the road....If you dont know this and just go to the DMV they will charge you a tax for every year it wasnt registerd ,for my car that was 30 years and was over 1,000.00 I got my 48 Ply insured for 68'00 for 6 mounths but I still have to pay the normal regisration costs that are way less than 100.00( havent done it yet) but its insured and thats the important part..
You can also register a car as part of a collection that only gets driven a few miles a year and save a ton...every state is different but almost the same so do a little research on some other car sites also with "titling a car "as your search ,thats what I did and learned a whole lot and saved a lot I knew more than the girl at the counter ,she had to get her boss to varify what I said...Dont wait untill your almost done (like I did),to find out what you have to do , get it done first ,even if the shop burns down ,the cars is insured whether your driving it or not ...most Ins companies will insure a car for set value (like a painting) so cover your butt and get it insured and your 3/4s of the way there ...Titles are easy....dont worry about it..

[Blacktail Sniper]

Okay, picked-up a 1980 El Camino, complete except for a few minor things here & there. The measurements work out for setting the 41's body on it so gonna go that route.

Thanks everyone for all the tips, ideas, leads and such. Very much appreciated.

The elky was a V-6 car originally. The fella I got it from put what he thought was a 327 in it.

Didn't have time to get it off the dolly before I ran out of daylight, so its still sitting in the driveway. But I did grab the numbers stamped on the pad in front of the passenger side head & pulled the valve cover and got the casting # for the head.

Head is a Camel Hump #3890462, no assy holes. Date code says Nov 10, 1966

Tomorrow in the daylight I will get the Elky off the dolly and get the block casting number and see what that says.

But having trouble with the partial VIN on the engine pad:

FI223HD & 4LL132206. Struggling with the "LL" in the partial VIN, not finding any thing that matches.

Decoded the FI223HD number: either a 67 - 327 Corvette or 69 350 Chevelle, Camaro or Nova.

Anyone want to take a shot at the partial VIN???

Thanks, Dennis

[Blacktail Sniper]

I have reached a roadblock on identifying the engine.

Narrowed it down to a 1967 327 (casting #3858180 = 1967, 327 ci).

The conflict is in the partial vin and the engine number stamped into the front pad.

Enginge number FI223HD decodes as: Flint assembly plant, Dec 23rd, 1967 327 Vette or 1969 350 Camaro, Chevelle or Nova.

Partial VIN (4LL132206), indicates a possible 1967 Chevy truck. Issue is the extra "L" in the VIN, can only find examples with 1 letter in that position, never 2.

Any thoughts or clues? Maybe a hiccup when the VIN was stamped and an extra "L" included???

Thanks, Dennis