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Blacktail Sniper 06-22-2012 07:52 PM

1941 Chevy 2-door saved from the crusher!
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My name is Dennis and this is my first time on this site.

I am looking for a source of information about working on and hot rodding my 1941 Chevy 2 door Master Deluxe.

I joined one other forum, but was told that it was mainly a purist forum and that I would find little help with my questions.

What I need to know at this point is what newer model vehicles have frames (116" wheelbase) that I can put under my 41 and what type of modifications were needed, were some particular models easier than others?

I was told that I should just use the original, but there is the rub. The original was destroyed by the previous owner, so all I have is the body shell. I need a frame anyway before I can go any farther, and would like to upgrade to newer brake, suspension, etc anyway.

Any info, tips or other websights I can investigate will be greatly appreciated. A little history on my 41, I picked it up because the guy had torn it down completely and sent it to media blast, then brought it home and there it sat in storage for the last 7 years until his wife started on him about getting rid of it.

It was headed to the crusher when I was able to obtain it. Now I want to spend the next few months working on bringing it back and first order of business is getting a frame under it so it will roll.

Any and all help will be appreciated!!

Thanks, Dennis

Cape Cod Bob 06-22-2012 08:02 PM

google 41 chevy frame swap and go from there. Can do a search on here.too. I have found forums that deal with just frame swaps. :welcome:

Blacktail Sniper 06-22-2012 08:42 PM

Thanks, I have been doing that for a while now. I find most tend towards S10 frames going under trucks, or adding a different front clip or rear to the existing stock frame.

I am hoping that somebody here has done or tried to do this on a car and will have some first hand insight, warnings, anything good or bad will help and is welcome!

But, thank you, I do appreciate the quick reply.


probird 06-22-2012 09:50 PM

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probably the first thing to figure out is what is your budget?
I'm working on a 40 Chev truck but I'm trying to do it on a reasonable budget.
not to sure what that is but trying to keep it around 10g's
most of the project i can do myself but some ill have to fork out for.
how bout you?
i went with a stock frame, added a heights ifs front end and new leafs in the rear.
That comes to about 3500. i have an engine, tranny, and rear end(74 nova)
the rest ill look for at swap meets and on-line.
just some ideas to shoot to you.
good save. it looks to be mostly all there.

Blacktail Sniper 06-22-2012 11:31 PM

Thanks, I am doing as much as I can on my own. This is the first frame swap I have done though, so looking forward to giving it a shot.

I figure I got about 80% of 80% of a vehicle. Just couldn't see letting it go to the crusher.

Thanks, Dennis

delawarebill 06-23-2012 07:12 AM

can't believe someone would have crushed that...
nice find... good price i hope...

probird 06-23-2012 08:45 AM

if you don't have a frame, you could find a good used one and add a MII front etc or buy one here
the latter would be easier but more expensive.
good luck and have fun!
now I'm out to the garage on a rainy day! lol

OneMoreTime 06-23-2012 09:27 AM

You may wish to consider fabricating a frame..I would use the front crossmember from an S-10 and then use box tubing for the rest of it..the rear portion of the S-10 with the axle and spring hangers may work for you as well..the main difficulty with the S-10 chassis in the stock form is that it has a lot of curves and such which make life difficult in th mounting of the body and the wheel base may not match up..


Blacktail Sniper 06-23-2012 11:28 PM


Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
You may wish to consider fabricating a frame..I would use the front crossmember from an S-10 and then use box tubing for the rest of it..the rear portion of the S-10 with the axle and spring hangers may work for you as well..the main difficulty with the S-10 chassis in the stock form is that it has a lot of curves and such which make life difficult in th mounting of the body and the wheel base may not match up..


I was thinking something close to that, but was considering a Camaro sub-frame. I have located a 74 shell w/rear end also for a decent price, any thoughts on whether it would fit?

Thanks, Dennis

timothale 06-24-2012 08:53 AM

The camero might be too wide, usually early nova rear steers work best. use later gm disc brakes. We built a rotisserie a few years ago and put a 48 jeepster on a 78 blazer frame LOTS and LOTS of work, rework to the jeepster floor, had to move the engine back in the chassis. that means rework clutch linkage, drive shafts, body mounts gas tank bumper mounts steering probably easier to build a new frame than all the rework If you were lucky you might find an olds frame of similar years, there :mad: is one on a neighbors farm but we have had trouble with his cows getting into our farm.

Blacktail Sniper 06-24-2012 11:23 AM

Thanks for the info. The floor is where the majority of the rust is, so needs done either way.

I have spoken to a fellow near here that has a 46 for sale and it is sitting on a 74 Cutlass frame. He didn't do that part himself, but has been working under it on what he wanted done and he said it was a fairly clean swap. No mods to the frame, fits well and only mounting point mods on the body.

1973 - 77 GM 4 door & station wagons have the 116" wheelbase, but try and find one now that I am looking...but Camaros seem to be all over the place here! Probably because they won't work....go figure.

Anyway, I appreciate all the help and tips from everybody. I am looking into all suguestions and following-up on all ideas, I really appreciate it!


Blacktail Sniper 06-25-2012 01:48 PM

Any thoughts on a 1955 Chevy 2 door frame? It was a convertible, but has had the center "X" removed, so it will need some bracing, but it is a roller with a bad rearend (hole in housing) and still has front suspension & steering.

My internet research shows wheelbase is short 1" at 115", and track width is about an 1" wider in front (57 21/32" on the 1941 vs 58 16/32" on the 1955) and both are right on at 60" for the rear.

I am thinking this may be my best bet yet, short of finding someone that has an actual 1941 frame.

What do you guys think...worth the effort?

Its free, just have to go get it.

123pugsy 06-25-2012 03:47 PM

With the amount of work involved, I'd dive right in and start a chassis from scratch.

No better way to learn than that.

There also comes that nice fuzzy feeling you get from doing it yourself. :thumbup:

frankdelrees 06-25-2012 04:39 PM

'41 tudor
You might connect with someone from the Vintage Chevrolet Club. They have chapters all over the US. I caution you to not mention 'hotrod" or "streetrod" as it can cause some to become ballistic. They would be more upset if you were looking for sheetmetal to "slice up". Also check Hemmings Motor News as you can find almosty anything there. Frank Braunlich In California (near LAX)

1971BB427 06-25-2012 05:30 PM

Considering the way the rearends sit about 1.5" forward in the rear wheelwells of a '41 I'd go slightly longer, not shorter. A wheelbase that centers the axle in the rear will give a nicer looking rod when finished.
I'd not start from scratch with a frame unless you really feel comfortable doing so. The rear is not as hard, but getting the geometry correct and square is important, and using a donor front frame will ensure it's not only right, but it will use all factory parts when you need anything later.
I'd go with any GM front frame or subframe that is the right width, and mate it to your stock frame. In the rear I'd use the stock frame, but build new spring perches to locate the axle center, and use an axle and springs from a donor car to fit to your modified frame mounts.

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