1941 Chevy 2-door saved from the crusher! - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> General Rodding Tech
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2012, 07:52 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Yelm, WA
Posts: 26
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
1941 Chevy 2-door saved from the crusher!

Hi,

My name is Dennis and this is my first time on this site.

I am looking for a source of information about working on and hot rodding my 1941 Chevy 2 door Master Deluxe.

I joined one other forum, but was told that it was mainly a purist forum and that I would find little help with my questions.

What I need to know at this point is what newer model vehicles have frames (116" wheelbase) that I can put under my 41 and what type of modifications were needed, were some particular models easier than others?

I was told that I should just use the original, but there is the rub. The original was destroyed by the previous owner, so all I have is the body shell. I need a frame anyway before I can go any farther, and would like to upgrade to newer brake, suspension, etc anyway.

Any info, tips or other websights I can investigate will be greatly appreciated. A little history on my 41, I picked it up because the guy had torn it down completely and sent it to media blast, then brought it home and there it sat in storage for the last 7 years until his wife started on him about getting rid of it.

It was headed to the crusher when I was able to obtain it. Now I want to spend the next few months working on bringing it back and first order of business is getting a frame under it so it will roll.

Any and all help will be appreciated!!

Thanks, Dennis
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1436.JPG
Views:	477
Size:	873.6 KB
ID:	66267   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1440.JPG
Views:	489
Size:	779.1 KB
ID:	66268   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1442.JPG
Views:	402
Size:	739.7 KB
ID:	66269   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1443.JPG
Views:	383
Size:	784.6 KB
ID:	66270   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1444.JPG
Views:	351
Size:	796.7 KB
ID:	66271  


    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2012, 08:02 PM
Cape Cod Bob's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: How to title a hot rod Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: MA
Posts: 1,116
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 15 Posts
google 41 chevy frame swap and go from there. Can do a search on here.too. I have found forums that deal with just frame swaps.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2012, 08:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Yelm, WA
Posts: 26
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks, I have been doing that for a while now. I find most tend towards S10 frames going under trucks, or adding a different front clip or rear to the existing stock frame.

I am hoping that somebody here has done or tried to do this on a car and will have some first hand insight, warnings, anything good or bad will help and is welcome!

But, thank you, I do appreciate the quick reply.

Dennis
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2012, 09:50 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: alberta
Posts: 32
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
probably the first thing to figure out is what is your budget?
I'm working on a 40 Chev truck but I'm trying to do it on a reasonable budget.
not to sure what that is but trying to keep it around 10g's
most of the project i can do myself but some ill have to fork out for.
how bout you?
i went with a stock frame, added a heights ifs front end and new leafs in the rear.
That comes to about 3500. i have an engine, tranny, and rear end(74 nova)
the rest ill look for at swap meets and on-line.
just some ideas to shoot to you.
good save. it looks to be mostly all there.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	036.jpg
Views:	115
Size:	50.4 KB
ID:	66273  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2012, 11:31 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Yelm, WA
Posts: 26
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks, I am doing as much as I can on my own. This is the first frame swap I have done though, so looking forward to giving it a shot.

I figure I got about 80% of 80% of a vehicle. Just couldn't see letting it go to the crusher.

Thanks, Dennis
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2012, 07:12 AM
delawarebill's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: delaware
Posts: 1,177
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 55 Times in 55 Posts
can't believe someone would have crushed that...

nice find... good price i hope...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2012, 08:45 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: alberta
Posts: 32
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
if you don't have a frame, you could find a good used one and add a MII front etc or buy one here
http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/41CI.htm
the latter would be easier but more expensive.
good luck and have fun!
now I'm out to the garage on a rainy day! lol
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2012, 09:27 AM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 69
Posts: 7,200
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 36
Thanked 119 Times in 115 Posts
You may wish to consider fabricating a frame..I would use the front crossmember from an S-10 and then use box tubing for the rest of it..the rear portion of the S-10 with the axle and spring hangers may work for you as well..the main difficulty with the S-10 chassis in the stock form is that it has a lot of curves and such which make life difficult in th mounting of the body and the wheel base may not match up..

Sam
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2012, 11:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Yelm, WA
Posts: 26
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
You may wish to consider fabricating a frame..I would use the front crossmember from an S-10 and then use box tubing for the rest of it..the rear portion of the S-10 with the axle and spring hangers may work for you as well..the main difficulty with the S-10 chassis in the stock form is that it has a lot of curves and such which make life difficult in th mounting of the body and the wheel base may not match up..

Sam
I was thinking something close to that, but was considering a Camaro sub-frame. I have located a 74 shell w/rear end also for a decent price, any thoughts on whether it would fit?

Thanks, Dennis
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2012, 08:53 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: General Motors transmissions Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: near Yellowstone park
Posts: 4,185
Wiki Edits: 27

Thanks: 11
Thanked 231 Times in 217 Posts
width?

The camero might be too wide, usually early nova rear steers work best. use later gm disc brakes. We built a rotisserie a few years ago and put a 48 jeepster on a 78 blazer frame LOTS and LOTS of work, rework to the jeepster floor, had to move the engine back in the chassis. that means rework clutch linkage, drive shafts, body mounts gas tank bumper mounts steering probably easier to build a new frame than all the rework If you were lucky you might find an olds frame of similar years, there is one on a neighbors farm but we have had trouble with his cows getting into our farm.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2012, 11:23 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Yelm, WA
Posts: 26
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the info. The floor is where the majority of the rust is, so needs done either way.

I have spoken to a fellow near here that has a 46 for sale and it is sitting on a 74 Cutlass frame. He didn't do that part himself, but has been working under it on what he wanted done and he said it was a fairly clean swap. No mods to the frame, fits well and only mounting point mods on the body.

1973 - 77 GM 4 door & station wagons have the 116" wheelbase, but try and find one now that I am looking...but Camaros seem to be all over the place here! Probably because they won't work....go figure.

Anyway, I appreciate all the help and tips from everybody. I am looking into all suguestions and following-up on all ideas, I really appreciate it!

Dennis
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2012, 01:48 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Yelm, WA
Posts: 26
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Any thoughts on a 1955 Chevy 2 door frame? It was a convertible, but has had the center "X" removed, so it will need some bracing, but it is a roller with a bad rearend (hole in housing) and still has front suspension & steering.

My internet research shows wheelbase is short 1" at 115", and track width is about an 1" wider in front (57 21/32" on the 1941 vs 58 16/32" on the 1955) and both are right on at 60" for the rear.

I am thinking this may be my best bet yet, short of finding someone that has an actual 1941 frame.

What do you guys think...worth the effort?

Its free, just have to go get it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2012, 03:47 PM
123pugsy's Avatar
HOT ROD...... FROM A CHRYSLER?
 
Last wiki edit: Metal shaping
Last journal entry: FLOOR BEADS
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Markham,ON
Age: 52
Posts: 2,331
Wiki Edits: 29

Thanks: 383
Thanked 242 Times in 212 Posts
With the amount of work involved, I'd dive right in and start a chassis from scratch.

No better way to learn than that.

There also comes that nice fuzzy feeling you get from doing it yourself.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2012, 04:39 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 2
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
'41 tudor

You might connect with someone from the Vintage Chevrolet Club. They have chapters all over the US. I caution you to not mention 'hotrod" or "streetrod" as it can cause some to become ballistic. They would be more upset if you were looking for sheetmetal to "slice up". Also check Hemmings Motor News as you can find almosty anything there. Frank Braunlich In California (near LAX).frankdelrees@aol.com
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2012, 05:30 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,413
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 11
Thanked 208 Times in 179 Posts
Considering the way the rearends sit about 1.5" forward in the rear wheelwells of a '41 I'd go slightly longer, not shorter. A wheelbase that centers the axle in the rear will give a nicer looking rod when finished.
I'd not start from scratch with a frame unless you really feel comfortable doing so. The rear is not as hard, but getting the geometry correct and square is important, and using a donor front frame will ensure it's not only right, but it will use all factory parts when you need anything later.
I'd go with any GM front frame or subframe that is the right width, and mate it to your stock frame. In the rear I'd use the stock frame, but build new spring perches to locate the axle center, and use an axle and springs from a donor car to fit to your modified frame mounts.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent General Rodding Tech posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1963 chevy impala saved from becoming crushed austonez63 Hotrodding Basics 1 04-05-2011 08:08 AM
1941 Chevy Door Question Russgolfs General Rodding Tech 1 10-27-2010 12:50 AM
Plytmouth 1941 4 door custom Parisienne70 Hotrodding Basics 2 10-03-2007 10:39 AM
Plymouth 1941 custom 4 door, project Parisienne70 Engine 3 09-28-2007 09:05 PM
Plymouth 1941 custom 4 door, project Parisienne70 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 1 09-28-2007 09:48 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.