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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2012, 11:01 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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By the way, another thought is after you move into the community you could even go the route of selling the sheetmetal you bought and go ahead and put it on a modern frame and build your floors the way you want.

I went and looked at your photos and I see that they had a lot of overhang on the front end with the radiator looking like it was further forward than original. At least this is how it looks to me, were the front fenders and hood extended or something? Man that hood looks long and the radiator hanging out there a mile. I could be just me but man it looks long at least in the one photo.


Brian

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2012, 09:02 AM
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1949 to 1957 Chevy cars had 115" wheelbases, and the track width was always close. 1948 would have 116" wheelbase with a close track width.. Any of these would be a pretty decent swap. '49-'54 would be the closest I think. Suspension in them is very decent IFS for there time, some even got a sway bar, and it's all available to rebuild at your local autoparts store.

Some S10's have a wheelbase that will work for that, but they kick up behind the cab, so there not great for cars.. S10 blazer frame would be good as it's the same level all the way back, but it's wayy to short. you would need to lengthen it to correct the wheelbase
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2012, 09:05 AM
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A 41 to 48 Chevy frame, any model, will bolt under your car. The convertible frame has an X member, but will still fit.

As for a modern frame, mid 80s Toyota pickup frame is a near bolt in, and will work with the stock floor. Depending on the model, you may have to lengthen the frame, and you have to flip the torsion bar adjusters, but there is no cutting of the floor needed. An Explorer 8.8 rear end works on the Toyota frame, and the bolt pattern matches the front hubs. Plenty of room for a V8 engine
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:45 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjenjo
As for a modern frame, mid 80s Toyota pickup frame is a near bolt in, and will work with the stock floor. Depending on the model, you may have to lengthen the frame, and you have to flip the torsion bar adjusters, but there is no cutting of the floor needed. An Explorer 8.8 rear end works on the Toyota frame, and the bolt pattern matches the front hubs. Plenty of room for a V8 engine
It may be a good choice to start a long complicated "swap" but it is certainly no "bolt in"!

Brian
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:46 AM
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1952-56 Ford sedans are 115.5" wheelbase,1954-56 have IFS suspension 1957-59 9" rears or early 8" Mustang and Maverick rears are a bolt in,adapting disc brakes is cheap and EZ.Now a '48 Chevy with a Y-Block ?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2012, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
It may be a good choice to start a long complicated "swap" but it is certainly no "bolt in"!

Brian
then find 1 that is still in 1 peice.. At least here in the rust belt, they are notorius for holding crap in the channels and rust out..

I can see the frame structure and curvature working out however, body/ cab mounts are of a simmilar type to the original Chevy mounts and rivit to the frame, and with it being straight frame rails ( side to side ), it would only take drilling new holes to relocate the mount pads, or just make new 1's.
I have a '91 4x4 beater sitting right next to my '51 Chevy, and just by looking. the wheelbase is very close.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2012, 12:43 PM
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"Difficult" is a very subjective word. I will swap a quarter panel, rear body panel and trunk floor on a 2012 $100K Mercedes and not think a thing of it. But to many people that would be a tall request being it is "difficult".

But the definition of "bolt in" means it well....bolts in.

A "near" bolt in, well you are right, you then get into subjective territory. But I don't call something that needs EVERY SINGLE body mount removed and welded or made from scratch, lengthening or shortening rails making mounts for a fuel tank, pedals, steering, rad support, bumper brackets, "near" bolt on by any stretch of the imagination.

It may be the best frame for a project such as this, but it is in no way shape or form a "near bolt in". And I would hate for a newbe to think he had found the frame he can "bolt in" under his car, he would be sadly mistaken.

I understand the difficulty in finding one of these frames, but he is in NM and things are MUCH easier to find not rusted out than up in the north east. If you saw how things look around here, cars being scraped, parting out, it would blow your mind.

Brian
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:10 PM
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To the OP :

We don't know what your skill level is for this project. The truth is if you barely know how to use a tape measure and a welder, you may have bitten off more than you want to chew. I have a 55 chevy frame behind our barn at home with no axle, I wonder if that could be something you may have some better luck finding as the pro touring phase has made a lot of frames seemingly obsolete. If you want any measurements, just ask. My dad should have his del-ray home in the next 2 weeks as well

This means you could use off the shelf IFS, Leafspring rear axle with an open driveline and a lot of quality replacement parts are available at Napa.

Again, you also need to realize you'll probably put more into this car than its ever going to be worth, along with your time.

Heed Brians advice and jump into the 40-chevs community, you may find you can get a better project for less money, and still be able to use or trade your new parts
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
"Difficult" is a very subjective word. I will swap a quarter panel, rear body panel and trunk floor on a 2012 $100K Mercedes and not think a thing of it. But to many people that would be a tall request being it is "difficult".

But the definition of "bolt in" means it well....bolts in.

A "near" bolt in, well you are right, you then get into subjective territory. But I don't call something that needs EVERY SINGLE body mount removed and welded or made from scratch, lengthening or shortening rails making mounts for a fuel tank, pedals, steering, rad support, bumper brackets, "near" bolt on by any stretch of the imagination.

It may be the best frame for a project such as this, but it is in no way shape or form a "near bolt in". And I would hate for a newbe to think he had found the frame he can "bolt in" under his car, he would be sadly mistaken.

I understand the difficulty in finding one of these frames, but he is in NM and things are MUCH easier to find not rusted out than up in the north east. If you saw how things look around here, cars being scraped, parting out, it would blow your mind.

Brian
You notice I mentioned the 41 to 48 frame first? I would definitely be the easiest.

As far as body mounts, with the Toyota frame, there are two on each side you have to cut off the Chevy frame and weld or bolt to the Toyota. The rest of the body mounts you can drill into the Toyota frame. The stock Chevy fuel tank fits in the stock location. The Toyota frame looks just like a Chevy frame, so much so it's uncanny.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2012, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjenjo
A 41 to 48 Chevy frame, any model, will bolt under your car. The convertible frame has an X member, but will still fit.

As for a modern frame, mid 80s Toyota pickup frame is a near bolt in, and will work with the stock floor. Depending on the model, you may have to lengthen the frame, and you have to flip the torsion bar adjusters, but there is no cutting of the floor needed. An Explorer 8.8 rear end works on the Toyota frame, and the bolt pattern matches the front hubs. Plenty of room for a V8 engine
I took your advice and found a 41 chevy coupe frame with a camero sub got some pictures of it up let's see how it works
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2012, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjenjo
A 41 to 48 Chevy frame, any model, will bolt under your car. The convertible frame has an X member, but will still fit.

As for a modern frame, mid 80s Toyota pickup frame is a near bolt in, and will work with the stock floor. Depending on the model, you may have to lengthen the frame, and you have to flip the torsion bar adjusters, but there is no cutting of the floor needed. An Explorer 8.8 rear end works on the Toyota frame, and the bolt pattern matches the front hubs. Plenty of room for a V8 engine
I took your advice I got a 41 chevy coupe frame with a camero sub have some pics up lets see how its going to work
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2012, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
"Difficult" is a very subjective word. I will swap a quarter panel, rear body panel and trunk floor on a 2012 $100K Mercedes and not think a thing of it. But to many people that would be a tall request being it is "difficult".

But the definition of "bolt in" means it well....bolts in.

A "near" bolt in, well you are right, you then get into subjective territory. But I don't call something that needs EVERY SINGLE body mount removed and welded or made from scratch, lengthening or shortening rails making mounts for a fuel tank, pedals, steering, rad support, bumper brackets, "near" bolt on by any stretch of the imagination.

It may be the best frame for a project such as this, but it is in no way shape or form a "near bolt in". And I would hate for a newbe to think he had found the frame he can "bolt in" under his car, he would be sadly mistaken.

I understand the difficulty in finding one of these frames, but he is in NM and things are MUCH easier to find not rusted out than up in the north east. If you saw how things look around here, cars being scraped, parting out, it would blow your mind.

Brian
Hey Brian I got a 41 chevy frame with a camero sub for a some pics up of it looks like it might work
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Old 03-15-2012, 04:25 AM
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I know what you are going to say anyways.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2012, 09:06 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macadoe
Hey Brian I got a 41 chevy frame with a camero sub for a some pics up of it looks like it might work

That was fast, just be sure it was done properly and the wheel base is correct and all that before you invest anymore in it.

Brian
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2012, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
That was fast, just be sure it was done properly and the wheel base is correct and all that before you invest anymore in it.

Brian
Just checked the wheel base 52inches across 114 in length that looks like a even match what you think that will work
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