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Old 11-28-2011, 07:59 PM
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1949 Chevrolet (HELP for BRAKES)

Can anyone help me? I recently purchased a 1949 Fleetline. I want to just drive the car and not do too much at the moment. The master cylinder after cleaning still has pits. The least little bit of honing will make it too big. Any suggestions without replacing a new one? If I were to update to the firewall, what type of car would you seek to obtain this from Pull-A-Part? Keep in mind I still want to keep the 3 on the tree. How can I connect to the clutch for shifting? Any help is great for a teacher and coach?

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Old 11-29-2011, 09:35 AM
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You sound a lot like me and stock stuff will do just fine. I wouldn't spend a minute messing with the old stuff, replace it. If you havn't been looking, just sit back and relax and do some hunting for the parts. First off, go to a REAL parts store.

I just called my parts store and they have the master in stock for $153 list, They have wheel cyl rebuild kits in stock as well. But I would replace with new, they are going to be available somewhere. They have shoes in stock for $43.46. This isn't a vintage parts place, it's a regular parts store that services the shops in town.

But honestly, I just did my 59 Rambler, replaced EVERYTHING new from master cyl to shoes just picking up stuff on ebay and what not, replaced the lines and all from the parts store. They have a new easy to bend tubing that I did without a tubing bender, put it all in new and it stops RIGHT NOW.

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Old 11-29-2011, 09:43 AM
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I am not certain if all these are correct but this is with one quick look on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Hardware-Kit-Springs-1936-1950-Chevrolet-NEW-/220900575063?fits=Year:1949|Make:Chevrolet&hash=it em336eb34757&item=220900575063&pt=Vintage_Car_Truc k_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Shoes-46-47-48-49-50-Chevrolet-Chevy-NEW-/220900575810?fits=Year:1949|Make:Chevrolet&hash=it em336eb34a42&item=220900575810&pt=Vintage_Car_Truc k_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-50-51-5...sories&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-4-Wheel-...sories&vxp=mtr


I think many of the brake parts on that car are the same up to 62 on the Vette, at least they had the same basic chassis and suspension.

But honestly, it is really a good idea to put all new, it makes it so easy.

Brian
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:09 AM
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'49-'52 masters interchange but has to come from a stick car to have the clutch pivot. it's possible to sleeve them I think if you found someone to do it, but I'm not 100% sure. I would make sure the park brake works tho. it's a single master so if you blow a line, you loose all hydraulic braking.. There are conversion mounts which put a dual cylinder in the same spot. No need to hang the pedal on the firewall
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:33 AM
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On the single reservour issue, with all new parts in the real world on a maintained car, there is nothing to think about. JMO

Brian
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:46 AM
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I know, even on my '51 Chevy, I have no plans to mess with the M/C. it has been rebuilt and works fine.. Just he's got a pitted M/C which can't be refinished and wants to make it work without replacement..
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:48 AM
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I would do what it takes to upgrade to a dual cylinder for safety reasons... Buy something new... Going to a junk yard for something like that to save money is asking for trouble... You save on the brake part's and then your going down the road and your new junk yard part's fail... I really think you need to do this the right way even if it cost's a little more.... I think your car in your family is worth it... When it comes to brakes.. That's top's the list with me as #1 safety rule.... Upgrade to a dual cylinder they went to dual for a good reason... And I would update everything to do with the brake's..


By the way.. Is that a Nova front clip you have on your frame in your album.. It look's like one..

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Old 11-29-2011, 11:58 AM
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The only issue I have with the dual M/C kits for these cars, is the original pedal can't be used unless it's modded to the new shaft which is no big deal, but the pedal sits diffrent with the dual m/c kit, so you could 'tell' anyway..

As long as everything is in perfect maintenance, the single M/C would be fine, but I would recomend to check lines every week along with checking the brake adjustments, points adjustments and filling it with oil... but I would be the 1 to at least put '51-'53 brakes on it all the way round. there duo servo self energizing, and the parts are a little cheaper, given the brake parts themselves were used '51-'64ish and they had other uses after that
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:02 PM
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Good luck..
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
The only issue I have with the dual M/C kits for these cars, is the original pedal can't be used unless it's modded to the new shaft which is no big deal, but the pedal sits diffrent with the dual m/c kit, so you could 'tell' anyway..

I think this fixes that problem..
http://www.bobsclassicchevy.com/1949...ock-pedal.html
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:25 PM
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yep.. For an auto car, but fitting a clutch pivot for a stick car wouldn't be too diffacult.. bookmarked it for myself anyway, my car is an auto.

I was considering the other kit but always got hung up on the pedal. they come with a little round pedal pad, and it just doesent look right, and the angle is more horizontal than orig, so if you just replaced the pedal foot with the original, the original pedal would be tipped down a little

actually just ordered a catalog from there too.. I always thought bobs was just '55-'57 parts and never even visited there site before.
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
yep.. For an auto car, but fitting a clutch pivot for a stick car wouldn't be too diffacult.. bookmarked it for myself anyway, my car is an auto.

I was considering the other kit but always got hung up on the pedal. they come with a little round pedal pad, and it just doesent look right, and the angle is more horizontal than orig, so if you just replaced the pedal foot with the original, the original pedal would be tipped down a little




First thing I would do is move it up on the fire wall... Get's rid of a few problems having it under the floor... I hate them under the floor...On my 1950 coupe,,I put mine on the fire wall... And installed a pedal out of a s10 pickup... Work's out great...Had to make a little mod to the bracket.. But was very easy to do..

Sorry.. I see he has a 3 on the tree now..

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Old 11-29-2011, 12:43 PM
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the bracket would just need a tab with a bushed hole to fit.
I think the original under floor master adds somthing to the car..

At least there not a Beetle, and use a master under the floor with a remote resivore, but the pedal rod goes thru the lower part of the firewall..
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:27 AM
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Exactly Matt, the firewall is the last place I would put it. keeping the firewall clear of clutter. Yes it's a little more work to check and add fluid but let's face it, if we are building a car like this I think the extra work to pull up the carpet to check the fluid is within our means.

But honestly, a dual master is of course a good idea. But with some common sense maintenance, not crazy maintenance just common sense, the single will be plenty safe. It's like the brake peddle is held by ONE bolt that it is pivoting on, just ONE bolt, if we maintain the system there are no surprises.

Brian
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:36 AM
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And to think how much we talk safety here..

Yes and Russian roulette is safe to play... H*** you only have one shot out of 6..

I think I'm done trying to help anyone here....IT JUST DOESN'T PAY...
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