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Old 02-13-2008, 07:25 PM
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1951 chevy hood ?

hi guys

got a 51 Chevy coupe.

i put a v8 in it got the fenders on and now im puting the hood on.

well my problem is that Ive got the hood hinges on and the hood mounted

the problem is that the hood doesn't line up nice its tight on one side and i can fin a finger between the fender and hood on the other.

the ? is how do i adjust this Ive already tried moving the hinges more forward and more back and both hinges on both sides are the same.

can some one help me with this .
thank you Dan

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Old 02-13-2008, 07:58 PM
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You may have to adjust the fenders.
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Old 02-13-2008, 08:02 PM
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rad supt

there is usually some adjustment where the radiator support mounts to the frame to move the whole front end sheet metal
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Old 02-14-2008, 07:50 AM
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Post some photos. Is it off at the cowl? Or is it off at the front? If it is the cowl, it may simply take "pushing" the hood over to one side to bend the hinges back in place. This is common, very common, so don't think it is all about loosening bolts and moving parts.

Is it even across the back of the hood to the cowl?

Brian
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Old 02-14-2008, 07:54 PM
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1951 chevy hood ?

well it sits on the Cole but the passenger side is up about an inch it sat fine until i put the hinges on thats y i was wondering if it was the hinges if they got worn out or something like that?
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Old 02-14-2008, 09:29 PM
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You are going all over the place and it is a little hard to understand what you are saying with the emailbonics you write in.

Here is an except from an article (Click here) that explains panel alignment...

Brian

Hood alignment: Let’s start with raising and lowering the rear of the hood. If the car you are working on has a hinge that sits on top of the cowl, your only options are to shim or bend the hinge. Bending the hinge slightly is one way to move it. If you need to come up in the rear you can put a small block of wood or other item on the hinge, to bend it. When you close the hood down (NOT ALL THE WAY) it will get in the way of the hood closing and bend the rear or the hinge up. If you need to bend it down, the only option may be to remove it and bend it a little. You can also shim the bolts between the hood and the hinge, more on this later.

If you have a hood where the hinge mounts on the side of the fender or the side of the cowl like with an older car or truck, you want to "rotate" the hinge on the fender. Just pushing the hinge up and down will give you very little movement on the top of the hood.

This is the strange little trick that you have to remember, if you raise the back of the hood on the hinge or raise the back of the hinge on the fender the hood will go up. If you raise the "front" of the back of the hood ON THE HINGE or the hinge to the fender it will go down. What you have to remember is you are working with a pivot point in the hinge, not a stationary part.

If you loosen the FRONT bolt on the hood (where it bolts to the hinge) and put a shim, or washer between the hood and hinge, this will LOWER the hood on that side. If you put that same washer under the rear bolt it will RAISE the rear of the hood on that side.

So, if you loosen the bolts from the hinge to fender and close the hood, the hinge will rotate on down in the front right? This will raise the REAR of the hood like putting a shim in the back bolt between the hinge and hood!

What you need to do to lower the back the hood is to loosen the bolts (only slightly) and PUSH UP on the front of the hood. This rotates the hinges back, thus raising the front of the hinge and lowering the hood in the back.

If the hinges are warn out it won’t change how high the hood sits when the wear, not by more than a fraction of an inch. And I have never seen a car with these style hinges that you couldn't put the hood a half inch LOWER than the fenders if you wanted to. The adjustment is HUGE on these cars. That is one of the things that is easy to do on them is align panels.

I recommend you remove the striker or latch from the hood so that you can move it up and down without worrying about the latch grabbing the hood. After you have aligned the hood, take a piece of dumb-dumb or clay or something similar and put it on the latch. This way you can see exactly where it hits when you do install the latch. You bring the hood down till you just tap this dumb-dumb but DON'T LATCH IT. Just so the hood makes an indentation in the clay/dumb-dumb. This tells you where you have to move the latch.

I do this at work everyday, by my self so if you can't get help this is the trick. Always leave one bolt on the hinge tight. If you want to rotate it back, leave the front bolt tight. If you want to rotate it forward, leave the rear bolt tight. When you move the hood forward or back on the hinge, leave the bolts snug enough that you have to tap on the edge of the hood to get it to move. Or if it needs to go back, leave the bolts a little snug, and wiggle the hood up and down and the weight of the hood will make it slide down. Remember it only needs a 1/16" or so to make a 3/16" or more change at the front. To pull the hood forward on the hinge loosen them so they are still a little snug so you have to pull up on the back of the hood to make it slide that little bit. If you loosen it up so it moves anywhere you want it, YOU WILL NEVER KNOW HOW MUCH YOU MOVED IT AND YOU WILL MOVE IT TOO MUCH, GUARANTEED.
Get the hood laying flat first, then move the hood forward or back on each side to make the hood fit the hole between the fenders. If the gap is large on the front right and small on the front left, then the hood needs to me moved back on the right side. As you move the hood back on a side it will close up the gap in the front of that side and open it at the rear of that side.

You may need to move fenders too. Just do each change slowly, move it VERY LITTLE. Look at the bolt and washer as you move the panel, you will see where the washer used to be, the amount is much easier to control if you watch the washer movement.

If you need to move the hood up or down at the front, you have a few ways to do it. First, on each side there are the “bumpers”. The hood bumpers are located at each front corner and look like a bolt with a rubber pad on top. Just unlock the jam nut and raise or lower the “bolt” so it holds the hood at the height you need to match the fender. You may find that the hood won’t go low enough even with the bumper down far enough. The latch may not be down far enough. When you close the hood, you shouldn’t be able to pull up on the hood or push it down. The latch should be tight enough to hold it against the bumpers tight, but not too tight. If you have to apply too much force to open the hood or it opens with a loud POP, the latch is probably too tight. If it is at the right height but you can lift it up some, then the latch needs to be moved down.
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Old 02-15-2008, 04:21 PM
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51 Cheby Hood problems

What Dan means is this (Area 51) :
The alignment of the fenders and the doors at it's most top curve are excellent , the problem is that the hood in junction with the cross line of the cowl is way off the passenger side does not draw down regardless of what way he tweaked the hinges . I noticed a lot of play in the pivots of the right hinge more so than the left ( drivers side).
Before the front tin was removed ( from what I can remember ) the passenger side of the hood had to be pushed down to equal the alignment of the drivers side . New hood hinge springs were installed , the radiator
support was shimmed along with the upper and lower fenders . I'm helping Dan with his project and he needs to learn things by asking other people I'm not going to dial in everything when I have other things to do on his project . So ... I'm thinking that the hinges are played out ( the passenger more so than the drivers side which draws down when the hood is closed .)
I like butter fly hoods ! Less trouble in my book .... so guys what do ya think ? can someone direct him
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