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1952 F-7 ford
Alot of you guys have given me some great help on my project. I though I would post some more pictures of the truck.
BTW the motor mounts look great, I know how cheesy they looked in a previous photo but once up in the truck they look much better. I have found a photobucket account I didnt even know I had and I hope to make a link here so that you guys can see the pictures. If it does not work than one of you guys will have to tell me what needs to be done to make it work Photo and image hosting, free photo galleries, photo editing | Photobucket These photos show the truck with the F.I. 302 i originally put in it, I removed it from an 86 Ford, 4 wheel drive. I didnt even bother removing the transfer case at the time. I will post some updated photos of its new powertrain if any of you guys are interested. |
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Link not going to your pictures, just the photobucket home page
What you need to do is bring up each pic and copy/paste the [img] link here
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Ontario Rodders |
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...alternatively, an entire album or sub album can be made "Public" and then a link established here. Photobucket gives you that choice though not as intuitive as it could be. I have both "Public" and "Private" sections in my account
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I dig it.
If you want to get away from the split wheels, (you may already know) you can use 'demountable' wheels for tubeless radials. Like: 295/75/22.5 (low-pro) or 11r 22.5.. So if your current tires are 10.00 - 20's (20" Dayton hubs) a 22.5 demountable wheel should work on yours. Be sure to get the wedges too, or make sure your current wedges seat into the wheel firmly. Myself, got a 75 GMC C65 dump that still hauls and makes money. It had the 10.00 - 20s with the split wheels so I switched them out to the aformentioned setup. If you have 22" Dayton hubs then a 24.5 demountable wheel would be what you need. Also, they make new spacers (there are different widths) that fit between the duals on the rear. Most rings are beat up and rusted which, aside from obvious safety problems, make it a real PITA to get the wheels bolted on so they won't wobble going down the road. Last edited by C-10; 12-02-2012 at 08:03 AM. |
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Yeah thanks, I didnt have the cash at the time when I was looking for the tires to buy new wheels also, the tires were a biatch to find and I was happy to find 6 takeoffs with the knubbies still on them. All 6 still cost me 1000 bucks.
If I ever get to the point of winning the lottery ( I better start paying ) than I would like to put some aluminum Alcoas on the truck with another set of decent tires. I believe they are the 20s BTW |
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Rascal; I have a 49-F7 "Grain Truck". Henry only built about 418 in 49.
yours appears to be a F8 because of the "Cleated Wheels". The only difference is "F8 is Cleated" or "F7 is Bud" wheels. I changed my "Suicide" split Rims over to one piece "20 inch - Two ton Chev" rims. The original engine was the "Big-Ole Bus Flat Head Engine". It was past repair. I installed a 429, and used the original 5 Speed Over Drive. I bit the Bullit, and payed the price for the "new" wheel cylinders, relined the Shoes, and had the Remote Brake Booster rebuilt. I like Brakes that Work. I Painted the truck Black, Chromed the Grill and other Goodies. I just Love this old Truck. I now also have a 49 F5 Grain Truck. It only has 31k miles and is all "Henry". I still use this truck. Bob |
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