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Old 09-25-2003, 03:50 PM
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1954 Ford Wiring diagram

Not sure if anyone can help me. I have a 54 Ford Coupe, I just ordered a 54 Shop manual hoping it would have electrical diagrams. It does have some, but its missing the brake/turn signal diagram. Anyone out there happen to have one (diagram)? My brake lights work, but blinkers don't. The last owner took out the front blinkers. I'm wondering if that is the reason why i don't have any blinkers period. Anyone know if they used flasher units back then? Hopefully someone can help with this unpopular year.

Thanks a bunch

Neal

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Old 09-25-2003, 05:58 PM
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I have a 1953 Ford coupe, glad to see another shoebox out there. 1st: They did run a flasher unit under driver side of dash (they come 6v & 12v should have mfg spec on it) 2nd: The system was designed for the resistance from 2 bulbs ( front & rear) without either you can't trip the flasher unit at all or if it does it will be really slow. Even the dash indicator bulb being out will slow the flash rate down some. I'd hook up front t/s lites, make sure bulbs and flasher match whatever voltage your running and see what happens. MAKE SURE it's on a fused circuit as the reason the last owner disconnected the fronts might have been due to a short in the wiring and you don't want to cook the harness. If the fuse blows, look for bad wiring.
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Old 09-25-2003, 08:09 PM
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No help here ... just wanted to say my first driver was a '54 Ford 2-door Ranch Wagon. I loved that car, man ... and haven't seen one anywhere since! I still miss the sight of that speedo, too!


Alan
54 Chevy Pickup
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Old 09-25-2003, 09:38 PM
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The reason you don't have a schematic...

Is because for '54 there were 2 options, factory-installed, and dealer-installed turn signals. I have a section from my '54 manual (copied pages from another source), and can try to help piece it together. The '52 manual was a big thick one also, with supplements for '53 and '54...

The column wires going from column should enter the junction block under the dash, from top to bottom...Green, green-orange tracer, orange-blue tracer, blue, green-white tracer, white-blue tracer.

Dash lights (indicators) should be white-blue tracer for right turn, and green-white tracer for left turn. There should be a orange-yellow tracer wire from ammeter to the flasher, to supply power to it. Dash indicators and front turn signals should be the same color wires, the rear light wires are different because they also have to carry braking current. Check your front lights for green-white and white-blue...

On the turn signal switch itself, it shows blue as the center indicator wire on one pic (no other wire colors indicated, though it shows them...). This indicates to me that the blue wire is the one coming from the flasher, that carries the flasher's pulsed current.

I know there's supposed to be a wire from the brake light switch to the column, not sure which color that wire is supposed to be, might be the green...

If necessary, I can go outside and pull the wheel and switch from my '54 loose and give you some better idea of the connections to the back of the switch, and where the wires go. I replaced all the wiring off my switch with modern wiring so the original color coding is lost, but my front and rear signals work, so I could trace each contact from the switch and let you know which contact is for what function...

Check my page out to see what can be done with these "unpopular year" ugly ducklings...

Doc

Doc Chops Garage

Last edited by DrChop; 09-25-2003 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 09-25-2003, 10:25 PM
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WOW!! And I thought I'd really done something by shaving he trunk lid and making it electric. The flaming tail lite video is OUTRAGEOUS!! Can't wait to see the finished sled. I'm a Mechanic and am realy limited on paint/body work so I stayed mechanical/electrical on mine but i'm in the interior now and the body is stareing at me going Hey what about me?..
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Old 09-26-2003, 12:32 AM
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You can do it too...

The secret is that no matter how bad the metalwork gets screwed up you can always weld more back on to fix it...

Don't be afraid to hack up your car. If you don't trust your MIG welding and grinding skills, try something simpler, like chopping the top on a Rabbit/ Chevette/Omni-Horizon, etc. Suitable 'practice cars' can be found for little to nothing, and one can hone skills working with metal by hacking the snot outta something a little more 'throwaway', these cars are a lot like a Bic lighter in that respect. If you screw up, and cannot fix it, just call the guy who buys cars for scrap to haul it away, AFTER you save anything else worth keeping, of course.

FWIW, I've owned about 30 Rabbits, a couple Chevettes, and an Omni that I put up on a CJ frame...

I wrenched on cars for the past 10 years out of high school. All I know is that most every new car made today is a throwaway, even if it has a big pricetag on the sticker .I don't have to like them to fix them. Recently though, I took a job shooting truck bedliners in a custom pickup shop very close to home. I'm a lot happier, and go home in a good mood since most of what I do is on brand-new trucks, the bolts come out EASY on those...

Doc
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Old 09-26-2003, 05:09 AM
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Whoa!

Thanks to all that have replied, I now just have to find where these Front blinkers are suppose to wire to. I just got the car and really don't know much about where everything is..

Whoa, nice 54 Doc, your car rocks in soo many ways. Way to go. Your car gives me hope!! Thanks also for the wire colors and your willingness to help! Cheers to your ledsled!! I'm sure it will be the center of attention no matter where you drive to..
love the exhaust by the way!!

Neal
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Old 09-26-2003, 05:23 PM
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The harness runs up the left fender well (inside engine compartment) to a distribution block on the radiator support bulkhead. I believe it had 6 posts: horn,hi beam, low beam, parking lites, left turn, right turn. The t/s sockets were dual element with park and t/s. The wires were probably just cut where the exited the harness, so follow the l/h harness to the head lite and look for 2 cut off wires, then follow the r/h across the radiator support to it's head lite and do the same. It's possible they were removed all the way back to the block, but I dough it. If so you'll have 3 posts with only 1 wire on it and will have to use a test lite to sort them out.
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