[ET1wilson]

I am looking at different parts for my 1960 Chevy pickup and I was thinking of a 9 inch ford reach end and the mustang 2 front suspension, but there is not a lot of info on early 1960's. I see a lot of stuff for 55-59 and was wondering what are the big changes they made from 59 to 60 on the chaise and wheel base distance. If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be very appreciated.

[BOBCRMAN@aol.com]

My old 60 Chevy short step had a stock torsion bar front suspension.

[ET1wilson]

I was referring to the actual frame such as H or A type frame and the difference of parts for a 59 vs a 60. I just want to order parts and make sure they fit or if I can do some welding maybe to get them to fit. So I guess how much work would it be to modify the truck for using these parts.

[ogre]

your dealing with two completely different frames. gm totally redid the frames in 1960.
55-59 has leaf springs front & rear, straight front axle with king pins and
the frame is parrallel and flat from the rear to center of the front axle.
1960 has independent front suspenssion (A arms), with torsion bars and
most of them came out with a rear swing arm and coil springs for the rear axle.

[ET1wilson]

So would a mustang 2 front end for a 1959 and a 9 inch ford rear end for a 1959 checy truck fit if used for a 1960 chevy truck?

[ogre]

Originally Posted by ET1wilson

So would a mustang 2 front end for a 1959 and a 9 inch ford rear end for a 1959 checy truck fit if used for a 1960 chevy truck?

no. not even close.

why don't you just buy the correct mustII from fatmanfab.com? they have a kit for a 60 frame, bolt in, no welding required. $2245 hub to hub.

does your truck have a swing arm & coil springs or leaf springs in the rear?

[ET1wilson]

They have coil springs. I looked for a 1960 setup but I just couldnt find anything so I was wondering about the 59's. Thanks for the link and all the help.

[ogre]

from fatmanfab.com:

Our Bolt In IFS kits offer the ideal solution for radically lowered GM pick ups. You will gain 3" of ground clearance while the track width is 2" narrower than stock on each side, allowing for wider wheels and lower stance. The units are actually fabbed on a genuine GM frame section, unbolted, and then shipped to you to bolt back into yours. Tubular upper control arms are included in the basis kit, and MUST be used for enough space to perform proper alignment, but most rodders just opt for the complete Hub to Hub kits. Polished stainless steel control arms provide extra flash and are included at the same price as plain steel arms when you buy the complete kits. You can choose different Stages with coil, coilover, or Airride spring options, as well as power steering, 12" × 5" bolt circle brakes, sway bars, and hookup kits to seal the deal. Performance and pretty all in one package! Call for a Builder’s Guide for more details on building these fine trucks!


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i remember one of the truck magazine that had an article about lowering the coil spring/swing arm for your truck. look for other forums that deal with 60-66 gm trucks. someone must sell a lowering spring.
if you had the leaf spring rear, i could walk you through that.

[Bryan59EC]

60-62 were torsion front ends
63-66 are essentially the same all the way up to 87.

Upper and lower control arms interchange so you can use drop spindles if you desire.
I do not think the MustangII/Pinto front ends are tough enough for these trucks---they are kinda heavy.

If you were to locate a frame from the 63-66, it may not be all that difficult to move a couple of body mounts to put your earlier body on it.

Then, you can source the front clip from a 73-87, steering box, and brake boosters to get your Power disc brakes and power steering in one shot.

The whole lower crossmember will bolt in with drilling only 2 holes.

These guys should be able to help
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/