1960 chevy 3speed to 4speed mucie swap - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 05-28-2006, 01:38 PM
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1960 chevy 3speed to 4speed mucie swap

hello,
i'm in the process of pulling the 3 speed manual tranny out of my belair and replacing it with a 4 speed m21 muncie and floor shifter. this is an x-frame car with split shaft and carrier bearing setup. anybody ever done this before?

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Old 05-28-2006, 07:24 PM
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3 speed to 4 speed

Piggie
I did this very swap on a 58 chevy in 1968, it goes like this. The 4 speed bolts up to the bellhousing with no problem but is longer than the 3 speed. The driveshaft has to be shorter to work. This can be done by a machine shop with no problem. I believe there is a company called Empire driveshaft (not sure of name) that can build a custom shaft with improvements. Steve
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Old 05-29-2006, 09:43 AM
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hey woundbroom,
thanks for the reply. here's what i've discovered so far. first off the slip yoke is different for the 4 speed, looks like a 27 spline vs. the 16 spline that's in the 3 speed. which should be pretty easy to find. second, and i haven't measured yet, but will the cross member stay in the same location or will it move back in the the tunnel and have to be retro-fitted? i'm hoping it stays put. and lastly of course is the drive shaft. i'm not sure where to begin measuring. since the shaft dissappears into the xframe it's not really possible to measure from the places shaft shops want me to, namely the flange of the muncie output to the leading edge of the diffie yoke. i've read as a rule of thumb that you want the front yoke, in it's natural position, to ride 3/4 to 1" out from full foward position. to make things even more challenging the 27 spline yokes seem longer than the 16 spline. the closest info i've found so far for this swap was a powerglide to a muncie swap a guy did on a 63 impala. he shortened his front shaft from 26 13/16"s to 24 5/8"s. these are the only hard numbers i've found and belive me, i've been diggin. were you able to determine the length of the front shaft yourself, or did you take them the whole car? which seems drastic. i know this is a lot for you to remember considering in 1968 i had 2 years to wait for birth thanks for your help.
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Old 05-29-2006, 02:01 PM
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3speed to 4speed

piggie,
The original driveshaft is designed WRONG from the factory and if you are going to keep this car I would suggest you talk to the people at Inland empire drivshaft and check out their site at that name. The slip joint that goes in the trans should be stationary and another slip joint should be at the bearing so it can move with thje rear end movment easier. As far as the mount goes I remember taking flat steel and bolting it to the mount and putting it back about 3 inches back to the trans mount. Worked OK. Of course this is a little fuzzy after so many years. It was a 58 with a 348 with 3 dueces and a solid cam from a 61 350 horse 348. It was my first 4speed car, and I thought I hit the big time. Now Ive got a 57 small block and a 5speed Tremec. How things change. Definitely go to the site and check it out, because these guys know their stuff when it comes to these shafts. If you think I can help you with any thing just let me know.
Steve
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Old 05-29-2006, 04:43 PM
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hey that's funny steve, i was just on inland empire drivlines site and in fact they have a very useful work sheet for 2 piece driveshaft measurements for 1958-64 chevy cars. see link here https://s1.uia.net/iedls/twopiece.html. it appears that they take the middle measurements from the center of the mounting bolts for the carrier bearing. i concur that this design was flawed from the drawing board but i'm gonna give it a go with getting the front shaft shortened.... for now. maybe if i tub and narrow the rearend and put that snotted out big block in there i'll chop all that x-frame madness right outa there, we'll see. i think this worksheet will give me the tools i need to communicate with the shaft shop and get it done right. as far as the crossmember goes, from what i have been reading online, it's sounding like a direct fit, just need to use the lower set of holes versus the top set. i'll check that in a couple days and get back. thanks again for your help, i just barely beat you to the punch
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