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Old 10-23-2008, 05:06 PM
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1962 New Yorker lock up

1962 New Yorker, 413, four door. Put four new wheel cyl. in front and also new shoes in front. Also put new brake hose on front right. I am in desparate need of information as to why the right front wheel locks up when brake is used. It will stay locked up until car comes to stop. If you then go in reverse the wheel will free up and stay free after going forward until you then hit the brake and it will lock up again until you stop the car. This only happens on the right front wheel. This car has no proportioning valve on it and I also thought it might be the brake hose, but that is also new.
This is very baffling and any insight would be great from the Mopar Fans out there that have worked on the earlier cars. Please Help!!!

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Old 10-24-2008, 11:48 AM
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How new is new?

Just because it is new does not mean its a good part.

Are the return springs good?

Are the backing plates gouged?

Did you bleed out the system good?

Bench bleed the master?

NO Proportioning valve? ... sure about that?

Check all the lines to find the valve & see if you have one crushed somewhere?

Was it doing this before you did the brakes?

if not put the old parts back on.



R
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Old 10-25-2008, 10:06 AM
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1962 new yorker lock up

It has a single res. master cyl. You can follow the lines easily to the front and back of car and there is no prop. valve to be found. All parts are new from springs to shoes to wheel cyl. Car was properly bled all four corners farthest to closest. I have a hunch from some other info that the back side of the backing plate has adjustment to tighten or loosen tension on the shoes. We are going to try that and see what happens. It has to be something to do with with that wheel. All the brake lines are good, no dents or kinks. Unfortunately, the car came to me with the new hardware and brakes allready installed and was done by previous owner, so we do not know how it was acting after installed
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Old 10-26-2008, 12:16 PM
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I think RobK has it.

The shoes have worn notches (gouges) into the backing plates and are hanging up. Remove the shoes and grind the spots smooth, and if the metal seems to thin, weld it and then grind it flat.

This is a common problem on most old cars that also causes swerving or pulling. Most people blame that on "drum brakes" but NEW drum brakes stop smoothly and straight.
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Old 10-26-2008, 01:52 PM
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Well I am not sure if Grinding it will make is good.
At least the ones I've seen were way too deep they would have to be built up by welding.

Mine were on the back the R/R would hand up & lock with a Locker rear end it was sideways @ 55MPH trying to stop @ a light!

Butt puckering moment.




R
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