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1964 impala hei resistance wires question

23K views 29 replies 4 participants last post by  solo20 
#1 ·
I just bought one of these new HEI engine wiring bulk harness connector and what i want to know is this on the ign switch i see 2 wires spliced into one . One of them is brown and the other is brown with a white stripe are both of these resistance wires do i need to remove both and install a new wire?. iam lost on what wires to remove from under the dash bulk connector.
1964 impala ss 327 engine
 
#6 ·
yes i used the search engine but everybody states the samething used the fusebox but that is not the way i want to do it. Thats the reason i bought the HEi harness bulkhead connector i want it to look stock with out a pink wire sticking out of the fusebox so far the first method has been expline but not the other on these cars
 
#8 ·
:thumbup: I did my 71 C10 the lazy way. Just unplugged the old and ran a new wire thru the firewall where the Washer hose went thru. Plugged it into the Fusebox on a unused/fused spade Terminal. :D

What does your HEI Bulkhead connector kit look like?
Terminal & wire that goes into the Bulk Conn.?
 
#16 ·
but when i connect directly from the battery to the coil it works with no problems. so iam guessing something is sucking up voltage when i connect it the right way. also when i connect from the fuse box to the coil its the same thing its like its not getting enough voltage,any ideas?
 
#17 ·
solo20 said:
but when i connect directly from the battery to the coil it works with no problems. so iam guessing something is sucking up voltage when i connect it the right way. also when i connect from the fuse box to the coil its the same thing its like its not getting enough voltage,any ideas?
When you connect what from the Batt to Coil what works? :confused:
 
#18 · (Edited)
I didn't see your Post at the bottom of the 1st Page.
Do you have good Ground wires? Engine to Frame, Engine to Firewall, Battery to Engine?

I thought you said the Starter was just clicking?
You could try leaving the Yellow wire from the Starter to the HEI connected/spliced in to the 12V+ like it was on the Points Distributor.

You definetly have a Voltage drop happening somewhere. You'll have to check around with a Volt/Ohm meter to find out where. May be the Ignition switch or Bulkhead connector etc...
 
#19 ·
Engine to Frame no
Engine to Firewall no
Battery to Engine yes

i will make grounds and see what happens. the starter was clicking in the begining because i had an old battery connected once i put a new one i could get the car to run only when i ran a wire from the battery to the coil.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Ahhh OK, I think that will probably cure the problem.
Add a Large gauge cable from the Engine to Frame, like the -Batt to Engine cable.
Most OEM's have a braided Ground strap from each Valve Cover to the Firewall, rear VC bolt by Intake. 2 10-Gauge wires will be good.
You can see them hanging in this Pic>> http://media.photobucket.com/image/recent/71ss/100_1299.jpg

3-Pc. OEM Strap Kit>> http://www.impalaparts.com/Store/category.php?CatId=148
I think the Short one goes from the Starter to the Frame or Firewall.
You can see the Short strap on bottom of Starter>> http://www.trifive.com/garage/56 Chevy Assembly Manual/12-15.gif could be used anywhere from Engine to Frame.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Sounds like you've got a resistance wire in there somewhere, IMO you should have a cable running from the neg side of the battery to the engine, mine also has a smaller wire from the neg side of the batt bolted to the fender, you also need a ground from the engine to the frame, you can add other grounds if you want but those three should be a min.
 
#23 ·
i finally got it runing, from the ignition i remove one wire that had a purple stripe and black solid color. now i think i have a new problem the alternator i dont think its charging or is the HEI sucking alot of battery juice any thought what could be wrong or do i need a bigger alternator and oh one more thing when i rev(rpm) the engine i dont see any change on the volts on the battery insteads the volts drop
and one more thing i just had the alternator check at autozone and they said there is nothing wrong with it i think they said it was a 65 amp alternator
 
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