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Old 03-06-2005, 03:57 PM
Joey Buttafucco's Avatar
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1964 Impala stuffs

hey! i gotta 64 impala wagon and i dont know what to do about my rear-end (my car's....ahaha). i have a 454 and its rather done....so is this style of rear-end good enough or can it be made good and strong to withstand the HP's and bad-*** torque.?

i have been told by many to "chuck that piece of poo". what kind of rear end is it...i dont know the size and style of this rear end. does it have a good posi-carrier? also, are there any retro-fit disk brake applictions that can be mated to the axels?

i also heard some rumor of a one piece drive shaft...currently my 2-piece looks rather meager and its skinny and odd design looks strange under this beast. i had pot spicer u-joints and got it all balanced and stuff but i am having a hard time bein convinced that it is sufficient and SAFE for my application. This one piece drive shaft sounds good and all but the X-frame may prove uncooperative in its installation and operation? am i just being pretentious?


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JOey BuTtafUcCo ova here!
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Old 03-07-2005, 10:52 AM
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If you opt to keep the stock axle in there, you will find disc brake swap kits are more expensive than other axles, the rebuild kits and new gear sets are also more than the later 8.5 inch, and there are only a few gear sets available for the axle in your car which is most likely an 8.2 inch ring gear.

Most others will recommend swapping out with the 8.5, the Ford 9 inch, or a 12 bolt.
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Old 03-08-2005, 07:32 PM
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You can put a 1 piece shaft in but it is a bit involved. Take out your old shaft and measure it's total length from weld to weld (where the yokes are welded to the shaft). You should be able to find a 1 piece shaft out of a truck to fit. The truck shaft will be a larger diameter which means you will have to cut the driveshaft tunnel out to make clearance. The car needs to be lowered a bit (can't remember exactly how much) to get the proper clearances at the mid shift bearing point. You will need to remove the gas tank and rear springs, jack the rear up as far as possible so you can slide the shaft in. May seem a bit involved but you will regret it if you don't do it.
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Old 03-09-2005, 08:46 PM
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your wagon should have an 8.2 rear end, probaly a 3.08 gear.i broke two of these with my sbc.i would recomend junking it! and swap it for a 9 inch.i cut my brackets of and welded them to a nine inch for mine. as far as a one piece shaft, i dont recomend it.you will have to pretty much cut the whole center of the frame out, and if you hit a bump, and the axle goes higher than midway, the shaft will hit the frame and cause damage.unless you want to take out the shock absorbers and place a solid bar in the rear to prevent suspension travel.you can get a heavy duty center bearing,with replacable bearings, it will hold up to your engine.hubbards impala parts has them for like 80 bucks or so.try www.impalaparts.com .if you decide to keep the 8.2 rear end, i got a richmond gear from summit or jegs for like 234.bucks when i had mine in,but it broke to. you can get a posi unit for this rear end to
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Old 03-10-2005, 04:55 AM
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If you're running a Rat motor don't even bother with the stock rear end. It will not last no matter what you do to it. A '65-'67 A-body rear end is a near bolt in with only some minor fabrication/modification to the control arms, all stuff you can do at home. The '68-'72 rears also fit but you move the wheels out 3/4" on each side, not a real problem. '67-'69 F-body (Camaro/Firebird) and '68-'78 X-body (Nova, etc.) diffs are the proper length but will need your suspension brackets welded on. Of course you have the option of a Ford 9", Mopar 8-3/4" and the '57-'64 Pontiac-Olds style but the Pontiac-Olds rears are hard to find now. I was going to use an 8.5" 10 Bolt housing from a '71-'72 Cutlass or Skylark/GS in my '62 Impala but sold the car and bought something a little newer with a "normal" frame.

Empire Driveline has a real nice HD driveshaft setup for the '58-'64 Chevy's. Another option is to modify a 4.3 LWB S-10 driveshaft to fit. The only real problem with the stock driveshaft in the X frame chevy's is that the slip joint is at the trans yoke like a 1 Pc. shaft but because of the way they mount the carrier bearing the front section can't move so the rear section is constantly jerking on the carrier when the rear suspension moves up and down. You need to add a slip joint to the rear section like the S-10 or Empire shafts.
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Old 03-10-2005, 10:28 AM
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ive also got a slip yoke on mine , forgot to mention that
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Old 03-11-2005, 02:07 AM
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slip yoke?

will a slip yoke affect the strength and/or reliability of my drive shaft? i forgot to mention that im putting air-suspension all around...i guess i need the x-tra travel...


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Joey Buttafucco OVAHERE
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Old 03-11-2005, 07:30 AM
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You don't need the rear slip yoke if you do it the way I described. It is a nice thing to have though.
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Old 03-11-2005, 07:42 AM
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if you are going to use an adjustable air ride suspension, you are not going to be able to use a one piece driveshaft.im assuming you want it to sit low, and raise it up when you want to ride in it.
so when it sits low, the yoke on the rear end is going to be close to the underside of the body,thus being higher that the center of the frame.
you might can run a 1 piece shaft ,but you will have to modify the frame extensively.also weakening it. just my $0.02
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Old 03-11-2005, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pink63impala
if you are going to use an adjustable air ride suspension, you are not going to be able to use a one piece driveshaft.im assuming you want it to sit low, and raise it up when you want to ride in it.
so when it sits low, the yoke on the rear end is going to be close to the underside of the body,thus being higher that the center of the frame.
you might can run a 1 piece shaft ,but you will have to modify the frame extensively.also weakening it. just my $0.02
I do agree that the rear slip is a nice option, but it is not nescessary. We built an Impala back in 1983, fitted with a Ford 9" and a 1 piece shaft out of a truck. There were some chassis mods but it was not extensive.

This car was beat to death on a dayly basis (you wouldn't believe what we used to get away with) and dragged on the weekends. Over the years it had many different engines ranging from 283's to 454's. It is still on the road today with a 283 and the chassis has held up fine. When we dragged it with slicks, the rear bumber would almost scrape the ground and it would pick one wheel off the ground, so it was definately using the full range of suspension travel.
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Old 03-13-2005, 08:30 PM
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thanks frendz

i much appreciate your help and knowledge!!

thanks a heap!
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