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Old 06-28-2010, 10:59 PM
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1964 Pontiac 389 Rebuilt (74' 400 Heads) - Have questions...

This is a long project running, looking through some forums and afraid I have messed up in ordering parts.

First, let you know I'm not a mechanic, my brother is... sorta. Enough that I worry less about him doing things than I do about doing it myself... lol So if my 'words and thoughts' are wrong, no prob, just correct me please.

Second, the rundown to catch you all up to speed:


'64 Pontiac Bonneville Brougham w/ 389, rebuilt and bored over .030
forged pistons for 389

heads are from '74 pontiac firebird, 400 block, redone w/ new valves and guides by machinist (about $350 head job)

Attaching the gas-guzzler to a rebuilt turbo 400 w/ a mid-level shift kit

Master rebuilt kit order by machinist who bored out the engine, did the crankshaft, and redid the heads for me, gaskets and all that should be all in order... I hope. But that is small stuff...

In the chaos and lull between tear-down and reconstruction... I have... lost pushrods, timing cover/water pump... bolts... engine mounts... and probably a few other things as we go.... balancer, pulleys, flexplate, yada yada.

Anyways, ordered a flexplate, and the bolts needed to stick the block to the trans, engine mounts, roller rockers. Sorted through the rest of what I have and have an Edelbrock performer intake and think its a 650cc holley 4-barrel.

Goal: Daily Driver that picks up lots of women... drive her daily, get it? I'm in college... anyways... Eats gas? No problem, it looks good parked, too. (And that big back seat...)

Now, what I need:

Is the head/block combo going to be a problem? I see forum posts about people having issues w/ 65 389 blocks and later year heads, but read other posts and sounds like it's no problem. Is there an easy thing to check? Is it just a matter of the valve size and the depressions on the pistons? (if I recall someone mentioned using 400 pistons instead of 389 pistons because of that, but I already have 389 pistons... installed in the block) The heads have not been bolted on yet so I can check things easily, although the vehicle/chaos is 50miles away at the moment.

Also, if it will work, should I be using a 400 head gasket to get more clearance, or is the 389 gasket that came w/ the master kit sufficient?

Also, I'm looking at ordering CCA-1451-16 from Summit for my roller rockers. Now, I need pushrods that match those, the '74 400 heads, and the 64' 389 block. The rocker lift ratio is 1.52, and I need to know what pushrods to order.

And lastly, for now: I need a timing chain cover/water pump. I'm assuming an aluminum pump is the way to go? Recommendations anyone?

I'm kind of on a budget but I have funding. I have a lot of things to do though (driveline modications, new exhaust system, along w/ remaining engine stuff).

Need any part numbers or have questions on things in order to give me better advice, just let me know.

Thanks in advance everyone

Brian

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Old 06-29-2010, 02:17 PM
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Haven't touched a Pontiac in years but I seem to recall the '66 and older engines had a different vlave angle than the '67 and newer engines and it could cause some interference issues, that's probably why the recommended use of 400 pistons. Don't take my failing memory for it though, verify it.
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Old 06-29-2010, 03:35 PM
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Antiques

You have your work cut out for you.

The Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and 1974 heads will fit. The 1962-1966 pistons have reliefs for 1962-1966 heads and the 1965 - 1979 head have different valve angles. However, that does not present a problem if you use a camshaft with valve lift less than .450" and valve duration less than .224 deg. @ .050" lifter rise. If the 1974 heads you are going to use have 2.11" I and 1.77 E valves, the valve clearnce problem will become critical if you float the valves. Any stock replacement camshaft, lifters and pushrods for a 1968 - up Pontiac V8 engine will work. You can use standard Fel-Pro head gaskets. Get gaskets for a 1965 - and later engine. The block has nothing to do with the valve train. Pontiac used camshaft with smaller base circles prior to 1967. From 1967 - 1979 , all OE Pontiac camshafts had 1.330" base circles and all 1967-1979 pushrods are 9.137" - 9.145" depending on the manufacturer. The GM Pontiac pushrods were 9.145" long. Use ARP BB Chevy 7/16" rocker studs if your 1974 heads have factory 3/8" screw-in studs. If the heads have pressed in studs, the 3/8" studs must be pulled out and the holes tapped for ARP 290-7201 7/16" studs with 1/2"-13 base threads. That is because the holes in the heads will be too big to be tapped for standard BB Chevy rocker studs . I think all 1975 -1979 Pontiac heads have screw in studs and can easily be replaced with BB Chevy studs.

The water pump and front timing covers should be for 1968-up Pontiac V8. The 1969-up 11-bolt aluminum timing covers are being offered by some of the Pontiac specialty companies such as Ames Performance Engineering. A rebuilt 1968 -1979 11-bolt water pump is still available from any parts store. The 8-bolt timing covers for a 1963-1968 Pontiac have gone the way of the Do-Do bird so don't even think about using one. Do not ask the counterman for anything for a 1964 Pomntiac, because he will just say "Sorry that part is discontinued" without even looking in his computer. Always ask the counterman for parts for a 1970 Pontiac Bonneville and not for a 1968 through a 1979 Pontiac Bonneville, even though the part may be the same. You must be specific and a 1970 pontiac Bonneville with a TH-400 is a good choice. BTW, don't try to use a 1969 water pump for a Firebird 400 or 350 because the pump shaft and flange is too short and will present belt alignment problems that are nearly insurmoutable. That is a relatively rare water pump and it is likely no one has one anymore except maybe at a salvage yard.

If you have lost the pullies and harmonic balancer, you had better find a 1967-1970 Pontiac Bonneville or Catalina in a salvage yard and get everything off the same vehicle. If you start trying to mix and match the water pump, alternator, P/S and crank pullies from different Pontiacs, it will be just a crap shoot in order to get the belts to line up.

You are fortunate in one way. That is because 1964 FULL SIZE Pontiac (not the 1964 Tempest or GTO) has bolt holes in the block for a 1965 - 1979 startrer and transmission. The starter bolts to the bellhousings on 1962-1964 Pontiacs and it bolts to the block on 1964 full size Pontiacs and all 1965-1979 Pontiacs. The 1962-1964 starters that bolt to the bellhousing are gone forever, besides they were rebuilt to death and no one makes new armatures and starter drives (Bendix) for them anymore. Use a rebuilt starter for a 1975 -1979 Pontiac. Don't ask the counterman for a starter for a 1964 Pontiac because he will say... "Discontinued". All 1975 - 1979 Pontiac starters are high torque starters. Pontiac quit installing the standard low torque starters in 1974. They were only for the Pontiac 326 and 350 CI engines. Good luck, you are going to need it.

Last edited by MouseFink; 06-29-2010 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 06-29-2010, 11:55 PM
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Thanks for replies.

Thanks MouseFink, that reply has lots of good data for me to drool over. I'll be checking my cam specs tomorrow and run those numbers by my mechanic(brother) and my machinist(local engine rebuilder dude). Off the top of my head I can tell you I went w/ a mid-range performance cam from Comp Cams. I'll try to get a part number posted for it here soon. Always good to get second and third opinions. On that note, anyone out there that can confirm MouseFink's data? Not that I doubt it, it's some of the most detailed info I've received so far, 5-stars!

Now, looking at water pumps... I see I can order a FlowKooler or whatever for about $115 or an Edelbrock pump for over 200 bones... Is it worth it to fork over the cash? I want to get this project done within a month, two at most, so I want to limit junk yard salvaging... I live in Montana so hot days are usually not an issue. Not to say I won't invest in some ocean-front property someday down in Arizona.

And a not-so engine question while I have your attention, any suggestions on a dual exhaust setup for the fullsize? Not looking for noise, just good quality breathing. Which, is of course an important engine question... how to make it breath better

Thanks again, and to Hippie too, helps confirm what I'm hearing, that I gotta be extra, extra careful.

Brian
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Old 06-30-2010, 07:00 AM
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flow cooler

I don't feel like a Flow Cooler water pump is worth the extra bucks. The stock replacement 11-bolt water pumps are available at parts stores for $50 and they will do the job just as well. New 11-bolt timing covers are available but are quite pricey but good used ones are very scarce. If you can find a used 8-bolt timing cover that is not corroded too bad you can use it with a rebuilt 8-bolt water pumps. The 8-bolt water pumps are also still available at most parts stores because the 8-bolt water pumps fit 1963-1968 Pontiacs. Many parts stores are removing parts older than 1966 from their catalogs.

I suggest that you install a Melling SPC-7 camshaft. That is the duplicate of the beloved 1965-1970 Pontiac "068" tri-power/H.O. camshaft. You will be happier with it especially with an automatic transmission. No high stall torque converter or low ratio rear end gears are needed with that bumpstick. With Comp Cams 1452-16, 1.65:1 ratio roller tip rocker arms, the SPC-7 camshaft will have 0.455" valve lift and will not need bone crushing valve spring pressure and that cam can use stock pushrods. It is a smooth cam and produces good low end torque that is needed for a heavy car. The 10% higher valve lift and faster valve lift rate created by the 1.65:1 rocker arms will promote faster cylinder filling at a lower RPM and that means good low end tire smokin' torque. If you choose to use the CC 1452-16 1.65:1 rocker arms, you must use a hand grinder and extend the pushrod holes toward the rocker studs. It is required because the 1.65 rocker arms will move the pushrod 0.060" closer to the rocker stud and the pushrods will rub against the head. Remove the rocker studs and grind down 3/4" into the pushrod hole at the stud boss after you grind the pushrod hole as close to the base of rocker stud as you can get. Do that before the heads are installed because you must clean up the metal filings.

A dual exhaust system is essential for good economy and performance. Get rid of the Y-pipe and build a dual exhaust system with 2-1/4" lead off pipes, quiet reverse flow Walker mufflers and 2" tail pipes. Your local muffler shop will have to make the muffler and tailpipe hangers and they are experts at it. Stock muffler and tailpipe hangers are history. If you want to have tubular headers, 1967-1969 Firebird 400/350 headers will fit your 64 Bonneville. With the engine still out of the car, now would be a good time to install tubular headers.

You should get rid of the point type ignition system and install a Petronix electronic ignition conversion kit in your stock distibutor and use the Pertronix coil. From 1996 through 2007, I had the early version of a Pertronix kit in my 1963 Pontiac Catalina with tri-power. That was a great system, started easily under all kinds of conditions and electronically maintained the same coil saturation time from idle RPM to maximum RPM. Point type ignitions decrease the dwell (coil saturation time) from 30 degree to as little as 20 degrees as the RPM increases. Watch a dwell meter as you manually increase the engine RPM.

The Pertronix electronic ignition especially nice because it elininates the chore of replacing the points and constantly checking the dwell. It is difficult to stand on your head and change points and set the dwell especuially on a tri-power Pontiac. I used a GM high winding ratio transistor ignition coil at that time but now a Pertronix high-ratio coil is available and is just as good.

I suggest you look around e-bay for a 1964 Pontiac Shop Manual. That book will be worth every penney you spend on it.

Last edited by MouseFink; 06-30-2010 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:47 AM
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Thanks again MouseFink. Did I mention I want to run on pump gas w/o additives if possible, does it sound like I may have over done it yet or should I probably be good? That was one of the reasons I was looking at 1.52 ratio rockers instead of 1.62 ratio, as to save me some lift and compression. But, I went w/ 400 heads to GET better compression, I just don't want to over-do it... and don't want to short change myself by getting 1.52 when I can use 1.62 ratio and be w/i my compression range.

Brian

Also, got that '63 catalina still? I am looking for a non-dinged up rear bumper, or a mechanical tri-power setup. You can email me on those tho.
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:23 AM
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Compression ratio os OK

The compression ratio with the larger comustion chambers found on the 1971-1979 Pontiac heads used on the 389/400/421/428/455 Pontiac engines will be low enough to use any grade of pump gas. The initial timing advance should be set from 13 to 16 degrees for best performance with a low compression ratio.

The rocker arm ratio does not effect the compression ratio or the grade of gasoline required. The faster cylinder filling with 1.65 rocker arms will raise the dynamic compression pressure at low RPM but will not cause detonation to occur using low octane gasoline. Be advised, NEVER use a long duration camshaft to lower the dynaic compression pressure just so you can use low octane gasoline. If you do, you will throw rocks at your car because of the way it runs. It is impractible to get high performacne on a street driven car using no lead pump gas. You can see what the automakers had to do to engines in order to make them run on low octane gasoline. It takes a computer to get good performance from a low compression engine using low octane, no lead pump gasoline that is not much better than cool aid.

Always keep the distributor vacuum advance mechanism connected to a vacuum source on the engine and make sure if it is in good working order.

Last edited by MouseFink; 06-30-2010 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 06-30-2010, 03:52 PM
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I implore you to do some serious research along the way. Some sites for trustworthy info are:

Butler- http://www.jbp-pontiac.com/

Kens- http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiac...chineshop.html

Nunzi- http://www.nunzi-pontiac-expert.com/

Rock & Roll Engineering- http://pontiacpower.com/

SD Performance- http://www.sdperformance.com/

And there are magazines on Pontiac on the web:

http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/

http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/

And others, you can do a search on google for them. The magazines have tech sections w/articles, etc. But verify everything- there is more bad info for Pontiacs out there than any other make, it seems.

A couple relatively hard to find rubber parts are found HERE. They have the correct valley pan grommets, good rear main seals, new timing cases if yours is still missing (and you can't locate a good, used one), and those hard-to-find heater fittings, too.

Pontiac uses a l o n g woodruff key to locate the damper and cam gear, you'll want to use a new one if the old one has any wear showing.

There are modern cam grinds that are a better choice than anything used by Pontiac back when. You really don't need roller rockers at the low lifts that the Pontiac heads are best at- I'd recommend stamped steel long slot rockers. Rockers are available in 1.5, 1.6 and 1.65 ratios, but if you ask me, select the right cam to begin with and use 1.5 ratio rockers. Don't bother w/roller tip rockers. Either stamped steel or roller fulcrum.

Push rod length has to be determined AFTER the engine is mocked up before final assembly. Otherwise choosing a pushrod length is a shot in the dark- and you want the length to be correct, not just close, for the valve train geometry to be correct.

As far as the 400 heads you have, w/o knowing the casting number there is no way other than to CC them to know what your compression ratio is- so job #1 is to see what you actually have, starting w/the casting number. Then, are the studs screw in w/guide plates, and are all the holes present to bolt the headers up. The problem is- often heads got swapped from Pontiac engine to engine w/o regard for what the head actually was from- this is because all Pontiac engines look about the same. So (as an example) you might have ~114cc chamber 4X heads from a 455, instead of ~98cc 4X heads from a 400.

A post like this could go on for ages, but see what the heads are for a start.
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Old 07-07-2010, 10:34 PM
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11-bolt water pump

I'm looking to just buy a new 11 bolt timing chain cover and water pump. Just wanted to verify the 68-79 11-bolt timing chain cover is the one I want... here's a link to the parts page I'm looking at:

http://www.bopengineering.com/pontia...nt_parts.shtml

Part # PTC121 for the timing chain cover

Also, do I need the extra's like: water pump divider plate (WDP74), Rubber sleeves for divider plate (DPB75) and Timing Cover Alignment Sleeves (DPB75)? Assume I have nothing from the old block. Probably a silly question, but I'd rather know for sure than order and not need... or worse, not order and need.

I'm assuming if that timing chain cover works, then I grab an 11-bolt water pump for a 68-79 as well, and I'm all set, as far as that bundle goes.

If there is something I need for that assembly that you can think of, let me know please.

Again, let me reiterate that I am not a mechanic. This is my first rebuild ever. I work on computers, not cars.

Thanks again for all your help guys!

My next post will have the casting numbers for the heads and the part number for the cam I have, so I can get verified my lift & top deck clearance (hope I got the term right) are good.

Brian
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Old 07-08-2010, 06:51 AM
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You need it all

You will need all of those parts. You will also need a timing cover to block gasket and a front seal if the new timing cover does not have one. The block should have two alignment dowels that the two lower timing cover bolts pass through. Those dowels are missing on most Pontiac blocks by now and are just another one of the hundreds of Pontiac collectables that I would get them in savlage yards. Those dowels are to align the timing cover seal with the centerline of the crankshaft to lessen the chance of a oil leak. The timing cover can be installed without those dowels but it take a little more finesse and care when you tighten the four timing cover to block bolts. If you do not have a new harmonic damper, I suggest installing a Fel Pro harmonic damper repair sleeve. It will give a new running surface for the seal.
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Old 07-08-2010, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gen_x_forever
I'm looking to just buy a new 11 bolt timing chain cover and water pump. Just wanted to verify the 68-79 11-bolt timing chain cover is the one I want... here's a link to the parts page I'm looking at:

http://www.bopengineering.com/pontia...nt_parts.shtml

Part # PTC121 for the timing chain cover

Also, do I need the extra's like: water pump divider plate (WDP74), Rubber sleeves for divider plate (DPB75) and Timing Cover Alignment Sleeves (DPB75)? Assume I have nothing from the old block. Probably a silly question, but I'd rather know for sure than order and not need... or worse, not order and need.

I'm assuming if that timing chain cover works, then I grab an 11-bolt water pump for a 68-79 as well, and I'm all set, as far as that bundle goes.

If there is something I need for that assembly that you can think of, let me know please.

Again, let me reiterate that I am not a mechanic. This is my first rebuild ever. I work on computers, not cars.

Thanks again for all your help guys!

My next post will have the casting numbers for the heads and the part number for the cam I have, so I can get verified my lift & top deck clearance (hope I got the term right) are good.

Brian
A couple tips- in no particular order:

You'll need the rubber grommet for the PCV valve that fits in the valley cover- if you use that style valley cover, the LONG woodruff key for the crankshaft.

If you plan on having a heater, there are the heater bung in the head. BOP Engineering p/n HHF76.

Even if you plan on using an electric fuel pump, leave the mechanical pump's eccentric bolted to the cam. Otherwise you'll get an imbalance.

Keep the oil pressure at or below 60 psi, you don't need any more- all more will do is wear the cam gear quicker. You can add a 3/8" pipe plug at the dist. gear w/a 0.030" hole in it to positively lube the gears.

I seem to remember mentioning the rear main seal, but be sure to get a good one- they were rope-type originally. Check the crank for wear in this area as well.

There will be plugs in the oil galleys, behind the cam timing gear. One of these will have a small (~0.030") hole through it to lube the timing set. This tiny hole will very often be occluded, so use a small pin or tie wrap wire, etc. to poke through and free it up. New pipe plugs (one w/hole) should come w/the set of new core plugs that you'll be getting.

Be sure to get 'real' Pontiac lifters, not re-boxed Chevy's. A Pontiac lifter will have the oil band beginning ~1.125- ~1.170 (Rhodes lifter) up from the foot. Chevy's will be ~0.875". The diameter is the same.
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gen_x_forever
I'm looking to just buy a new 11 bolt timing chain cover and water pump. Just wanted to verify the 68-79 11-bolt timing chain cover is the one I want... here's a link to the parts page I'm looking at:

http://www.bopengineering.com/pontia...nt_parts.shtml

Part # PTC121 for the timing chain cover

Also, do I need the extra's like: water pump divider plate (WDP74), Rubber sleeves for divider plate (DPB75) and Timing Cover Alignment Sleeves (DPB75)? Assume I have nothing from the old block. Probably a silly question, but I'd rather know for sure than order and not need... or worse, not order and need.

I'm assuming if that timing chain cover works, then I grab an 11-bolt water pump for a 68-79 as well, and I'm all set, as far as that bundle goes.

If there is something I need for that assembly that you can think of, let me know please.

Again, let me reiterate that I am not a mechanic. This is my first rebuild ever. I work on computers, not cars.

Thanks again for all your help guys!

My next post will have the casting numbers for the heads and the part number for the cam I have, so I can get verified my lift & top deck clearance (hope I got the term right) are good.

Brian

I see that BOP Engineering is reproducing many of the parts that I had to obtain from a salvage yard after Pontiac discontinued them. Good for them, it may keep the Pontiac engines alive a little longer. BOP(Buick-Olds-Pontiac) Engineering has enough courage to invest in reproduction Pontiac parts. There is a dwindling market for tPontiac parts and it takes a lot of dedication to tool up and reproduce those parts.

The front cover assembly, less water pump, will require:
PC121
WDP74
DPB75

Rebuilt 11-bolt water pumps are still available at most local parts stores because they were used from 1968 through the end of the Pontiac era in 1979. The late 1963 -1968 8-bolt water pumps are becoming hard to find locally at some stores. I purchased seven 4-bolt water pumps (1955 - early 1963) from an independent parts store that was dumping their inventory of discontinued parts. They sold them to me at $10 each, no core charge. The same happened with the Holley rebuilt 1962-1967 AFB (625 CFM) carbs. I bought eight of those carburators from the old Chief Auto Supply (Southland Corporation, 7-11 Stores) for $25 each with no core charge. I sold six of those AFB carburators for $50 each and kept two. Two of the 1962-1967 AFB carburators made a nice dual quad set up. Yes, an AFB carburator was used in 1967 but only on the full-size Pontiacs. If you are in the right place at the right time, you can find some real good bargans in used Pontiac parts. i switched to Chevy because I am to old and my knees were too weak to walk through swap meets looking for Pontiac parts.

You should use the BOP Eng., TA119 Alignment "sleeves" (dowels) instead of salvage yard parts as I wrote before. I did not know anyone was reproduction those dowels until now. You should also use the BOP Eng. neoprene rear crankshaft main seal for Pontiac 350,389,400 engines. The original style replacement asbestos rear main seals were replaced by some sort of EPA approved nylon seal that you cannot cut with a razor blade. It is difficult to get either those "rope" seals to work properly and they usually start leaking at 1,500 miles. A leaking rear main seal is not a a big problem with an automatic transmission, if you don't mind leaving a trail of oil on the pavement and a cloud of blue smoke from oil on the hot mufflers. . However, with a manual transmission, a leaking rear main seal is unforgiving. Leaking seals has been a problem with Chevrolet V8 and Pontiac V8 engines, but especially Pontiac V8 engines. Chevrolet V8 engines continued to be made after 1979 so the engineers finally got smart in 1986 and introduced the one-piece rear seal which is mechanic proof. .

Last edited by MouseFink; 07-08-2010 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:55 AM
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head problem

looking for the casting number... I don't see a long string of numbers. only thing on the front or back of head that I see is '0722' that is stamped. on the heads along where the exhaust comes off there are raised numbers A230 on one head and B230 on the other. Only had a moment to look, so will take a closer look in better light today after work. Did a few quick google searches for those numbers and pontiac or chevy heads. Not seeing what I should see for a '74 pontiac head from a 400... as I understand it. May have a big problem here lol. The bolts and water jackets on the heads line up is why we thought they were a go to use. I now wonder what they are from. Will post later with more details.

thanks again on the w. pump/t. cover stuff, will be ordering that today.

*edit: the heads do have GM marked on them, raised. And they were used, to my understanding on a firebird's 400 block so I hope I'm still good to use them, just need to find out what it is and make sure all my valve train will be in good order and then I'll be happy. At this point I can't be too picky.

*second edit: I checked the heads today, and I don't see any 6-9 digit casting number on the front/back/sides of the head. I assume its not going to be inside w/ the valves or underneath the head but these may be poor assumptions. I did look around the studs to see if I could find a number anywhere. I have confirmed they are 7/16" screw in studs, so maybe that might help identify. There is a marking showing "D O> N" (the O> is an arrowlike symbol pointing to the N). Only other numbers I see look to indicate which exhaust is for which cylinder. I did paint the heads already, but I looked carefully for what may have been painted-over stamped numbers and do not see any depressions anywhere. This is rather frustrating... any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Last edited by gen_x_forever; 07-09-2010 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 07-09-2010, 07:10 PM
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Most all Pontiac heads have the casting code cast into the head above the center exhaust ports. The casting code, along w/the date code- located either on the side of the head or by the rocker studs- will help determine the valve and combustion chamber size.

The "A &B 230" is the date code, it indicates the heads are from a year ending in "0", as in 1970. Heads from '70 could be 11, 12, 13, 16, 64, or 614 (unlikely- this is the RA IV head, will have round exhaust ports, not "D"-shaped ports).

More HERE (randomly selected). Also several of the sites I linked above will have info connected to the casting code.
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Old 07-10-2010, 05:48 PM
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correct casting #'s, 1970 heads from 400, 72cc

Ok, the two numbers "1" and "3" while slanted and on seperate exhaust ports are on the center ports on both heads. So, looks like we have 1970 heads, 2.11/1.77 valves, 7/16" screw in studs, and 72cc combustion chamber.

So with that resolved, back to my original questions:

1.5 or 1.65 rockers (for clearance reasons)

compression ratio/pump gas w/ those heads? Whats your opinion on the head swap from the original heads? Which looking at the stats, I increased valve size, but also increased my combustion chamber size from 68cc to 72cc... as I understand it, that slightly lowers my compression ratio (but not much), and the larger valves give me better breathing, so more torque, especially at the lower RPM. So.... all in all, good swap?

And I guess I answered my own question about pump gas... if I lower my compression slightly from the original I don't think I have to worry about that. My problem to check atm is piston/valve clearance. Cause if that's a limiting factor and I can I'll do w/ the 1.5 rockers, but logically if I can I should do 1.65 rockers, I should. (But I don't want to if I have to do any hand grinding or machining, I need to get this whole thing assembled before summer ends)

*edit: Well, parts are on order. Thanks again guys for the help and advice. I have not purchased headers yet and if you have any recommendations for a good price, let me know. Also, I didn't get the driveline w/ the turbo 400, so is there a good place to order that part? I have my original driveline, so was just going to change out the yoke piece on the end and get machinist to adjust the overall length of the driveline. I just don't have the yoke piece to attach to the tranny since I don't have the driveline the tranny was attached to. Any help is appreciated, otherwise I'll end up salvaging, but that shouldn't be too bad. Probably going to have to salvage for pulleys anyways.

Wish me luck, and thanks Hotrodders.com & members.

Last edited by gen_x_forever; 07-13-2010 at 05:12 PM.
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