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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2012, 07:03 AM
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I know, an old thread, but what did the guy end up doing -- Ford V-8 or Chevy? Or did he give up on the whole thing?

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2012, 07:52 AM
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fixed the problem

Actually what we ended up doing was boring out the 287 to a Rambler 327. Turns out that they used the exact same block for both the 287 and the 327, so we decided to go that route instead of a complete swap. We found a 4-Barrel 327 intake, and we had all of the valve covers, pullies, and different parts chromed. It looks pretty damn flashy now.
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Old 08-13-2012, 10:48 AM
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If it took a 1/4" overbore you're lucky! It's been RUMORED that the early 287s were actually cast with real thick cylinder walls, but not substantiated. That's a LOT of extra cast iron when an easy change to the sand cores would allow for a thinner casting. As long as it works you're good, of course! I would just go bore a 287 out to 4.00" (stock 327 bore) without sonic checking the bores to make sure they are indeed that thick. I'm sure your machinist checked it first. Stock 287 bore is 3.75".

I wouldn't mind knowing the casting number on that block. The only casting number I have for a 287 is 3169824. I have 8 different numbers for the 327, only two for 63-66 though. Would be real interesting if the casting number were for the 327. The bore should be cast into the block on top just behind the right head.
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Old 08-13-2012, 02:54 PM
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bored out

When we looked into it, we found that the blocks are exactly the same size for the 287 and 327. Obviously the pistons were bigger on the 327, but we put flat-top performance pistons in it, and a guy from another town around here bored it out 1/4" and said everything was great. The crank had to be fixed up a little bit, but other than that it went together smooth and everything. We ran it on the stand for about an hour and it sealed up and everything, so we sent it out the door. I'll have to ask the guy if I can get the casting number from it. I don't think he's got it in the car yet. I believe he's waiting until harvest is over before he does that.
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Old 08-13-2012, 03:33 PM
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Externally the blocks for the 1956-61 250, 63-66 287, and 1957-66 327 are identical. Cranks and rods interchange. The only difference between the three is the bore in 1/4" increments -- 250 has 3.50" bore, 287 3.75", and 327 4.00". All other parts interchange -- I don't think the 327 even uses bigger valves than the 250. The only difference other than the bore is that the 250 used a solid lifter cam and adjustable rocker arms (and even those will interchange with the other motors, and the 250 can have hydraulic lifters and rockers installed).

If he can find that casting number (should be on one side, have 7 digits and start with a "31" -- there are two 327 numbers that start with a "4" though, and one of those may only have six digits) I sure would like to see it! It may be a 327 casting number.

I just want to reiterate (for other readers) that only the EARLY 287 blocks are supposedly thick cylinder wall 327 blocks (which would have been cast in 1963, March-June, most likely would be in a late 1963 model car, the 287 was introduced in May 1963). The casting number may be the same for all whether the cylinder walls are thick or not. I haven't seen many 287s nor had any checked, I'm going by second hand info from those who have. Most 287 blocks are not thick enough to take a 1/4" bore. If you have a 287 the date code is on the generator/alternator bracket, stamped on a tag that is screwed on. AMC did all their V-8s that way (later ones have the tag on the front of the right valve cover), they didn't stamp a date code on the block. That's the one thing I really hate about the V-8s! So check the cylinder wall thickness before boring.
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