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Old 02-02-2011, 10:08 AM
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1965 dodge

i've been searching the web for a straight axle set-up(complete) for my 65 dodge coronet 440-2 dr. hardtop. speedway motors has an axle / springs/ tie rods / spindles, a kit that i can fit to the car. but what i'm really looking for is a complete kit, all of the previous mentioned, plus the pitman arm, drag link, what steering box to use, etc. anyone done a mopar "B" body straight axle conversion-something that is tried and true ? i really want to do this, but it's got to be correct. thanx, hope to hear from someone. good bunch of hotrodders on this site, it's new to me. found it by mistake, good mistake for a change. jessebelle
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Old 02-06-2011, 12:36 PM
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stearing

1966 plymouth furry 3 we installed ibeam axle from speedway : use the vega steering box!set up for cross steering speeday sells pitman arm and mount . you will probebly have to make your oun drag link [dont forget to mount spring shackles to the front] .for traditional steering run a corvair box speedway sells them too hope I helped! [the 66 furys my sons car]
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Old 02-06-2011, 03:08 PM
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Plenty of front suspension suppliers still exist, Borgeson, Super Bell, Chassis Engineering, Speedway, TCI to name a few. CAE appears to be out of business, I've purchased straight tube axles from them in the '60's and '70's for projects, they were primarily circle track people.

Then there's the good old Ford and other vans...
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Old 02-06-2011, 05:22 PM
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1966 straight axle car

hey painted jester, thanx to you and 68 nova ss too. on your 66 plymouth conversion, this task would be less confusing to me if i could actually see a completed straight axle conversion on a 65 or 66 b body car, as i'm sure that dodge/plymouth are close to being the same car, under a different name. if it is of no inconvenience to you, would you call me ? i live in sayre, pa. it is near the ny border. (570) 888-3010. please leave a message if no answer and i'll return the call. i'm very interested in doing this, but as in my prior post, i cannot experiment on this car, as it's completely done. i must be nuts, but i've always wanted 2 things in this car, a blower motor, which i did, it was a task, but easier than a straight axle conversion. item #2 is the straight axle, so i hope we can discuss it, better yet, i'm hoping you are at a reasonable distance from me, and would allow me to come see it. again, much thanx to all of you.
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Old 02-06-2011, 05:33 PM
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You sure you want to post your phone number to the entire universe? Bad idea.
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Old 02-06-2011, 07:12 PM
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no no

phone # on the internet bad idea see if you can get it off and private mesage us!!!
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Old 02-06-2011, 07:21 PM
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i forgot to do that(again). i'll PM when important info is being passed. thanx guys.
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:25 PM
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straight axle

econoline is a good choice too! drums are same bolt patern but it has to be shortened 3 inches in the center and for the price at speedway at $600.oo hub to hub spindles ,rotors, calipers and all hardware! you cant fabricate it for that.I used a speedway axle kit on a 67 chev big block and did not have to weld or cut any thing. [we bolted the spring hangers on] That way when he was tired of the straight axle he could just put his stock components back on! "Put car level on concrete, drop 2 plum bobs one off both front fenders to top of ball joint mark fender so you can put back in exact same place if it moves, that will be the close to centerline for your tube axle.now pull front suspention off frame dont cut or butcher anything {you may want to reinstall everything further down the road]!put car back level and put plum bobs back on fender marks! slide your straight axle under car and line up on plumbs! Fenders are not exact for measuring now at front of rear springs exact same point on each spring hanger cross measure to each king pin,if measument is the same,jack axle up in mock position to frame cross measure again and block it set spring sadles and springs on axle put u bolts on loose so as they wont fall off axle but you can still move them side to side. slide spring and sadle untill both rear hangers are touching frame in a good area for mounting check front of spring and make sure its under frame and in a good area for mounting if not move spring acordingly,measure from rear spring front hanger to front spring rear hanger,right rear to right front & left rear to left front measurment should be the same! then cross measure right r to left f, left r to right f. measurment should be the same mark it with a scribe or a soap stone clamp it in place. make sure front spring still lines up with frame if its a little off you may have to make a pad or gusset! cross measure front of springs, should be pretty close check axle & cross measure it again set king pin at propper angle and tighten u bolts its ready to be tacked . after its tacked put weight on front axle, front of spring will flex and move forward on frame! when frame
weight is just off the jack thats where the shackles go straight up, mark it, jack it back up and put hangers on and clamp, cross measure they should be very close tack em in place re measure every thing and check king pin angles install shackles and measure evrything again if it checks out weld everthing in place! if king pin angles are a little off they use wedges to bring them back! there you go! 2 guys in a garage can do it with basic tools in a few days!! I have a shop and I do it for a living I have more equipment and I do it the easy way LOL that was a lot for one finger I proof read and hope theres no mistakes.{and there are other ways to do this}but you dont need a lot of knowledge to do it this way! I live in N. Michigan

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Old 02-07-2011, 11:56 AM
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add on to other post

tried to call you last night I could not get through, when I did it was late, apologise to your wife for me . I reread what i wrote and its too late to add to it!!] when you let the weight down on the springs and the springs slide forward your axle will move forward also, how much depending on arch and flex in spring .you have to move accordingly. I'll elaberate when we talk on phone. Some one allready has probebly caught this [guys are realy quick here ] I type slow and think ahead faster then I type and skip things !we'll go over bump steer and other problems that youll be taking care of,and other people here can help you with ! I ran gas class in the 60s and 70s a lot of cars did not run straight axles !! I Myself ran a straight axle becouse when my front end came up my caster camber and wheel&tire angles did not change and tires stayed flat on the ground But you had bump steer to worry about!!!! and bump stear can throw you in another lane!! if you have my number on your caller id. give me a call I tried to put pictures on this site but it keeps denying me saying I need to own the file or something like that [I was able to get my avatar on pretty easy though ] . you still need to think about shocks and other things.[ these guys can help!] (90/10s are not good on the street your front end comes up and stays there becouse of slow return rate but there are some good adjustable shocks! you also need to think about ride when you order springs!! stiff like gasser or smooth like cady. 68 nova ss sounds like hes done quite a few too

Last edited by painted jester; 02-07-2011 at 12:10 PM. Reason: add on
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