[killerformula]

Hey folks,


I know there are some die-hard ford guys out there, and I need your advice! Well here's the long and short of it. A friend of mine STOLE this 65 fairlane for like 1200 dollars a couple of years ago. Runs and shifts great, doesn't leak or burn a drop, interior is great, body is strait. It's by no means perfect, but a fun, cheap project for a couple of guys working with limited means. We started off with a 2bbl stock 289. We dropped a performer intake on it and a four-barrel as well as some better plugs, wires, coil and other basic stuff. The thing has sat like that for probably a year and probably also has gas in the oil. I guess I hope the thing turns over next time we go out.


Anyway... I'd like to get this thing moving. I realize its not going to be the terror of the road with the 289 but my friend is new to hotrodding and I'd like to give him a good experience to start with. He's 31, about to get married, and it would be a cool present for his new wife (and kindof from me too) to get this car turned to an old-school rod.

Question: What can I do to get this thing into the 15's or maybe (not kidding myself here) into the high 14's? We'd like to keep the stock heads, we're willing to do cam and exhaust, maybe a converter on it and a shift kit. We'll freshen it up a bit, but we're going to leave the bottom end. Does anybody have experience massaging a 289? We don't want to kill our bottom end on it given the displacement and the size of the car.

Ok, I'm rambling now, any suggestions?

Thanks in advance-

K

[poncho62]

Will take a lot to get that 289 into the 14s.

A friend had a factory hi-po 289 in a 65 Falcon, that would do it but thats a lighter car. I think you will need to look at the heads.


Also, get some gears, at least 3.73s.

[4 Jaw Chuck]

Some headers and some pipes along with a little head porting/ 351W heads will likely get you the most bang for the buck. As for 1/4 mile times your gonna need some gears to get that thing moving, something in the 3.5 to 3.73 range would be good. A cam in the 272 adv dur range would be a good complement for the weight and the stock bottom end.

If she's tired and needs some rings, a good rebuild will really bring back that new motor snap. Many people hop up their motors when really all it needs is a fresh set of rings and a valve job, easy 50HP from a new tight engine if that 289 has seen a few miles.

I'll bet she hits the 15's with that combo pretty easy.

[DoubleVision]

heads got my vote, 289`s have a 4 inch bore and short stroke, take advantage of the bigger bores breathing capabilities. but keep in mind the small kinked up exhaust port.

[killerformula]

Hmmm, so stock heads aren't going to get us anywhere eh? Any recommended heads?

K

[crazy larry]

the 289 i'm gonna be building up is getting a set of gt-40's.

but everyone says to go with the afr's or something.....

[4 Jaw Chuck]

The 289 heads have lots of meat but not enough there to compete with a 69-71 351W head fully ported. If it were me I would keep the stock heads, easy to get compression with those tiny chambers. 16 hours with a die grinder would improve them enough for a light cam like a 272 adv dur, and a set of 1.82 intakes and 1.55 exhausts (stock 351W) should fit with no ultra-fancy machining and will be enough for that cam. Grinding material out of heads with a grinder is sure a lot cheaper than buying new.

Just realize you are paying for these heads in labour, a new set of GT-40 heads look pretty cheap after 16 hours with a die grinder covered in metal shavings.

Depends on the cash/timeframe situation.

[killerformula]

GT40's are nice, but I've been discouraged from them given their strange exhaust design and that 99% of the time they require custom headers (per summit).

K

[crazy larry]

now i could be wrong.
but.
i think the gt-40 P heads require a special exhaust. or do i have it backwards? there's a regular gt-40 head, and then theres a gt-40 P head. let me find my book..........

[killerformula]

OK, see, now that shows why I'm asking the q's about ford! So how do you get a GT40 head, are they in summit as well?

K

[crazy larry]

click.

check ebay.

they make 'em iron or aluminum.

you ought to be able to get a set from a wrecking yard or off ebay for what a new one costs.

[Carbed95GT]

Killer,
Here's what you need to know. "True" GT40 heads came on 1993-1995 Cobras and Lightnings. They have a 1.84 intake, and a 1.54 exhaust valve. They were discontinued by Ford shortly after I bought mine. They require no special headers (you could use factory, or a replacement like BBK or Mac). The GT40P heads started on 1996.5 Expolrers and Mountaineers. Those have a 1.84 intake valve, but have a 1.46 exhaust valve, just like a stock E7 head. Their chambers are also slightly smaller, which gives you a tad higher compression. You will require special headers (made by Mac..........cost about $250) for these heads, due to the funky location of the spark plug. Stock headers will bolt up, but you WILL fry your plug boots (we tried, don't ask). Now, we have had BOTH styles of GT40 heads. Both made EXCELLENT power (the P-headed car ran 13.69 @ 98 with stock gears and a stock intake; the regular GT40-headed car went 12.99 @ 106.65). However, when it comes to personal preference, I'd take the regular GT40 any day over the P heads. I say this because they come with the valve sizes I prefer (without having to have the exhaust valve made larger), availability (you can find them used for VERY cheap), and the way they perform when ported. So, there you have it. Summit telling you that a different header is required isn't a lie.............because they're trying to sell you NEW GT40P heads. On the standard heads though, they're full of beans.

P.S. FWIW, I now have the regular GT40 heads on my 89. They propelled the GT into the 12s, so we'll see how they do on this one.

[red347]

You are right. The "P" version requires the special headers. Also cehck out this site for some flow numbers on the different heads:http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/f...a/castiron.htm
I might look at the Senior's. Not to spendy.

Ron

[firestone]

I would look at a set of AFR 165s. They are expensive, but they come CNC ported and once you get whatever heads you would otherwise buy to flow like them, you will have way more money in the other heads.

Adam

[KULTULZ]

The easiest and cheapest way out of this dilema is to find an 87/ 5.0L HO takeout in good condition, put your intake on it and sell the FI to even out the purchase.

The 289 is old technology. You want performance cheap, you go with more current technology.