1965 GTO hard top, remove exterior trim - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:49 AM
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1965 GTO hard top, remove exterior trim

I need help in removing the trim, I need to repaint the car

Thanks
Norm

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Old 02-09-2013, 10:57 AM
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What trim are we talking about, there are a lot of it on the car. If you are talking about all of it, let's do one at a time and you can learn how to do each piece then go do it then post the next one.

Brian
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:48 AM
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Exterior trim, 1965 GTO hard top

Brian,

Thanks for your reply. Your right, one piece at a time would be best.
May we start with the trim over the top on the window left and right side.

Norm
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:14 AM
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The drip rail???? we'll need pics
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:22 AM
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I'm sorry Norm, I forgot all about your question. I thought you meant the window moulding and went looking for my tool out in the garage and forgot about the whole thing when I couldn't find it. But DBM has a point, what exactly are you talking about, it sounds like you are talking about the drip rail, those aren't so easy to remove without damage but what exactly are you talking about?

Brian
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:13 AM
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Brian,

I was asking about the rain drip trim. It looks like it is in 2 pieces with a small 1 inch piece.

Thanks
Norm
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:04 AM
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you peel it off from the bottom edge, starting at the end and working your way to the other end. Here's a great video on it.

He uses a clip tool and they work good but can leave little dimples so you gotta be careful if you choose to use that tool.
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:35 AM
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One of the decisions to make of course is whether you remove them at all. They are very difficult to get off and on without damage so it could be one of those things that you protect and just leave there, it isn't like masking off a moulding down the side of the car, you can get away with doing a darn nice job looking like they were removed. It very seldom rusts under them, there are no seams, welds, or anything under them, leaving it right where it is could be a way to go for you.

Brian
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:59 AM
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An old fashond bottle opener works like a dream just put some masking tape where theres metal to metal contact so you dont scratch anything...The prong goes on the bottom lip and you pull upwards ,twisting a little at a time as you go ,piece of cake...I've never found anything that works better...
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:04 AM
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Will second that on the bottle opener, its like it was made to do this task!!
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:37 AM
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I agree, the bottle opener is the "tool" if you are going to remove them. Scratching it isn't the biggest concern it's buckling or denting it. Extreme care must be taken to not try to remove it before the entire bottom lip is loosened. And the bottle opener when pulling the bottom lip off is being pushed against the side of the moulding and can very easily dent it. Again, getting the whole thing gently loose is the trick.

This is why I suggest to think about it before you decide if you are even going to pull them off. Just think about it good and read and watch videos you can find before you do it.

Brian
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:24 AM
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Agree Brian, these things can be damaged so easily is is not even funny. So be extremely careful and go as slowly as possible working the piece a little at a time. I try my best to get these things off as best I can and still sometimes make some type of ripple some where along the piece. I have a guy that polishes and straightens these things out to a brilliant deep finish so even if it does not come off undamaged he can take care of it anyway. Usually these things are marked up, scratched, or dinged anyhow and need to be refinished any way you look at it. I don't think I have ever had one come in that was untouched and perfect.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:43 AM
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I just like to look at helping people with all different skill levels, you know what I mean? If someone is doing a nice driver at home, removing those mouldings may not be needed to reach their expectations while removing them may be out of their league and leaving them there though not perfect is much better than having them bent up without the place to get them repaired. Heck, I have seen them removed where they were simply not repairable. We know that we wouldn't do that but not everyone who reads these posts can do that. And not only the OP, who else comes along and reads this?

I think it's our responsibility to give all the advice needed for a home hobbiest to enjoy restoring his car, if that includes a warning to not do something, I feel it's appropriate as much as the best advice on how to do it properly. I remember how many of use pulled off the first set without damage? I know I didn't! I fixed it but bent it pulling it off. And I can fix them, I do stainless repair so it wasn't a big deal. But man o man they are not easy to get off without damage.

Brian
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:47 PM
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Brian and others

Thanks for the advice, I watched the video and read the posts. Now I need to think about removing that trim. I will post my next steps.

Thanks again

Norm
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:15 AM
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if they are rusted the seam under the seam sealer in the gutter is probably rusted too. So if you plan on drip checking the drip rail then have a close look at that first. Is it rusty? Will digging out the seam sealer and cleaning it up be a lot easier with the moulding off?

I'm currently working at a snail's pace on a 65 Mustang, I do this work for a living, and have no plans on removing the drip rail mouldings. It's not a full restoration and the mouldings are pretty clean so I taped them off. Sure I can take them off but it's more work and I'd rather save that energy for the work I get paid to do. Then again, drip rail mouldings aren't very hard, but you have to know how much little force it can take to distort them. Then again, I recently saw the shop guru take one off recently with a small slide hammer and it came off with no damage.
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