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Old 06-17-2013, 10:29 PM
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killer ratrod--- dyno's

Dynos' were in use a lot of years before 1966, WE had a chassis dyno in the engineering dept when I was in college in the 50's. and I remember seeing the cloud about 18 inches above the 3 carbs a guy had on his engine.

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Old 06-18-2013, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by fordss View Post
Well the engine is 390 the intake has z on it if that helps just want to know what the real hp of the engine . Ford say like 315 to 335 hp for year . Any help
There are several different models of the 390 in 1966 which were rated from 255 to about 335 hp.

The 255 horse is a low compression (for the day) 2 barrel Ford with mild cam.

The 265 is the same thing with a little more compression.

The 275 steps up the compression adds a little cam timing

The 315 is a 275 with a Ford 4 bbl.

The 335 is a 315 with a Holley 4bbl and better exhaust manifolding, only available on the GT Fairlane and Mustang.

There are more but these like the 335 were not availabe on station wagons.

The 390 was Ford's top end performance engine from January 1961 to January 1962 it was rated at 375 with a big Holley 4 bbl or 401 with 3 Holley 2 bbls using a 276 degree measured from .006 inch lift mechanical cam. There was also a 340 horse version of the 401 horse engine using a hydraulic cam for the street. So if you want to pep a 390 up there are a lot of options. The standard FE installations really suffer from a crummy exhaust manifold which is what Ford calls that box bolted on the side of the heads. This engine gives up a solid 50 HP or more right there. Most any kind of header long, short, tuned or not is a considerable improvement. Dual exhaust is a must as well.

Unless you can afford aftermarket heads or know a lot about porting don't touch the heads with a grinder as the FE porting is really easy to screw up and hard to improve, not that it's all that great it's just these ports especially on the intake have some subtle traps that if you don't understand what the port is doing will absolutly kill power production when fixed incorrectly which happens to look like the right thing to do but isn't. You can pocket port the guide and blend the seat cut in the port and use the larger 406 valves 2.02/2.05 and 1.55/1.6; otherwise stay out to avoid the temptation to make improvements.

An aluminum intake and water pump takes a lot of weight off this monster so are very desirable. Aluminum heads, also, if you can afford them.

These engine's are rated pretty accuratly for the day. Compared to todays power ratings they look pretty optimistic as these test engines were spec on which production isn't that good, they ran without accessories and better exhaust than they got installed. Comprared to todays ratings these are probably close to 50-60 horses higher than they'd rate at by today's methods.

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Old 06-18-2013, 10:40 AM
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Add this to your library: How to Rebuild Ford Big Block Engines and check in here: 332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum Also Tech Inspector posted some great info on this forum read it all http://www.clubhotrod.com/ford-fe-bi...ft-390-a.html:
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