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1966 Mustang turns over but will not start part 2?

2K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  JeffB 
#1 ·
Still having trouble with a 66 mustang, 289, C-4 completely stock set up.

The car ran great, was parked, and failed to start the next morning. Distributor, points, condenser, cap, wires, and rotor 2 months old. For a few days I would get spark one time I checked it and no spark the next time I checked it, but even when I had spark the engine would not start.

Now, we have no spark at all from the coil, and can not figure out why? Here are the tests I have done.

1. Confirmed 12.5 volts at the battery, good connections, good ground to block.

2. Continuity from starter solenoid to coil. Checked all connections to be clean and tight.

3. Confirmed voltage at points, checked condenser to be sure it was not grounding itself, confirmed distributor shaft is turning and points are opening and closing, points surface looked good.

4. Coil checked out good, but replaced it with a known good coil.

5. Checked ignition switch by running a jumper wire from the plus battery terminal to the plus coil terminal and attempting to start to no avail.

Anyone have an idea why I am not getting spark from the coil? Makes no sense.
 
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#2 ·
no start

point #5, u ran a hot wire from battery to coil and still no spark??
wow.. u still could have a bad condenser.. what u can try is pull cap and rotor. turn engine over till points are closed. turn on sw to run (engine off) and with a small screw driver just open/close points and look for a spark between them. no spark replace points cond again. spark then ck the rotor and cap.. ya i know it's all new but no guarantee they are working right.
this should be a no brainer but little things drive me nuts too.. 5 gaskets later on my trans pan and it still leaks..
 
#3 ·
Spark at the points

Thanks for the tip. I tried turning the motor over with the cap off the distributor and saw sparks coming from the points, but I think you are right the next step would be to replace the points and condenser.

As far as your pan gasket leaking, try this if you take it off again. Take a strait edge and put it along the surface of the gasket face to check for warpage. If it is warped you my be able to do some hammer and dolly work on that to straighten it out. If not replace the pan. I always use an inch pound torque wrench to install mine.
 
#5 ·
good for u...

a pain that a 3$ part puts u down...
i got a new pan and it still leaked.. can't find the problem anywhere.. i don't believe i've made 5 mistakes in a row, so i gotta figure out how to nail this down.. i figure i'll fill it up again run it , let it sit till it drips and jack up and ck it right then..
 
#7 ·
nope not shifter


i changed the bolts back to the stock one's, thinking maybe new one's were just a tad too long. cleaned outside of gasket area REALLY good today. black RTV on finger tip and smeered it on around gasket area.. droped car down level and 15 minutes later a drip from the rear side of pan.. i just ordered a new alum pan so i'll get NO flex.. hopefully..
 
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