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Old 04-03-2013, 06:46 PM
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1967 C10 Chevy Pickup

I have this idea that I've been mulling over. I have a 1967 Chevy C10 long box pickup that currently has a straight 6 in it with a 4 on the floor. I also have a 1965 Chrysler Newport that will be going to a scrap yard soon but Ill be taking the 383 and transmission out (the engine was totally rebuilt about 15 years ago and ran once for about 5 mins) before it does. Originally, I was going to put a 383 stroker in the pickup at some point and save the Mopar 383 for a future project like a Roadrunner or a Challenger. However, the thought of combining the two is intriguing. Are there any conversion kits to stick a big block Mopar into a Chevy pickup frame or would this be a totally custom job and im thinking crazy?
Any help at all is appreciated!
Thanks!

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Old 04-03-2013, 07:08 PM
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custom fit as far as I know.The distributor in front is nice.There is a 77 Camaro at my track with a 383 dodge in the bay,looks weird.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:14 PM
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Thanks! Yeah the distributor in front is nice. Dont have to lean across so far to time. But, ive done it so many times on GM's that I guess its no big deal.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:19 PM
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You could mount it with a hurst motor plate. Have to remove the bellhousing crossmember and make a rear mount. I had a similiar setup with a 455 poncho in a 65 ford truck. Depends how ambitious you are. Here's a link for front mount ideas.
SBC Hurst Motor Mount?? - THE H.A.M.B.
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:08 PM
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make sure its a rear sump oil pan.
i would build some side mounts for it. and a speedway trans crossmember.
ive done a buncha cross breeding, the only thing you need is a welder, a grinder, and a lill will. not to mention your poison of choice.
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:03 AM
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whats a 383 weight?? might want to change out the front springs also..
sounds different.. why not..
your 67 most likely is the lowhump cab.. how much larger is the 727
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:53 PM
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Thank you all! I will have to look at the link for the hurst mount. I dont know the weight of the Mopar 383. Someone told me one time it was 900 lbs but dont know if thats right. Its a healthy beast though, when I took it out the first time 15 years ago you could really feel the weight on the engine hoist. Ill have to look at the pan again but im almost sure that it is a rear sump. Looks like i will have to retrain myself on how to weld again. Its been quite a few years since Ive done it. Hope its like riding a bike.

Keep the ideas coming, going to be a little while until i have the money and garage space to do this.

Thanks again!
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:56 PM
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Oh and definitely replacing the whole front end of the pickup. Springs, bushings, etc. I have to get rid of the old drum brakes and go to disk. Having that much engine in that pickup is going to require some stopping power. The '67 is the first year of that body style so yes, that is the lower cab.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:27 PM
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Your 383 will have a centre sump and weigh about 625 lbs. More than a sbc but less than a bbc.
Did you know you can bolt the whole front suspension from a 71-87 chev truck on to your frame.
Easy way to get discs. You'll need to swap the rearend or axles to get the same 5 bolt wheels to match the front though.
Here's a link for motor dimensions to compare.
Popular American V8 Engine Dimensions
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:22 PM
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Yes, had heard that the front end suspension would bolt right in. There are Camero parts that you can get but im sticking with truck parts. Especially if im going to go big block. I was going to switch the rear end anyway. The pickup was set up for work and has a low rear end in it so it will get a five bolt setup in the rear also. The pickup was my grandfathers who was a farmer and pulled a lot of things with it and the Chrysler was my grandmothers so marrying the two up is fitting.

Thanks for the link!
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karcrazy View Post
Yes, had heard that the front end suspension would bolt right in. There are Camero parts that you can get but im sticking with truck parts. Especially if im going to go big block. I was going to switch the rear end anyway. The pickup was set up for work and has a low rear end in it so it will get a five bolt setup in the rear also. The pickup was my grandfathers who was a farmer and pulled a lot of things with it and the Chrysler was my grandmothers so marrying the two up is fitting.

Thanks for the link!

go to the junkyard 1973-87 c-10 front end with engine crossmember bolt in..
get it all crossmember and the whole works.. (a arms,spindles,etc..)
then just change your outer tie rods for the 73-87 ones and it bolts in..
the 73-87 came with two different thickness rotors 1" standard 1 1/4" heavy duty.. keep that in mind when ordering rotors and clappers..

also the 73-87 front sway bar is a bolt in.. you just need to get the frame brackets when you get the bar..
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:42 PM
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here is what you'll need for the swaybar..
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWENUTS View Post
Your 383 will have a centre sump and weigh about 625 lbs. More than a sbc but less than a bbc.
Did you know you can bolt the whole front suspension from a 71-87 chev truck on to your frame.
Easy way to get discs. You'll need to swap the rearend or axles to get the same 5 bolt wheels to match the front though.
Here's a link for motor dimensions to compare.
Popular American V8 Engine Dimensions
the 71-72 is different set up than the 73-87 the 71/2 uses grease able a arm bushings/bearings, the 73 up uses rubber bushings.
the 71-2 disc set up is different than the 73-87
all bolt in..
all are 5 on 5 lug pattern.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:50 PM
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Just a couple of thoughts from an old guy who has been there, done that.

Get a contractor's plumb bob and some chalk that will write on your concrete surface you'll be working on. That's how to do all the measurements, drop the plumb bob from point to point, make a mark on the concrete and measure with a rule of T-square. Get yourself an angle finder and a couple of good levels, a short one and a long one.

Chock the truck up at ride height. Take the front wheels/tires off and put jackstands under the frame at the height the truck will be at when finished. Put the motor in with the intake manifold in place. Put the level on the carb pad of the manifold and level it front to rear and side to side. The motor and trans will be installed at a down angle when you do this, usually 2-3 degrees.

You can move the motor front to rear as far as you want to either way to make things fit. You can also move it side to side either way as far as you need to, so long as you keep the crankshaft centerline perpendicular to the rear axle centerline and watch for transmission clearance at the floorpan tunnel. Don't be afraid to axe some sheetmetal out of the way to make it fit. You can use scraps and weld it back together later. This is particularly true of headers. NOTHING should get in the way of your headers. Axe out anything that is in the way. Never hack up the headers.

Pay attention to service items like mechanical fuel pumps, oil filters, etc. Don't box them in so that you can't get to them to change them later.
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:24 AM
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Excellent advice! I actually was going to start looking up how to set an engine and tranny when customizing things. The pickup has a fuel tank that is in the cab right now so that is coming out and Ill put a fuel tank under the bed. I think I am going to go with an electric fuel pump on this. When I pull the Mopar out in the next month or two, I am going to replace the points/coil setup and put in electronic too. Cant believe that I wanted to stick with points when I put it back in after rebuilding it.

So, I want to have the radiator im going to use and fan in place too when I measure things up right? I believe that I am going to get one of those aluminum super cool radiators to make sure nothing gets hot.
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