[Fastest65]

Hey there
have 67 3/4 ton 4x4. I have eliminated all the old axles, tranny, t-case
etc.. I converted to a dana 44 disk brake, sm465/np205, 14 bolt, new PS
box, 4" lift, new column, dual shock setup in front, fresh alignment.
This thing is so hard to drive and keep straight I am afraid to take her on the freeway. I purchased front swaybar unit that I am going to rerto fit soon.
any ideas on how to solve and tighten up the steering on this thing please?
Have all this time, money and aggrevation into this thing now I don't like to drive it because it is too hard to keep betwen the lines or ditches.
Help please??
Thanks everyone.

[speedbump]

It's hard to tell you where to start but there's an adjustment screw and lock nut on top of the gearbox. Loosening the jam nut and turning the screw in (CW I think) will push the sector shaft further into the worm gear and tighten up the slop if that's the problem. If it's a manual, most of those boxes are worn out. I think a Blazer or 4x4 PU power box will bolt in with very little hassle and that's what I would do. factory brackets and PS pump and a crank pulley from the same app will finish the job. Factory PS hoses for a 72 4x4 should also work. Also check the tie rod ends and the drag link ends that go from the pittman arm to the d/s spindle. Another thing that many don't check is wheel bearings. Those double nut 4x4 adjusters will come loose. Another thing is check the pre load sleeve on the upper ball joint at the spindle. Wear and lack of pre-load will make it road crazy. The upper and lower ball joints can be replaced without serious special tools. Some of this stuff should have been checked by the alignment shop when that was done, so it's hard to tell you what to check.

[Fastest65]

In reading what you wrote I am leaning towards the balljoints.
I will have to get a shop to do the ball joint job and hope they know what they are doing with regards to "preload" If I knew more about how to do it I would.
Thanks