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1968 Dodge Charger Cheap Durable Paint Job
I got a 68 charger that I had body work done on and coated in a primer/sealer in 1995.It has been outside ever since then and surprisingly held up with only a few surface rust spots which I would sand and rattle can prime.I need to put lower quarters and rear valance on it because the bondo bubbles out after all these years.
What i'm looking to do,for now is fix the bubbled out stuff with fiberglass and smooth it out for paint. I'm on a very tight budget and I want to know what type of satin black paint is cheap and durable to gas,oil typical automotive mishaps from wrenching on your car.I just want to get this thing in paint so it don't surface rust anymore from the primer thinning out caused by weather. I'm going to be painting this outside and i'm supposed to pickup a matco gravity paint gun today for $35 I've only painted with rattle cans never a paint gun.Any help will be great. |
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Post some pics of your Charger. Always nice to see another Charger.
I wouldn't use fiberglass over metal and it will eventually crack. You can get 2K flat black/satin black paint that will last a while. |
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Its just going to be a temp paint job until I can replace all the metal and a do a decent paint job.
heres a pic...i'll have to take a better one in the light. http://img810.imageshack.us/i/gedc0092.jpg/ |
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You should join www.dodgecharger.com if you haven't already. Lots of infomation there
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I think I made an account there a long time ago....I just joined here for paint help....Everything else with the charger I know inside and out.
I've done body work just never used a paint gun.Always used rattle cans. |
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There's quite a few knowledgeable members on there as far as bodywork/paint goes, myself included. I'm restoring mine as we speak. It's been a long project. I also rattle canned it with flat black when I got it (I was a student with very low income) Now I'm doing it the right way.
I would strip it down, get rid of all the rust and epoxy primer it until you are ready to paint it. |
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I got my own sandblasting business in the summers and I plan on sandblasting the whole car once we get a garage built.I'm just looking to block it out,fiberglass the bubbled bondo and shoot paint on it just to protect it being outside.The engine,tranny and rear are rebuilt in it with not even 1 mile on it.I plan on driving it this summer before I tear it all down to do everything right.
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Back when I had the car's body work done,everything was solid except the lower quarters below the body line.Inside the trunk on the back of the quarters I used under coat to protect it.Like I said this only only a temporary cheap solution to make it look half decent through summer and protect the car.
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You can get lower quarter patch panels. This is common rust spot on these, I had to do it to mine.
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Were did you get your lower quarter's and how much?
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I got mine on ebay. Anywhere from $130 to $170 depending on quality/thickness of the metal.
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AMD is where I want to get mine.Probably the best quality.But its a money thing right now.I'm getting ready to work on my front valance and get it painted so I can install it.If the rain holds up i'm gonna sandblast my front bumper so I can paint it satin black.I'm leaving the bumperettes chrome.The main bumper has the chrome chipping off.
My plans for the car when I do everything right is that burnt orange you see on the 2008 daytona pickup trucks,satin black hood and white R/T ralley stripes.I'm taking a old set of Crager SS's I have and painting the middle satin black and having hardly any chrome on my 383. |
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Goodmark has decent panels. You don't really need to go all out on patch panels, they're just that-patch panels.
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I just want it to fit right and be the right thickness.
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