[tknetwork]

Hi,
I just bought a 1968 Ford Galaxie xl Convertible with a factory 428 engine. The engine runs fine but has a terrible time shutting off when the engine is warm. ( i.e. runs backwards when hot.) I am looking for some direction to check to eliminate possibilities of what could be wrong.

[poncho62]

Probably just needs a good tune up, carb cleaned out etc.........

[oldbogie]

Originally Posted by tknetwork

Hi,
I just bought a 1968 Ford Galaxie xl Convertible with a factory 428 engine. The engine runs fine but has a terrible time shutting off when the engine is warm. ( i.e. runs backwards when hot.) I am looking for some direction to check to eliminate possibilities of what could be wrong.

There are anti-diesel solenoids made that move the throttle to idle position when the key switch is turned on and allow the throttles to completely close when the switch is moved to off.

Run-on was a common problem with early emission engines. You could in the immediate term reduce the idle speed to as low as it will go without stalling. If you can get to the idle mixture screws on the carb, richen them a little, this will probably pick up the idle speed allowing a further closure of the throttle blades. If it has the vacuum retard with vacuum advance on the distributor, plug the retard side vacuum line and recalibrate the timing with about 5 to 8 degrees base timing.

Also consider that a 68 may have timing gear and chain wear issues which may need correction to get the cam back in time if this is the case.

Bogie

[tknetwork]

Thank You for your information! Appreciate it.

[techinspector1]

Along with the excellent answers you have received, I'll throw in a mostly unknown procedure.

It may be that this motor has not been rebuilt since it was new. If that is the case, it may still have TEL deposits in the combustion chamber and on the piston crown because when this motor was new, that's what was in the fuel at that time. These deposits can glow red-hot for a little while after the key is turned off and act as little glow-plugs.

What I have done in the past to remove these problem-causing deposits is to take the vehicle to a remote location, along with a buddy and a gallon of water. You don't want to do this in town because of the junk you're going to deposit into the air and the grief you'd get from the authorities.

Put your buddy in the driver's seat. Remove the air cleaner. Crank the motor. Moving slowly from side to side to insure that you get water down both primary throttle bores, pour the water slowly into the motor (a water stream about the size of a drinking straw or a little smaller will work ok). The water will try to kill the motor. That's where your buddy comes in. He will modulate the throttle to keep the motor running, increasing or decreasing revs to keep up with you and prevent the motor from stalling.

You will not believe the crud that comes out the tailpipe(s) as your motor is being "steam-cleaned".

I have never used the product Sea Foam, but it may be something that you want to look into also.

[LATECH]

Sea foam works very well.I was very sceptical about it .I figured it was a name and a gimmick. It will clean out your carbon for sure(IMO) .I know that it does wonders for injectors and intake valves.I have used it for 7 or 8 years now for various things. I now consider it to be part of a tune up along with a fuel filter change.

[tknetwork]

Thank You techinspector1 and latech as this car was previously owned by a 90 year old man and only driven 5000 miles the last 35 years. Your input sounds very feasible and appreciate your response greatly.