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-   -   1968 Mustang Coupe - door skins (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/1968-mustang-coupe-door-skins-187589.html)

geeky2 11-13-2010 01:26 PM

1968 Mustang Coupe - door skins
 
Hello all,

can anyone suggest a good source for door skins for a 1968 Mustang coupe?

FYI: in a previous post of mine, i asked about a source for a RH / PS inner fender apron. in the replies that i got back (which were really great!) - someone suggested NPD (http://nationalpartsdepot.com/), which i will use as a source for the apron.

thank you for any and all suggestions.

thank you
mark

Chad.s 11-13-2010 09:58 PM

Just looked on goodmark site and they show shells for $309.00 but I don't see skins on the site.

MARTINSR 11-14-2010 09:39 AM

But of course I would be thinking long and hard about NOT changing the skin but repairing yours. Door skins are tough for many professional bodymen, for a first timer it can be a disaster. And this is with quality OEM skins, if we are talking about your typical aftermarket made in China junk, it can be maddening for anyone!

It may be the best choice, but look at it long and hard first. What is the reason you want to change the skin?

If you do decide to go with the skin, here is a little tutorial to door skins. "Basics of Basics" Door skins

Brian

geeky2 11-14-2010 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MARTINSR
It may be the best choice, but look at it long and hard first. What is the reason you want to change the skin?
Brian

hello

one door is wavy. and the other door has quite a bit of bondo in it.

both doors "structurally" are very sound, eg NO rust spots in or out (that i can tell) i have the glass pulled from the doors.

i am really glad i asked some questions up here. i had gotten the impression from other (on-line) sources that doing this in an 68 Mustang Coupe was pretty easy?

1) i suppose i could take the doors to a shop and have them fix the existing doors or put skins on them or

2) i could buy new door shells. i have checked the costs on these. they look to be ~350.00 per shell.

my goals for the car are pretty simple. learn / do as much as i can but also have the car look fairly decent when i am done. i have started the process by completely stripping the car to metal and putting it on a rotisserie.

thank you
mark




i suppose i could take the doors an

MARTINSR 11-14-2010 10:16 AM

If you have structurally sound doors and they are only wavy and have bondo on them, there is NO WAY IN HELL I would change to Chinese repros!

If you think that the Chinese repros won't be wavy and need filler you are mistaken, if you want them nice that is. They will NOT fit as good as yours, the window regulator and latch won't bolt in as nice as yours, there is NOTHING that works on that Mustang like the original parts, stick with them.

You would be surprised to find that many times "waves" in bodies and "lots of bondo" is there because of poor repairs were done on it.

Let's get this straight, (pardon the pun) the waves and lots of bondo are a result of poor repairs NOT doors in poor condition.
There is a VERY, VERY good chance now that you striped the paint and fillers off those doors they are much straighter than they were before you stripped them!

They will then need a little filler here or there or maybe a thin skim coat over the entire door, but either way they are STILL way better than Chinese repro doors!

Brian

MARTINSR 11-14-2010 10:19 AM

Now that they are stripped do you see an obvious damage? Or was it just low spots and funkies that were covered with bondo?

Brian

geeky2 11-14-2010 10:25 AM

hello martin,

thank you VERY MUCH for the info. i GET your message ;)

thank you
mark

Rag top bird 11-14-2010 05:30 PM

I would have to agree with MARTINSR I would use the doors you have the aftermarket ones dont fit like OEM doors and in most cases you have to bend and hammer then you still end up using filler

readdirections 11-15-2010 08:19 AM

68 mustang door skins
 
I am in total agreement I would keep the original. I had rust holes in my 68 fastback doors. I cut a 3 1/2" to 4" strip out across the bottom of my doors and weld in universal door bottom metal. If i had a sheet metal brake I would have made my own. aftermarket panels can't compare to the original. Now this may sound funny, but when I would cut out rust from a car and throw the rusted metal on the floor it had a sound of a slight ring, but when I trimmed an aftermarket panel and throw the trimmings on the floor it was a dead sound, the original metal was stronger than the aftermarket. I bought full floorboard panels for my 68, after getting them ,I decided not to use them because of the cheapness, instead I used 16 gauge metal. If your doors are rust free, there is no way you should replace them. If you want to repair them yourself find a good body man get all the info you can , give it a try and take the doors to him to check out. The way I learned, I hung out at a body shop after school and they let me do little things like clean up, then sanding and taping. I did this all free just to learn. My first repair was a 57 chevy door took 3 days , now it would take me 45 minutes to repair that same dent.

Sick467 11-17-2010 10:50 AM

Good Adivice Given,

+1 on repairing the doors if possible. I have found that building a 67 Mustang from oversees parts is very challenging. EVERY part needs masaging and some just aren't right.

Noel


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