[WDCreech]

YS was also used for '69 GTO engines. Jim may have mistyped that '68. If it were a factory or dealer replacement block, it would have been stamped SR instead of YH.

Bill

[cobalt327]

I think "'68" might have just been a typo...

[Rosylab]

I didn't realize the 2bbl heads were 45. That makes me feel a lot better because the numbers cast into these heads are 62 and dated coded C049(march 4,1969) for the left bank and C059(March 5, 1969) for the right. Just for the record, the intake manifold has a casting number of 9794234 and date coded C119(March 11, 1969). The Quadrajet's PN is 7029262 with a number 3271 stamped underneath the PN. THe block is definitely stamped YS with a production number of 0599899 above that. I had originally thought(hoped) that someone might have replaced a blown rear end with an COMPLETE USED rear end assembly rather than replace the set of gears but than I thought, who would do such a ***** thing. Especially one with 2.56 gears!!! When I could not find the partial VIN on the block where all the literature says it should be I started second guessing myself about that rear end assembly.

[Mr. P-Body]

My "bad" on the '68 vs. '69. I SAW "9" , but READ "8"... 62s ARE '69 350 HP 400 heads with auto trans (48s w/manual). Good heads for a mild street build.

The physical description of the car certainly "sounds" '69 (tail light/bumper comment). Even better! No "His and Her's", though. The '69 has the good factory "ratchet" shifter. Pull it into "manual low", hold it to the right while shifting, and get only one gear at a time (no neutral mistakes).

The "downside" to the 350 HP engine is the 10.5:1 static compression. Too high, WILL detonate on 93 octane. "Dish" the pistons 3 1 /2" diameter, .100" deep. 9:1, good to go. How "far" do you want to take it for power?

The carb is the "correct" carb for a 350 HP 400 w/auto trans, '69. Plenty of good Q-Jet "knowledge" around, so no need for anything else unless you're going MUCH "faster". I can point you to a couple Q-Jet specialists.

I can also point you to the good Pontiac "supply houses". The resto people that sell all brands, MAY send you Chevelle parts 'cuz they "fit". Ames or Performance Years deal STRICTLY with Pontiacs.

Jim

[Rosylab]

Ya Jim . If I'd thought about your last posting about the "68" instead of "69" I would have realized it was a typo. My fingers were faster than my brain on that one. I was expecting detonation when I first drove it home as the seller, when asked, told me he had been running cheapest grade discount gas. But it didn't!!!
Since then, I've been putting in 89 octane and it runs great--no pinging or anything. Makes you wonder if someones already done what you suggest . Just one more mystery.
As mentioned previously,this is going to be just a summer driver.Just trying to get it to the point where it's safe, reliable and clean(i.e. pretty to look at)---- not going to take it very far as power upgrades are concerned. Later this year am planning to do a disc brake conversion(it's a bear to stop) and freshen up the front suspension at the same time . Next year some new paint and maybe some new wheels and tires. I've already got lots of catalogs (Ames,PST,NPD,Legendary,Ames,OPGI, Year One, Jegs and CPP--did I leave anyone out?). Great fun reading. The interior is pretty well re-done already except for trying to find a new radio that will accept my ipod and fit the dash without butchering it. I do appreciate your offer for help (as well as everyone else's who've posted) and may take you up on some of it as I get further into this thing.

[WDCreech]

Originally Posted by Rosylab

I've already got lots of catalogs (Ames,PST,NPD,Legendary,Ames,OPGI, Year One, Jegs and CPP--did I leave anyone out?).

How about Performance Years - Your #1 Source for GTO, Firebird, and Classic Pontiac Parts and Accessories Go to their tech forums while you are there.

[Rosylab]

Thanks Bill. I will.

[Mr. P-Body]

Yup. Your best "bet" is to stick with Ames and PY. Bill knows his Pontiacs, too.

Our "main" business is the 400 "resto-motor". A close second are the 461 "strokers". It's easy enough to get the 350-plus HP "back" from dropping the compression, and IMO, a GTO should ALWAYS run like a GTO...(:-

There is the phenomina known as "inaudible detonation". Many engineers SWEAR it doesn't exist. Maybe. Maybe not. I know I've torn down dozens of 389s and 400s where the owner said the same thing, not a sound. But the rings fell off in pieces and some of the pistons were burned badly at the land. Contrary to popular belief, you can't "cheat" by retarding the timing. IF "spark knock" is your problem, of course, changing the timng WILL help. Detonation is another animal entirely. Nothing short of adequate octane will "cure" detonation.

Not saying yours is afflicted, just be "on gaurd".

Welcome to the high-class muscle car crowd! (GTO didn't earn its reputation from LOSING....)

Jim

[Rosylab]

I was thinking about this detonation thing. The 89 octane I've been using is Chevron's mid-grade. They have two grades higher yet--I believe they are 91 and 93 (I'll doubled check next time I'm there). I guess using either on of these would solve the potential problem. I'll just need a box full of cash every time it's fill up time. Of course as I was told by a friend --"you don't buy a car like this to save gas". I guess that's true for money as well.

[Bryan59EC]

I think Fremont ONLY stamped the 66/67 SS396 engines

Nothing else got a stamp

[Rosylab]

I was just going with the two letter code (BF )on my Data Plate on the cowling under the hood said. I understand BF indicates Fremont.